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[updated:LAST EDITED ON 14-Dec-02 AT 08:00 PM (EST)]my q is i do use four wheel anytime i can (usually have no choise either) so i leave my manual hubs locked. usually my truck stays in town. not more than 30 of 40 miles a day but some peaple seem to think that its hard on the axles. and some see no reason not to do this. i know it kills my gas milage (2 miles to the gallon) but if its not doing any mech damage i see no reason to get out in cold on the highway just to lock the hubs for an icy road. id like to know what you guys think.
also i gave $1100 fur the truck and it sat for eight months due to lack of money but after about $200 its on the road roaring again. think i got a good deal or got ripped off?
I can't answer your first question as I'm sort of a newbie when it comes to 4x4s but i can tell you that 1100 for a B2 in good shape is a good deal. I paid 2300 for my 87 B2 with 126k miles, a good body & interier and a healthy motor & tranny and I consider it to be one of my better purchases. I seriously can't think of anything about these little trucks that I don't like.
I think you got a good deal if it is in good shape, especially if you live where you need 4x4!
I have always left the hubs locked during winter on my BIIs. Does not hurt a thing as long as your front axleshaft UJs are lubed well or the "lifetime" UJs still have good rubber seals.
Sometimes hubs "freeze" or get hard to turn in extreme cold or on icy days, better to have them locked in.
well shes got a lil rust on her and a knocking motor but doesn't seem to have anything major wrong. interior is in excellent cond trans is the same. but whoever had it had tried to wire work and shorted out most everything. so far ive redone the ignition lights stereo gauges and fuel. shocks are bad though. myne dont have uvs on it btw. its got the cv joints all through. ive already pulled my hubs and greased the bearing (bone dry) but there wasnt anything in their that shouldnt be and the bearings wernt bad. my cvs seem to be in rather good shape to. had to rebuild my brakes though. right now ive got fix my heater. i had used some of that alumiseal crap in it cause of a leaky rad and it plugged my core so if got to pull it and flush &$%@# out of it. tires have never been good on it and as usuall they just get worse. so right now my main concern is heat. or atleast and electric defroster. sommer hits and im graveyard searchin for a fuel sending unit and buying a tach. its one of those wiring is good tach is fried deals. then get a welder and start doing so body work on it and patch the floor board up. just one spot where shes gotton some rust but not major. redo the interior in vynal paint it black and get a rear wiper arm and thatll take care of her.
If it is on the driver's side, running front to back, it mostly likely is the end result of rust/body flex/stress. Make sure your body mounts are good or it will just happen all over again. One thing you could do is on the front body mount under the driver's foot, drill a hole through the plate so water can make it out of the floor pan area to the ground through the bodymount hole. 1/8 should do?
I am pretty sure this is why this area goes before any other. Because water gets trapped under the rug area with no where to go. It does not happen on the pass. side because it gets so hot from the cat. converter, plus, they put that thick sound material on the pass. side that prevents water from resting directly on the floor. At least on the XLT models.
ya mynes an xlt. my body mount bushings could be in better shape but fixable. it dont run all the way back. just about back to the seat mount. write where i plant my muddy and wet shoes to.id like to pull the interior and patch it uup then have the floor rhino coated before i put my carpet back in. wonder howd thatd look for paint?
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