2000 F150 XLT ext. cab 4x4 /w 5.4 72,120 miles for $14,900

or
2003 Exactly the same thing with 27,799 miles for $19,500

I wanted to keep payments low due to mortgage and $500/ mo car payment. I was going to waite until I get the car payed off but my 83 Ranger is getting to end of life and I rather see it go to someone else then the junk yard. My big 84' Bronco is doing good but with no A/C and re-rusting since all the body work I've done. The big getter is the 8MPG and the fact that I moved 22 miles away from work so I hardly ever use the thing any more.

Is the $5,000 extra worth the lower miles and newer model year? Or am I safe with 00 since my understanding is the 5.4 is good for 3 to 400,00 miles.


Also I looked up registration between F150 and F250 and found no difference here in Iowa, but how about insurance between the two.

I'm under the impression the F150 is more but not certain.


THANX
jpn

 

If the 2000 has had all the maintance done and most of those miles are highway miles, thats a good deal. But the 2003 would still have some warranty coverage. I don't know about the 5.4 being good for 400k miles, where did you get that info? If the money isn't that big an issue, I would go with the 2003.

 

Its a difference of $90 a month. Its not that I can't afford it at all but I just know if I want to stay poor again for two years until the car is paid off..... The sick thing is my car "Grand Prix GTP /w HO Mods", my baby, was bought brand new in '01 and just hit 21000 and I'm looking at an 03 truck with 28000.


Ok 400K is a little high!!! The V10's and diesels are supposedly able to get close to that....

Are either of those two better or equivelent for daily driving VS. longevity?

I don't pull anything right now but my dad has a tandem flat bed trailer with beafey axles that can haul 2000+ gal water tank for farm chemicals or a small tractor that I would't mind barrowing if I had to!!!

 

20k miles > 72k miles

 

i would take the 03...but run a car fax on both and remember you could always talk the price down atleast another 2k...

 

I think that the '00 is priced a tad high, but the '03 looks somewhat ok to me, price wise.

Have you checked these rigs out on Kelly Blue book and other sites?

I've seen the 5.4L have as much as 320,000 mi on it, but most I see have lasted out to the 200k range with proper maint.

Sounds like you need a truck, but does it have to be a full size?

There are a lot of newer Rangers out there that can be had reasonably and wont kill your pocket book.

Personally, I wouldnt be scared of the '00 if it had regular maint.

 

I'm going at leat a 150. Being 6'1" I've grown tired of being a sardine, to work and back, every day in my current ranger!!! But yea I'd like something big enough to haul drywall 2x4 etc when I get around to finishing my basement and pull grain wagons etc. on the farm when Dad calls me up for harvest. And a 150 should just be big enough to haul a car,tractor, etc on Dads flatbed trailer on a rare occasion.

I was originally thinking F250 with the impression the insurance would be cheaper due to the Farm comm. but I'lll have to verify yet. I rather put a few $ extra in gas into my vehicle than pay more to the insurance co...


How true to real world are those Texas trucks on e-bay???

They seem similarly priced to dealers, most are dealers, but the road "acid" they use here in the winter is tough on the undercarriage unless you have it under coated. I was leaning that way, get it up here and have it undercoated but the $1000 down for something I haven't kicked the tires on bugs me.....

 

What does "Car Fax" really tell you?
And how does Car Fax get their information?
Just curious...

 

Are the gear ratios the same or different? If you are gonna pull big trailer, like a tractor on a car hauler, with these trucks, a 3.55 gear ratio is not going to like the pull. If one of these has a 3.73 with the 5.4L, it would be a better tow vehicle. I had a 2000, and it might have been a Monday or Friday truck, but it had a 3.55 gear (and was a 4x4) AND would not pull it's way out of a sack. I traded it (and lots more money) for a 2002, same engine, but with the 3.73 gearing (also a 4X4) and have been a lot happier. Just my .02

 

Didn't realize that small of a ratio difference would do that.!!!
I'm almost locked in on the 03' Red one. The sales monkeys are a PITA to work with, pushy. If it wasnt for the price I wouldn't even talk to them.

Took it for a drive and it is NICE compared to my Ranger or Bronco in handling and suspension. It had a couple of scratches I didn't care for but its used. The rest was very clean.


Is there a way to tell the gear ratio by looking on the tag on the rear diff?

The sales monkey said 3.73, but you don't know what to believe from them guys!!!

What kind of HP/TRQ are the 03's rated at?

What signifies it has the sport package?
"
I'm not familiar with the sports package on a F-150 on the 03's. It an option in kbb.com.

THANX
jpn

 

Sports package is slightly better than XL, you get color matched bumbers and of couse the SPORT sticker on the side of the bed, not sure if it upgrades the interior.
Axle code/Gear ratio should be on the door sticker:
18 = 3.08 non-LS
19=3.55 non -LS
B6= 3.73 LS
H9=3.55 LS

 

I thought the 00 is priced high too. A friend just sold a 98 4x4 5.4 flareside all options with just over 100k for $8200. I traded in a 00 XL 4.6 cd, auto, cruise/tilt with 107k for $7000. I'd shop around.

 

Well I'm the owner of a red F-150 styleside supercab 4x4!!!!!!

The only negative on the carfax I ran was it was a rental in a near by city.
The only abuse I found was a couple of scratches by the front bumper and by the filler neck. The rest is mint with a bed liner.

What octane should I be using?
With almost 30,000 miles can I switch to synthetic?
Is there anything I should switch out as far as fluids, trans filter, fuel filter, etc?
Is there anything I should check before the warranty is up, like signs of plugs ready to pop out and tie rod problems mentioned in other posts.
I have an AutoTAP so I can check power tran values...


THANX
jpn

 

If you don't know if it was used to tow, I would flush the trans fluid and filter. I hear the dealer (and maybe your local shop) actually flush the torque converter (get all the oil out of the system...I take mine in. Just my 2 cents.

 

Congrats Jeffman;

Yeah, I would pretty much change oil, tranny fluid, transfer case, and front diff. The rear diff came from Ford factory with synthetic. With almost 30K on the truck, it is prime for switching to synthetics. Lardman is correct that the torque converter should also be flushed. A lot of shops can do that for you, but they need a special flush and fill machine to do it. The tranny takes about 17 quarts, but you will use about 23 to do a flush. The filter should be changed, and you lose about 6 quarts when you do it, and it should be done after the flush and fill if you are going to go to synthetics. This is a bit costly if you go to any average shop, but if you can find one of the ones that specialize in flushing over to synthetics, they normally do a better job at a better rate, as they are also selling you the synthetic fluids. Your tranny filter should come from Ford, as the aftermarket ones don't fit well. If you change your oil to synthetic, make sure that you get an oil filter designed for that purpose. They filter a lot finer. Neo, Redline and Amsoil are in my opinion, the best of the synthetics. I think only Amsoil also has synthetic tranny fluid and gear lube. Your transfer case takes two quarts too. If you search these forums, you will find a discussion on tie rod ends. You should also have these checked in the newly decided by Ford methods. And finally, you should go out and enjoy that new truck!!!
Did the axle ratio come up a B6 on the door sticker of the truck?