brake nightmares
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brake nightmares
my 89 had a bad flexiable line on the drivers's front. Had good strong brakes, just leaked a lot of fluid. Ended up replacing the entire caliper because the bleeder got mangeled when we tried to open it. The replacement caliper is off a 94 aero, went on and seemed to be fine. Bled it a bit until I got clear fluid, then put the wheel back on. From there on, my brakes have been horrible, mushy, down to the floor horrible. I was sure the replacement caliper needed more bleeding, but was unable to get to it because of my dad passing away. The other morning at work, I drove into a cul-de-sac and discovered I had no brakes to slow down with. I made it home with no more incidents and enough braking power to stop easy, but the pedal still went to the floor. Yesterday I bled that caliper with an entire jug of fluid, just to be sure, and didn't get anywhere. Everything was still very mushy and the pedal went to the floor, I even had another total loss of brake. Is there an internal difference in the calipers that could be causing this? Where should I start to correct this situation? Thanks for any help.
Jay
Jay
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not sure about the difference in calipers, but it sounds to me like you have a leak somewhere in the system. Is the fluid low? If not it and if it is bleed well you may have a leak in the internal seal in the master cylinder. if this leaks you won't nessarily have fluid on the outside of the master but you will have no pedal. I had this happen to my Pontiac Grand Prix that I owned before my aero.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: northwest
is it possible that while you had the bad leak that you leaked the resevoir totaly empty? if that is even a remote possibility than maybe you got air in all of the lines. I would suggest you bleed all four corners just to be sure.
if you dont have any leaks anywhere, the only other soft pedal problem I can think of is air in the lines. check em all.
if you dont have any leaks anywhere, the only other soft pedal problem I can think of is air in the lines. check em all.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Southern California
If your reservoir is empty while you're bleeding the brakes, you must bleed the master cylinder first before you bleed the other brake lines.
To bleed the master cylinder, buy some steel brake lines with the same fitting and put them on the brake cylinder, then bend the lines to fit the other ends inside the reservoir. Make sure those ends are submerged below the fluid level in the reservoir. Then depress the brake, hold it for a couple of seconds, and let go. Do that repeatedly until no more air is recirculated into the reservoir. Then put the original two brake lines back on, and bleed the four corners, from the furthest to the closest.
By the way, why would you want to mess with junkyard calipers. I bought the rebuilt ones with lifetime warranties from Autozone for only $20 per side.
Also, my condolences about your dad. I lost my dad to cancer last October, and it still hurts a year later.
Good luck and best regards
To bleed the master cylinder, buy some steel brake lines with the same fitting and put them on the brake cylinder, then bend the lines to fit the other ends inside the reservoir. Make sure those ends are submerged below the fluid level in the reservoir. Then depress the brake, hold it for a couple of seconds, and let go. Do that repeatedly until no more air is recirculated into the reservoir. Then put the original two brake lines back on, and bleed the four corners, from the furthest to the closest.
By the way, why would you want to mess with junkyard calipers. I bought the rebuilt ones with lifetime warranties from Autozone for only $20 per side.
Also, my condolences about your dad. I lost my dad to cancer last October, and it still hurts a year later.
Good luck and best regards
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thanks for the help, looks like I need to buy more fluid and do some more bleeding. I know at one time I did get the fluid level pretty low, so I'll bleed all four lines just to be sure.
<P>
I also didn't use a junkyard caliper, it was on a 94 I had sitting around for parts. It was easier to pull it, instead of driving 20 miles into town, or the 45 miles to the closest autozone.
<P>
I also didn't use a junkyard caliper, it was on a 94 I had sitting around for parts. It was easier to pull it, instead of driving 20 miles into town, or the 45 miles to the closest autozone.
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argh - anyone have any advice on getting the bleeder valve open? I sheared one straight off and rounded off another. There must be a secret to those !#@%@#!^^&*$ things
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,240
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From: Dallas, Texas
Use a extractor from snap-on to get it out. Why snap-on you ask? Cause they will not break off in there! If you ever had one break off you will have to use a cobalt bit to drill it out.
For rounded ones use battery cable pliers from Snap-on. Don't ask me why they just grip like hell. The more you push or pull the tighter they grab.
For rounded ones use battery cable pliers from Snap-on. Don't ask me why they just grip like hell. The more you push or pull the tighter they grab.
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Joe Kucinski
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Personally my opinion is that if you snap one bleeder or cant get one out to just buy a new caliper or wheel cylinder from a parts store. The snap-on tools will probably be more expensive than buying a whole new caliper.
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I found an online store for snap-on - http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/catalog.asp - which pliers and extractor are you referring to? Thanks.
<P>
BTW: I replaced both front calipers with new ones and new pads, bled the hell out of them and still have no pedal. Tomorrow I am replacing the rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Then I am going to use dynomite if that doesn't work.
<P>
BTW: I replaced both front calipers with new ones and new pads, bled the hell out of them and still have no pedal. Tomorrow I am replacing the rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Then I am going to use dynomite if that doesn't work.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,240
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From: Dallas, Texas
Here are the pliers
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=16342&group_ID=1 496&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Here is the extrator
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/Pro.a...e=snapon-store
If you see a truck pull his *** over. If not call them they will tell you his number in your area.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=16342&group_ID=1 496&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Here is the extrator
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/Pro.a...e=snapon-store
If you see a truck pull his *** over. If not call them they will tell you his number in your area.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 391
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From: brooksville, florida
to free off frozen brake line nuts, with a small hammer tap all around the nut also tap the brake line close to were it enters the nut, this usually works for me. It is a good idea to buy the special brake line nut wrench you can get from auto stores, this is a ring wrench with a cut in it so you can get it past the brake pipe and onto the nut, gets a much better grip on the nut.
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