pulling truck parts
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: clarks mills, PA
pulling truck parts
me and a friend are thinking about building a 4x4 pulling truck. I might have foung a truck (78 f250 supposidly 60s front and rear) i know i want a 60 front and a 205 tcase but what about rear i dont think that the 60 will take it out back. and what tranny do i want? will the one in the truck handle 800 to 1000 hp from a built big block not sure what it is. ill try to go check it out tonight.
Should i run rear springs or attach the rearend right to the frame. i saw one that had what must have been a semi rear that was attached to the frame with 4" square tubing and the hitch was hooked right to the axle not the frame. sounds like a good idea to me oif the rearend housing would hold up. probably would help to prevent wheel hop too
thanks for any input
Should i run rear springs or attach the rearend right to the frame. i saw one that had what must have been a semi rear that was attached to the frame with 4" square tubing and the hitch was hooked right to the axle not the frame. sounds like a good idea to me oif the rearend housing would hold up. probably would help to prevent wheel hop too
thanks for any input
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
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From: Bonita Springs FL
I think attaching the rear axle directly to the frame would be a very, very bad idea. 800-1000 HP is a tremendous amount of force, and you will likely tear the axle from the frame no matter how well you attach it.
It's like when they build a bridge - they're designed to be flexible. If a bridge is too rigid, it will torn apart. The flexibility absorbs and distributes the force. That's what the rear springs do.
A 60 may or may not be enough to handle that kind of power. You might need a Dana 80. You will also need some massive traction bars, or you'll end up wrapping the springs right around the axle housing.
It's like when they build a bridge - they're designed to be flexible. If a bridge is too rigid, it will torn apart. The flexibility absorbs and distributes the force. That's what the rear springs do.
A 60 may or may not be enough to handle that kind of power. You might need a Dana 80. You will also need some massive traction bars, or you'll end up wrapping the springs right around the axle housing.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: clarks mills, PA
i knew i would heed a set of ladder bars but then i saw that truck with the axle attached directly to the frame. i think i could make it strong enough i would use 4in square tube one verticle and one at a 45 forward and one 45 back all of wich would be attached to the axle housing. i would chop the frame in front of the wheel hoop and from there back run 8" c channel. i would double the c channel from a foot in front of the front diagonal to a foot behind the rear one. that would make the frame 4" wide to weld to and stronger than the hinges of hell.
anyone know of an axle that has square tubes and not a rockwell. it needs to have a u joint thats not overly huge (1810) and have options for gear ratios that math a dana 60 reverse rotation
anyone know of an axle that has square tubes and not a rockwell. it needs to have a u joint thats not overly huge (1810) and have options for gear ratios that math a dana 60 reverse rotation
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 183
Likes: 4
From: Indiana
Also, I believe if your going up to that level of Hp, then you'd better upgrade to a single speed tcase and put a huge rear end under it. Also, check out the net for ideas and parts, and don't forget design to NTPA specs or
Here's a few websites to help you out.
www.ntpapull.org
www.pulltown.com
www.fullpull.com
www.atpapullersonline.com
Here's a few websites to help you out.
www.ntpapull.org
www.pulltown.com
www.fullpull.com
www.atpapullersonline.com
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