Hi all! New here to this forum...

I have a 1979 F350 2x4 Supercab Trailer Special. It's the XLT Ranger with A/C, C6, 460, PS, PB, Tilt and Cruise.

I'e got the longbed with the dual tanks. I also have the wide top trim with the rubber insert.

When I bought the truck it had had a recent blowout at high speed on the Drivers side rear. This apparently destroyed the rear tank inlet and damaged in the inside of the bed on the outer piece of the bed floor.

In April of this year, I went on a LONG road trip loaded heavy, around 13,000 pounds gcwr. About 150 miles away from home (on he return trip), after about a 4,000 mile trip that same tire blew, and did WAY more damage this time.

When I got the truck, the gas filler neck and door were all okay. I presume that the metal filler neck had been replaced.

Now, the inside of the bed is really mangled, the gas door won't stay closed and the metal filler neck is bent up really bad. Not to mention the outside of the bed wall under the gas tank door. The front of the wheel well is also damaged where the outside bed side "rolls" under.

My bed floor in the center has light surface rust and lots of holes drilled in it. The passenger side of the bed is in very decent shape, inside and out.

My questions are:

1) I can't seem to find a complete longbed with dual tanks (with Doors) for less than $700 to $1,000. Does that seem accurate? (Is this becuase the beds with doors were only made in 78 and 79, making them very scarce?)

2) I've found the bedside, with dual tank doors in good shape, for around $250 to $400. But becuase it is welded on, I'd have to have it done at a body shop, and would expect to pay another $250 to $400 for the body shop labor.

Now I'm looking at $500+ to replace the bedside.

3) I can also probably get the lower piece of the outer bed wall from someplace like JC Whitney or similiar, has a "rust patch" to replace the lower piece. And maybe have the body shop try to reserect the inside floor of the bed?

I'm interested in any opinions or options. I'd like to keep the truck original. I've also found that I can get a really nice flatbed with tool boxes, headache rack (with lights in it) and 4" collapsable sides, goosneck hitch, and integrated reciever hitch for about $1,200 installed. That's tempting, but NOT original.

Thanks!
-Chris

 

I just sold my '77 last month. When I originally got it 7 years ago it had been struck in the pass side of the bed by a backhoe. I kicked around the same ideas you mentioned and here's what I did: Found a reman. bed side for $175 ( Parker Metal Products ). Then I called around to see how much to replace it on the truck ($375).Then looked at painting it. For $300 I bought a Lincoln wire feed welder Pro 100. For another $17 I got a spot weld drill . On a Saturday I drilled out the welds that run along the inside of the bed rail, disconected the little pieces of angle at the corners, & removed the bed side.
The next day, after 20 minutes or so of practicing on the old bedside,I spot welded the new side on( EASY). So, for roughly the same price I got a welder to keep!

 

Thanks for the Tips! Thats a great suggestion... I can't weld worth a crap, but I bet I can spot weld!

Anyone else got any tips or tricks?

-Chris

 

Sometimes the spot welds aren't too visible. Any tricks to making them more easily seen and drilled out, like doing a light grind of the area or something?

 

Hey smurf, sorry to ask a question that has nothing to do with your post.........but

I just looked at a 1978 F350 Trailer special, supercab, longbed, 460,C6,Dana 70 w/3.54 gears. Tilt, cruise,A/C. No rust, no dents, no 5th wheel holes. 80,000 miles. The guy wanted $2,800

I won't ask what you paid for yours cause that would be rude, but do you think one of these is worth $2,800

The truck was very very good condition, but not a mint always garaged type vehicle. It still had the original wheels with the hubcaps so it was sorta old man dumpy looking.

 

Patrick -

That's more than I paid for mine. However, mine needs the seats recovered and had light body damage on the rear from a tire blowout on the drivers side.

BUT, mine did have almost $7,000 worth of reciepts that were LESS than 36 months old.

New Starter
New PS Pump
New Stearing Gear
New Rag Joint
New Alternator
New brakes all the way around
Rebuilt Calipers
New A/C Compressor
New Tires
Chrome Rims
New Tank Sending units (Front and Rear)

And everything works including the cruise crontrol. It has headers with dual exhaust and a cross over.

I just drove this truck back to Minnesota and Iowa in April from Phoenix. Just shy of 5,000 miles.I'd Say $2,800 is a Fair price. But on the other hand, I always offer them a little less then they are asking. Your going to need SOME maint... like an oil change, trans filter and trans fluid, etc. And you've got to get it in your name, and possibly emmissions test depending on where you live.

I love mine, and won't be parting with it. I wish I could find another one like it.

-Chris

P.S. Let us know if you get it...

 

I got the guy talked down to about what you paid for yours, but I am having a hard time making a decision.

My significant other says I would have to get rid of my 76 F250 4X4. That is the only thing holding me back on buying it at this point.

The 78 was just serviced, engine oil and tranny oil changed. Belts, hoses, tires, brakes - all good. Everything works including cruise. (A/C isn't real cold) The truck is ready to drive, it needs nothing.

Why O why can't some people understand that one truck is not enough ? I really just wanted something to drive while I am working on the 76.

 

That's the ticket... You need ANOTHER truck to work on one. To haul the parts around and stuff.

Ones a daily driver to get to work, and one is a project... And then one the project is done, turn the tables, and make it the daily driver and fix up the other...

I feel your pain...

-Chris

 

I do this kind of stuff for a living and have done two this week so its fresh on my mind, first of all i have all the tools to make it easy but the tools you will need is a air die gringer with a cut off wheel , air chisel , grinder and a sander. take the die grinder with the cuttoff wheel and grind the spot welds ( on the one you are removing ) to weaken them once you have all the spot welds severely weekend you can come along with the air chisel and break them ( if you start tearing or bending the the good panel you must grind more of the spot weld ) . keep in mind that it is easier to take smaller pieces off instead of one big sheet so dont fight it cut that bad one up and gut it off.
Once you have it off take the grinder and smooth all the remaining welds , buy some weld thru primer (about 15.00 a can but well worth it ) spray all surfaces that touch together and are going to get welded .
basically now you have reassembly dont be affraid of using a tapemeasure and lots of clamps to hold it , did i mention lots of clamps , do a few tacks here and there , make sure the welds are hot enough to penetrate and just dont lay on top .
when you get it all welded grind the head off the weld and sand flat , buy some seam seal and use it in the seams like factory does and your done .

This is a rough story but it gets to the point .
good luck

 

Thanks for the input guys!

Some more quesitons...

If I replace the bedside with an after market "new" one, how do I get the "****" back on the side where the bed molding goes? I have the wide molding.

Also, where do I get new "plastic" molding holders that clip on the "****" to hold the molding to the bedside?

Thanks,
-Chris

 

Check with the bodywork forum for info also.

 

There is a spot weld tool that every body shop should have to put those **** back on and they should be able to get or have those clips on hand also . Basicly most body shops should charge hourly to do this but i couldnt see this taking verry long.