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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 08:37 PM
  #1  
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I'm new and have posted a few times with no response. Someone please answer this one. My 91 F150 4by4 auto 351W under a heavy load will 'buck'. Its big misses or fuel stavation, I"m guessing. This bucking is going to dislodge my fillings if I don't figure it out. I've done all the maintance, runs great except noted above. Thanks, Glenn
 
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 08:44 PM
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As I do not really know the answer, I feel the need to respond. I've having some missfiring issues with my truck as well. The more I read, the more I realize that I am not getting any responses to my questions because there are many things that could cause this. The things I am looking into: are you burnign any oil, indicating a leak, either in a (head) gasket or cylinder ring, is there too much slack in your timing chain, Are your electrical(ignition) components are good, any vacuum leaks. even spark plug wires being crossed could be the cause.

How many miles are on the truck? What tranny? I would get a Haynes manual, and a compression gauge, and read the troubleshooting chart, then follow the various tests they recommend. Or mabe someone else has been troubleshooting skills than I do.
 

Last edited by Demian; Sep 16, 2004 at 08:50 PM.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:43 PM
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my 90 f150 was bucking, drove me nutz, i replaced the egr valve and egr position sensor all has been well sence
 
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 10:42 PM
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Welcome to FTE.

I would start off by seeing if you can pull any codes. Go to www.fordfuelinjection.com and click on Getting codes.

 
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Old Sep 17, 2004 | 10:37 PM
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Thanks

Hello, I appreciate the response. My pickup has 75K on it and doesn't burn any oil. All the vac lines seem OK but how do you tell if the timing chain has any slack in it, I don't hear any noises? I have a AOD and I checked for codes, there are not any. Now the EGR sounds like a possible cause, I'll look in to that! Thanks again, Glenn
 

Last edited by oldbird1965; Sep 17, 2004 at 10:40 PM. Reason: add a little
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 10:04 AM
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You can put a socket and a breaker bar (or ratchet would work fine too) on the big bolt on the crank pulley/harmonic damper. Then take the distributor off, turn the engine with the ratchet until it gets to top dead center mark on the damper. Then turn the engine the opposite direction until you see the rotor just start to move. Note the number of degrees the crank turned - if it's less than 5 degrees you are still good.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by EPNCSU2006
...Then take the distributor off...
You mean the distributor cap in this instance, no? If he pulls the distributor, there will be no rotor to watch. Just trying to understand and clarify.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 10:27 AM
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yes, I left out the cap part, don't take out the distributor
 
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 10:49 AM
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Had same symptoms with my truck, new egr, plugs and wires - AND the proper routing of the plug wires fixed it. I'm not sure about the 351W, but the 302 has real issues with plug wire routing...
 
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 10:23 PM
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5%

That's an excellent common sense answer. I'll check that tommorrow to see if I have excess slack on the timing chain. Today I bought a EGR valve and position senor. Engine was to hot (96 degrees) to change the valve but I did change the senor-no change. I'll check the plug wires also tommorrow when I change the EGR valve. Wires are new but you never know. Glenn
 
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