Hello,
My name is Chad and I have a 94 F150 with the I6. I am getting a reading that says the egr valve is not opening all the way. I switched the sensor that is on the egr valve and that didn't work. I checked all the vacuum lines and none appear to be leaking. There is a strong vacuum coming into a black modual underneith the egr valve but there is virtually none coming out. I'm not sure what that is called as I have never dealt with this type of problem before. The truck only has 74k on it and I have replaced the cap rotor wires and plugs. The truck doesn't seem to be running poorly, but I just bought it so I don't know if it has changed. Can anyone help me?

 

Hey man, I had the same code come up on my 95 f-150 with a 351. I changed the Egr valve, the Evp sensor that sits on top of it and the EVR solenoid. I guess the module you are talking about is the EVR solenoid. It should have a vacuum line going from the EGR to it. it is the EGR Vavuum Regulator. It cost like $35 at ford but no one else had it. I checked all my hoses and lines for cracks, then replaced all that stuff and disconnected my battery to clear the codes and that fixed my problems. there are posts on here that tell you how to check all that stuff with voltmeters and pressure guages but my truck has 120k on it so I figured they could all stand to be replaced. Good Luck

 

How long should the batt be unhooked for the codes to clear?

 

5-10 minutes is enough.

 

I tried changing the EVP sensor and the EVR solenoid... still getting the check engine light... should I change out the EGR?... maybe get a gasket kit and pull the EGR valve off and check the carbonation? Any thoughts?

 

if your carefull you can check for a bad egr valve this way. truck running use a small screw driver that will fit into the holes under neath the egr valve and push up carefully on the metal plate (it is towards the center portion of the valve and fairly big) engine should stumble or stall - when you let go idle should return to normal if none of this happened replace the egr valve-it's easy. your chances of doing any damage here are next to none -i mean worse thing you could do is punch a hole in the valve diaphram but highly unlikeley unles you really try to -any way this the way i've alway's done it because i never remember to pick up a vacuum pump . another thimg is to pull the vacuum line off the egr ang with your thumb over the end of it rev the engine up to see if your getting a suction -if so chances are a bad valve also .. alot of people just disable it - but if you live some where with emissions testing you need it . if everythikng checks out here ok i would say that you need to start checking the wires from the pcm to the evr and to the sensor connectors- if you have patience , a manual (haynes ) , a voltmeter (digital is best for these trucks) , and some mechanical ability you can learn how and perform these tests in an hour or so for a beginner . any questions -write back.

 

Thanks for your thoughts, I'll try that.

 

These tests are not going to prove if the EGR is bad or not. Read the book.

 

you say that but you have no explanation ????

 

Run some searches and read the book. Think about it, say the port into the manifold is plugged, your test says to buy a new EGR. That is one example.

There are some good threads here on EGR problems but not all of the questions have been answered.

Sorry if my statement seemed personal, it is not meant that way at all.