Locked hubs?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Locked hubs?
Is there any reason that I can not just leave my front hubs locked all the time and just leave it in 2wd most of the time?
I would like to get some aftermarket rims but I do not want that hub lock sticking out.
I would like to get some aftermarket rims but I do not want that hub lock sticking out.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,742
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From: UT
It's not the usual reason people ask this question, but yes you can do it if you want. In your case, would you leave the lockout hub on, and just put it behind a hub cap, or will you need to eliminate the lockout completely?
The side effects of leaving the hubs locked with the t-case in 2H are minor. Slight increase in wear of the front drivetrain components, small decrease in gas mileage (takes some power to spin the front drivetrain), a slight increase in noise, a slightly heavier feel in the steering.
The side effects of leaving the hubs locked with the t-case in 2H are minor. Slight increase in wear of the front drivetrain components, small decrease in gas mileage (takes some power to spin the front drivetrain), a slight increase in noise, a slightly heavier feel in the steering.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
The usual reason is because they get tired of getting out every single time they shift out of 4WD to unlock the hubs. They want to know if, like in the winter, you are frequently shifting back and forth from 2WD to 4WD if it's OK to leave the hubs locked during those stretches when you're in 2WD. The answer, as mentioned, is yes, it's ok. I've heard of some people in places where they get a lot of snow and snow removal isn't always available, who will lock their hubs in October/November and leave them locked until March.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Bixby, OK
Does anybody know about switching to a stronger automatic locking hubs? I would get manual's but I haven't checked on how much it would cost for me, I've seen others that have the kits and they were wanting like $300 for it. Have you guys heard of any better prices? Thanks for any info, I don't want to post a new thread just for a couple answers.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
I paid ~$250 for a set of milemarkers from Autozone for the D35 in my Explorer; I think the D28 manual hubs would be about the same. Warns are normally a little more.
Another possibility, though you never know if you'll get lucky enough to find one, is to get a set from the junkyard. They are sometimes available, since BII's/Rangers of that vintage often came with manual hubs from the factory (mine did).
Bottom line is: even at $300, it would almost certainly be cheaper to put manual hubs on than to buy one autohub, especially if you want an autohub that is stronger than stock (not even sure if such a thing exists).
Another possibility, though you never know if you'll get lucky enough to find one, is to get a set from the junkyard. They are sometimes available, since BII's/Rangers of that vintage often came with manual hubs from the factory (mine did).
Bottom line is: even at $300, it would almost certainly be cheaper to put manual hubs on than to buy one autohub, especially if you want an autohub that is stronger than stock (not even sure if such a thing exists).
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Bixby, OK
I'm not really sure how strong they are, they turn my tires well when I decide to go offroad. I have another question tho, when I have 4x4 engaged, it seems to hop or something when I turn the wheel, I know it's not rubbing, it only does it with 4x4 engaged, and it makes it hard to turn, what causes this? Thanks
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UT
That sounds normal for a part time 4WD system. Basically, the front and rear driveshafts are locked together with no mechanical means of differentiation. The wheel hop while turning is in response to the tension (often called "windup") that is created. In low traction situations, the wheels can slip enough that it's not a real problem (other than the observed understeer). Under high traction conditions (pavement), the wheels may not be the first to slip. Something else (like a u-joint, axleshaft, etc) will be the first to give (ie break). There's a decent article at www.howstuffworks.com about 4WD systems.