2000 spittin and a sputtering
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2000 spittin and a sputtering
Hi I'm new to the forum- any help would be much appreciated. My truck is a 2000 Sport- 2.5/ 5 speed (53,000 miles). It has had a cold- starting problem off and on for the last couple of months- when you start it it'll run like crap for several seconds, just really rough. Sometimes I have to restart it a couple of times before it smooths out to normal. But after it does smooth out it runs perfect and you can drive it all day. I might add that it doesn't do this every day, more like every couple days (and have never had the check engine light come on). I had it at the dealer 2 weeks ago to get it ready to take on vactation- they put new spark plugs/ new plug wires and did the "intake cleaning service" on it, I then brought it home and changed the fuel filter,PCV valve, and put a new air filter on it. I put 1200 miles on this truck last week on vacation and it never did it once- now that I'm back home this rough starting thing has come back up. Any ideas?
Last edited by Alabamaranger; Sep 14, 2004 at 10:48 AM.
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From: Seattle
ODB II reader
Get that code reader on it!!
Seriously, it can help a lot especially when you aren't sure about what is going on. I've heard that auto parts stores will let you use their reader for free, but I've don't have any first hand experience with that.
Seriously, it can help a lot especially when you aren't sure about what is going on. I've heard that auto parts stores will let you use their reader for free, but I've don't have any first hand experience with that.
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Hi albamaranger,
I think I would be tempted to look at my IAC valve and make sure it is clean and operating smoothly. For grins I would also take a quick peak at my EGR valve and do the same. If either of those valves are sticking you could see the type of problem you are having. If a valve is sticky - it might not throw a code and it might act up more on a commute than a long drive. - Without codes - your kinda shooting in the dark. Good luck.
cscottyr
I think I would be tempted to look at my IAC valve and make sure it is clean and operating smoothly. For grins I would also take a quick peak at my EGR valve and do the same. If either of those valves are sticking you could see the type of problem you are having. If a valve is sticky - it might not throw a code and it might act up more on a commute than a long drive. - Without codes - your kinda shooting in the dark. Good luck.
cscottyr
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Thanks for the replies- yeah I do need to see if there are any codes. As far as the IAC, that was the "supposed" to be one of the things the dealer did with that intake cleaning service- I specifically asked them what this cleaning covered because I was planning on cleaning the MAF and IAC myself (along with changing the plugs/wires)- I only took it to them in the first place because I was worried about running out of time before vacation. I haven't got much experience with computer controlled vehicles yet- will codes show up even if the check engine light never comes on? Thanks again....
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The check engine light comes on after a certain criteria has been met for a part on the truck. For something like the DPFE, if the computer detects a problem 2 times in a row it comes on. Other components may be tighter or looser in their interpretation of when its time to turn on the check engine light.
The computer records it all, but if the problem does come back after a certain number of engine starts the computer will discard the information as a fluke.
The computer records it all, but if the problem does come back after a certain number of engine starts the computer will discard the information as a fluke.
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Update- i bought an Actron code reader (Autozone!!!) and have hooked it up several times in the last week or so- it's not showing any codes whatsoever. The truck is still having the same problem- it's actually doing it a little more often now. So, I have a can of intake cleaner and am going to try cleaning the IAC sensor/ and the MAF. Someone also mentioned the EGR valve...I want to make sure, this is the black "flying saucer- looking thing" on the back side of the intake- has a series of holes on the bottom side ( i realize this a stupid description) does this sound like the right "thing"? Do I need to remove it to clean it? Thanks.
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Interesting how the code reader won't show anything. I don't know much about the 2.5 liter's (come to think of it I don't know much about the 3.0 liters either!!), but if that truck so much as passes wind after burning especially gassy fuel the computer will record it.
One thing about the computer. The CEL light will only go off if the computer detects something that meets specific requirements. I don't think (there's that dangerous word again) that running like crap is necessarily enough to set it off.
I'm just concerned that maybe your code reader is only showing hard faults, only the things that cause the CEL light to come on. Regardless, cleaning the MAF and all that other stuff won't hurt anything but I'm thinking something is going out on you - its just not enough to flag a warning yet.
One thing about the computer. The CEL light will only go off if the computer detects something that meets specific requirements. I don't think (there's that dangerous word again) that running like crap is necessarily enough to set it off.
I'm just concerned that maybe your code reader is only showing hard faults, only the things that cause the CEL light to come on. Regardless, cleaning the MAF and all that other stuff won't hurt anything but I'm thinking something is going out on you - its just not enough to flag a warning yet.
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I have a '98 B2500 with EXACTLY the same problem. I have been told that it is a fuel regulator problem, but as the fix is quite expensive I am refusing to believe it is the issue.
I started a new thread on this problem.
I started a new thread on this problem.
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Will have to check out your thread- I wondered about fuel pressure because that's how it's always acted..as if it's getting just enough fuel to run rough, then after 30 seconds/or several restarts VROOM it's running perfect and will start perfect as long as it doesn't sit for several hours. But all the searching I did on this site indicated the IAC/MAF and the ?Coolant Temp sensor, which is why I've been leaning in that direction. As far as the code reader- I've even had it hooked up as it was doing this rough running thing and it still said "no codes-passed". I gave like 150.00 for it at Autozone- I think really all it does is scan the computer and you can reset the codes and stuff like that. I'm sure it'll come in handy on down the road,but I sure was disappointed that it didn't give me anything to go on with this problem.
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That sucks that the reader didn't give you any info. I am sure in the future it will pay for itself though. At the very least, it is one more gadget to play with.
I too have been leaning towards the IAC/ECT as the source of my troubles, based upon what I have read hear and at Rangerstation.
The interesting thing is that I asked why a faulty fuel pressure regulator would cause a starting problem when it is cold, and he couldn't come up with a response.. Interesting... Let us know what you find.
I too have been leaning towards the IAC/ECT as the source of my troubles, based upon what I have read hear and at Rangerstation.
The interesting thing is that I asked why a faulty fuel pressure regulator would cause a starting problem when it is cold, and he couldn't come up with a response.. Interesting... Let us know what you find.
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So you're thinking the shop is picking the most time-consuming ( expensive) fix they can find to maybe stick you with a large repair bill....jeez I hope not. I have heard of stuff like that before though - charging you for an engine rebuild when all you needed was a couple 30.00 parts. That's why sites like this are so valuable-you can do a lot of research even if you're gonna have someone else do the repair work.
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Well, I am not too sure what to make of the shops intentions. I am a little cautious about this kind of a problem because it seems like the solution is open to interpretation. I just worry about paying a large repair bill and having the problem still persist.
I agree that sites like this are useful, it gives people access to more information that they could ever find on their own (or perhaps even use!)
I agree that sites like this are useful, it gives people access to more information that they could ever find on their own (or perhaps even use!)
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From: SW Va
Alabamaranger, don't know which Actron you bought, but if it's the CP9145 it can scan live engine feeds, (PID's).
So hook it up & scan down to the fuel pressure live feed & monitor it when starting & see if it drops, when the engine act's up.
So hook it up & scan down to the fuel pressure live feed & monitor it when starting & see if it drops, when the engine act's up.
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Checked all the sensors discussed here with a voltmeter, and cleaned the IAC sensor....the cleaning seems to have solved the problem. I was amazed at what a difference it made, because the sensor didn't look to be all that dirty, although the inside spring/plunger (?) looking mechanism did look kind of black and gummed up. Thanks again for all the responses- I'm hoping this cured it although it's only been 2 days so I'm still a little paranoid that the problem will reappear.