Thermostat question....
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New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Miami , FL
Thermostat question....
I dropped a 429 into a 73 F250...done a bunch of work under the hood , etc..etc..blah blah blah. I live in Miami FL where it is ALWAYS hot. Do I go without a thermostat or go with a 180 degree stat? I hear no stat , some people say go with stat,etc....
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Indiana
Originally Posted by Robert305
I dropped a 429 into a 73 F250...done a bunch of work under the hood , etc..etc..blah blah blah. I live in Miami FL where it is ALWAYS hot. Do I go without a thermostat or go with a 180 degree stat? I hear no stat , some people say go with stat,etc....
Thanks
Rob
Thanks
Rob
Do not run without a thermostat.
Do you have this going on the street and are having heating problems or just speculating on what to do before hand?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Visalia, CA
I installed a 160 degree stat(from NAPA) in both my FE and 460 powered trucks. The stats work great and the FE powered truck lived in Phoenix for 4 years.
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From: House Springs, MO
I've got a 460 in my mudder, and was considering taking out the thermostat. Why do you recommend not removing it completely? Because of the unrestrained flow, and if it's flowing to fast, the water isn't able to take the heat from the engine to the radiator to open air as well as if the water was flowing slower?
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Posting Guru
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From: Indiana
Originally Posted by momudder720
I've got a 460 in my mudder, and was considering taking out the thermostat. Why do you recommend not removing it completely? Because of the unrestrained flow, and if it's flowing to fast, the water isn't able to take the heat from the engine to the radiator to open air as well as if the water was flowing slower?
Yes, this is correct.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Engines have an optimum operating temperature for best performance. Also, cold engines build sludge, wear early, and suffer on power because of more friction. For that reason, I don't even recommend a 160 stat. 180 is the coolest I would run.
I don't know how all this misinformation about taking out the thermostat ever got started. If the engine would do better without it, the factory would never have put it in to begin with.
I don't know how all this misinformation about taking out the thermostat ever got started. If the engine would do better without it, the factory would never have put it in to begin with.
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From: Everett, Wa
[QUOTE=scroob]Engines have an optimum operating temperature for best performance. Also, cold engines build sludge, wear early, and suffer on power because of more friction. For that reason, I don't even recommend a 160 stat. 180 is the coolest I would run.[QUOTE]
I tend to agree for a stock application. But everything you point out is not a problem for todays oils. Syn's will flow just fine almost regardless of temp. The worse thing that happens is you put in to high a stat and cause detination. There are apps where you run a 160 or granade the engine.
The real reason for running a stat is to eliminate a variable when tuning an engine. If the engine will not run a steady temp you have no hope of getting a stable tune on it. You can tune it for 160 or you can tune it for 220 but you really can't tune it correctly for both.
I tend to agree for a stock application. But everything you point out is not a problem for todays oils. Syn's will flow just fine almost regardless of temp. The worse thing that happens is you put in to high a stat and cause detination. There are apps where you run a 160 or granade the engine.
The real reason for running a stat is to eliminate a variable when tuning an engine. If the engine will not run a steady temp you have no hope of getting a stable tune on it. You can tune it for 160 or you can tune it for 220 but you really can't tune it correctly for both.
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From: Ocean Park WA
At a Minimum put a 160, and if you have EFI got run the 180. No stat, no restriction, increased fluid velocity (speed), no heat transfer (laws of thermodynamics), overheating, end result $$$$$. I've actually seen the lower radiator hose (pump suction) collapse under the vacume at 1800 RPM. The racecars we ran back in Arkansas had no stat but we had a 1" restrictor in it to slow the flow and keep from overheating.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 837
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From: Minnesota
Here's a link to a must read article I found years ago. Click on the "Cooling Systems" button. It opens a pdf file. If you don't have acrobat reader on your computer it can be downloaded free.
I looked at a lot of different information before I read this one. It's really the best explanation of the cooling process, how it works and why you don't want to run without a thermostat. It also discusses "hi-flow" and reverse flow systems.
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeA...tech/index.cfm
I looked at a lot of different information before I read this one. It's really the best explanation of the cooling process, how it works and why you don't want to run without a thermostat. It also discusses "hi-flow" and reverse flow systems.
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeA...tech/index.cfm
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From: House Springs, MO
Well, every time we take out the big mudder, it gets hot real quick; I know, I know, any number of things. We routed the radiator behind the cab and are running 3/4 heater hose from the engiune back to the rad and back to then engine. I think that's restriction enough. Not convinced at all that the stat is the problem, I think it's more a matter of getting a bigger electric fan. I know it's taking heat from the engine because the radiator get's purty dang warm. Also thinkin of going with a HUGE radiator, likely one from a dump truck or other large piece of equipment.
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From: Ocean Park WA
You're probably on the right track with this on the mudder. The larger radiator gives the coolant a chance to slow down and have the heat removed, but I would say go to a 1 to 1&1/2water lines from the engine to the radiator and the return as you have to much restriction especially on the suction side.