V10 engine stumble...
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
V10 engine stumble...
Hello, well I have a 99 F350 with the V10 motor and 82,000 miles on in. I have recently had a stange stumbling exhaust noise when running. The RPM's aren't stumbling, just the exhaust pulses. This occurs when in idle or crusing around town. I can only figure it is either a plugged cat or a sensor. Seeing how these trucks have sensors for EVERYTHING I figured I ask here and see what yall think. When I say stumbling I mean that it seems as though the exhaust pulses are missing a beat every couple of pulses??? Does this make sense??? About the truck, newly changed autolite double plat. plugs, zoodad mod, k&n filter, crappy dual exhaust put on by previous owner and stock cat. Any ideas?? Seems strange to me that the RPM's are staying normal but the exhaust pulses are weird... Oh yeah, runs 87 octane gas... thanks, Judd 
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,859
Likes: 7
From: USA
Does this truck have the stock y -pipe that came with the truck? If so there was always a complaint of flutter in the exhaust.Also chk to make sure the spacer plate between the engine and trans is not loose or vibrating.there was a
problem with that also back in 99
Rich
problem with that also back in 99
Rich
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Y pipe is stock. I'm not sure about the flutter. I thought flutter was more of a consistant exhaust noise, mine seems to come and got with exhaust pulses and RPM... anyone else??? thanks forty...
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
I know that it seems like the engine is not stumbling, but if the exhaust report sounds like stumbling its the engine. Sounds like a coil going south, 1tonJudd. It won't throw a code unless it gets real bad.
To me, we ought to have a better way to check these coils than go to the dealer for a driveability test each time, but for now (unless you have a WDS) that's what we have to do...to find out for sure.
To me, we ought to have a better way to check these coils than go to the dealer for a driveability test each time, but for now (unless you have a WDS) that's what we have to do...to find out for sure.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Big Orn
I know that it seems like the engine is not stumbling, but if the exhaust report sounds like stumbling its the engine. Sounds like a coil going south, 1tonJudd. It won't throw a code unless it gets real bad.
To me, we ought to have a better way to check these coils than go to the dealer for a driveability test each time, but for now (unless you have a WDS) that's what we have to do...to find out for sure.
To me, we ought to have a better way to check these coils than go to the dealer for a driveability test each time, but for now (unless you have a WDS) that's what we have to do...to find out for sure.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by 1tonJudd
Thanks Orn. Could it possibly be a plugged cat? Seems that the noise is noticable when the engine is hot. This would make sense to me because the cat works once the engine is hot and is more straight through when the engine is cold. Is this correct? Could this possibly be my problem? Thanks, Judd
The reason I say that is that if the cat is stopped that bad I would think you'd get a Service Engine Soon light due to the sensors catching it.
Maybe someone will come along that has heard of a cat of this type stopping up enough to make the engine stumble. But, since the coils seem to go bad much more than plugs or injectors my money's on one of them.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Are there any at home methods of checking the coils or do I have to take it into the stealership? Anyone?? thanks, Judd
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Sputtering in exhaust
I have a similar issue with a 2001 F250 with the V10. I have been told numerous things that could cause this problem. The dealership wasn't able to detect anything the last time it was in for service. What they did recommend was that if you change the plugs you should also change the coils at the same time. They also mentioned that the last coil on the passengers side is the most common for this type of response. I asked if the y-pipe could cause this sputtering during acceleration, they said not likely. They did say that if the y-pipe or cat had a problem you would have a more serious problem.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by jjcaldwell
I have a similar issue with a 2001 F250 with the V10. I have been told numerous things that could cause this problem. The dealership wasn't able to detect anything the last time it was in for service. What they did recommend was that if you change the plugs you should also change the coils at the same time. They also mentioned that the last coil on the passengers side is the most common for this type of response. I asked if the y-pipe could cause this sputtering during acceleration, they said not likely. They did say that if the y-pipe or cat had a problem you would have a more serious problem.
