codes,codes,and more f#!#codes
311,332,536,538, and 632. are any of these codes fixable by a home mechanic. actually im not a mechanic but i'll fidle around here and there. if not how much will i be looking at to get the problems fixed? please have good news.
332 - EGR valve opening not detected.
536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test.
538 - Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test.
632 - Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD).
Code 536 is there because you didn't press and release the brake pedal when it was required during the self-test...this is not a system fault...just press and release the brake pedal completely during your next self-test.
Code 538 is there because you didn't perform a wide open throttle test. For your next test, press and release your gas pedal to wide open throttle to get rid of this code.
Code 311 could be multiple things. Your wiring, sensors, vacuum valves, related vacuum lines, and/or your smog pump could be to blame. Broken or missing hoses for your thermactor system could be a factor as well. This system consists of your smog pump, air bypass valve, air (control) diverter valve, TAB solenoid, TAD solenoid, 2 check valves, and the related vacuum lines and wiring to these components.
Code 332 could also be a multitude of factors. This system consists of your EGR vacuum regulator, EGR valve, EGR position sensor, Air injector pipe (from your lower intake manifold to your EGR valve), and the related vacuum lines and wiring to these components. Check your EGR valve, EGR position sensor (on top of the EGR valve), and the EGR vacuum regulator for proper operation. Failure could be the result of related vacuum lines broken or blocked with debris, or related wiring for the EGR system.
Code 632 I have no idea. I don't have an E4OD transmission.
Last edited by genueix; Sep 18, 2004 at 06:02 PM.


