When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
did ya'll forget about the old 6.9 sytle glow plug controller, the one WAY in the back that screws into the water jacket in the back of the block, this is why the 2 holes behind the air cleaner base seems to be vacant. i figured the best thing to do was leave that old style one there and put the new kind on it. they are really expensive, i guess the poor boy could get a regular starter solenoid and run 8 wires off of it. i used the horn button to actuate the glow plugs on my truck!! till i got the glowplug controller fixed and it only half-*** works now. before i changed my glowplugs, i just used a little snort of starting fluid just a little, no longer than 3/4 of a second. if this works every time, it is your glowlugs, if this does not seem to work at all, it is a fuel problem. look for any tiny leaks you may have. the smallest little tiny leak is just as bad as a big one. but you say the block heater hels, so i would try just a snort of starter fluid. too much will usually blow a head gasket, but not abused, works perfectly. you dont even need glowplugs and it fires up before the motor turns over good. if you get it right you'll know it, also if you get too much, you'll know it.
If you have lots of white smoke after long cranking it could be from your fuel lift pump leaking and draining into the crankcase. When you are cranking you are pumping the fuel back into the system. Fuel pump is about 30bucks. INjector pump I know is about 200$.
Dieseldan I have a hard starting 93 7.3 non-turbo it also has more white smoke then what im used to. It does not smoke the same all day but after warm up i do notice some. most during cold start. I am going to test glow plugs but I was thinking what a new injector pump is going to cost if needed. Any ideas would help Thanks donjette.
I can't remember of O have ever mentioned this but for anyone who wants to controll thier glowplugs manually, you can go get a set for a 5.7 Chev and they are said to be a direct fit. All that is needed it st swap the connectors on the harness to the spade terminals. In a manually controlled setup the 12 volt chev plugs are better the the 9 volt Ford ones.
are there threads with a little more discussion/info on this? seems a good way to go for all of us w/ pushbutton glowplugs.
If the light goes off really quick it means you have glowplugs that aren't working, if it isn't clicking then either the solenoid is bad or the controller is. I doubt there is a discussion on this, the only reason I know about it is because the Local Mavistar dealer told us about it when we were looking for a new controller.
So if the truck is hard starting and the relay keeps clicking numerous times it means the relay/controller is bad? Also on my drivers side glow plugs at the harness I'm only geting 1.6 volts on the end plug wire. Is this an indicator that the relay/controller is bad? I'm getting 6 volts on the passenger side.
Start checking wiring for bad connections and bad fusible links, the controller should click a few times after the ligh goes out, if its not then there is a problem. Start with the 2 big yellow or orange wires (battery power) then move on to the 2 brown ones that go to the glow plugs, check all the connections on the solenoid (controller) for corrosion etc. It seems like the controller is fine, its a wiring problem.