thanks jj, so were you able to fix your problem? I replaced the last coil on the passanger side because I bent the spring like wire that runs through the coil boot. This seems to have helped the problem, but it is still there. The thing that is weird to me is that the stumble is really only noticable when the engine is warm, not when it is cold??? Anyone got any ideas, I also cleaned the MAF, no help?????? judd
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by 1tonJudd
thanks jj, so were you able to fix your problem? I replaced the last coil on the passanger side because I bent the spring like wire that runs through the coil boot. This seems to have helped the problem, but it is still there. The thing that is weird to me is that the stumble is really only noticable when the engine is warm, not when it is cold??? Anyone got any ideas, I also cleaned the MAF, no help?????? judd
Here, it's about $36.00 depending on the problem(s). It should only take half an hour to check those coils.
Previously you asked if there was a test you could do at home: There is a device that you can use to check the coils individually, but I would think it would be time-consuming. I can’t think of that meter right now, but if you know someone at an electronics store or at the dealership, they can tell you. The process is in the Chilton’s manual, if I'm not mistaken.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
Likes: 8
From: NE Texas
Judd,
When you said:
...it made me think that it was a coil.
I don't know about Rich (FortyFords) or the rest of the guys here, but my posts seem to all run together after awhile, so if I repeat myself, forgive me, will ya'?
Just because a coil seems to be performing okay, that is, not failing enough to throw a code or causing a dead-miss, doesn't mean it's in good shape. A coil will peak too high, then a few RPM's later, spike low on voltage. A miss might not sound like a miss and may seem, later, completely gone. It's the nature of the beast until technology overcomes it. But, until then, we have to rely on our instincts, skills and statistics to keep us moving...and the help of the present-day tools and techniques. I have read here that the drivability test could cost up to $100, but sometimes it's well worth it.
When you said:
Originally Posted by 1tonJudd
When I say stumbling I mean that it seems as though the exhaust pulses are missing a beat every couple of pulses???
I don't know about Rich (FortyFords) or the rest of the guys here, but my posts seem to all run together after awhile, so if I repeat myself, forgive me, will ya'?
Just because a coil seems to be performing okay, that is, not failing enough to throw a code or causing a dead-miss, doesn't mean it's in good shape. A coil will peak too high, then a few RPM's later, spike low on voltage. A miss might not sound like a miss and may seem, later, completely gone. It's the nature of the beast until technology overcomes it. But, until then, we have to rely on our instincts, skills and statistics to keep us moving...and the help of the present-day tools and techniques. I have read here that the drivability test could cost up to $100, but sometimes it's well worth it.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Again, thanks Big Orn, you knowledge and comments are greatly appreciated! Next it's off to the dealership. Does anyone think that an independent repair shop would have the diag. equipment to do the driveablilty test? What equipment is needed to perform this test? thanks everyone!! Judd
New User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Same Problem Fixed
I had about the same problem only I could feel the stumble/miss too, probably because I have a manual transmission. Mine got worse over time and was heat related at first.
I bought a new coil at Schucks for $50 and changed the coils one at a time, driving the truck in-between, until I found the bad one. It was the front passenger side coil. Ford wanted $147 each for the coils. I can see why they encouraged jjcaldwel to change all of the coils at the same time as the plugs, Ford could quit making trucks and just sell coils if we all did that.
The coils really are not hard to change. It takes 2 minutes per coil and requires a 7mm socket and extension. I changed my spark plugs at 105,000 miles and I had no problems.
Good Luck!
I bought a new coil at Schucks for $50 and changed the coils one at a time, driving the truck in-between, until I found the bad one. It was the front passenger side coil. Ford wanted $147 each for the coils. I can see why they encouraged jjcaldwel to change all of the coils at the same time as the plugs, Ford could quit making trucks and just sell coils if we all did that.
The coils really are not hard to change. It takes 2 minutes per coil and requires a 7mm socket and extension. I changed my spark plugs at 105,000 miles and I had no problems.
Good Luck!
Last edited by Dean44; Sep 21, 2004 at 08:21 AM. Reason: Add signature