How are you guys!!! It's me AGAIN!!!
Well, I have a 460 engine and I already start my list of want i'm going to do w/ it. By next September of next year we'll have my 92 LX screaming for speed
Right now the 302 looks, sounds and runs like a sleeper , but thats OK, I let those ricers and chevys play w/ me but its ok, its ok.
My list its gonna be tough but i'll work it out money and time wise, thats why I said one year from now.
Tomorrow I'll start pull everything apart from the 460, but I have some questions for you gurus, Should I go for the following:

Carburator or Fuel injected??

Same T-5 or Tremec or C4??? I really like my 5 speed, auto its boring

3.73s or 4.10s???

Eventually, I'll get a power adder maybe a supercharger.

Any ideas are welcome, also I'll get some pics of the project.

 

Personally, I think the T5 wouldn't last behind even a stock 460 for very long. I'd think a swap to the borg warner 6 speed like the one that is in a camaro, vette, or viper would be sweet. (I always prefer manual tranny's)

Fuel injection would be great, given you could fine a system that allows for high performance, (basicaly, not a stock truck efi).

 

tremec at least....the TKO or newer II would be a good choice...
F.I.? Got money?

A carbed 460 would run fine...

 

TKO-600, SPEC(www.specclutches.com) Stage IV clutch, 1000 HP or 1050 Dominator. Be ready to beef the rear, a minimum of 31 spline axles, probably 33 splines to withstand the brute torque of the big block. Then plan on around a 295 or 315 series tire, and a lotta brakes to slow it down. Makes me sad I don't have the money to build my '86. Anyone want one?

 

Ha!! this 460 sure is HEAVY, wow!!! so far i got the block naked, I took everything out, block is ready for some cleaning.
I have a year to play w/ it.

Come on guys, suggestions, I wanna make this 92, sound , look and run mean, but i dont wanna drag it to much either, maybe once in a while.

See you later.

 

Here is something you may want to consider, altho, it's pricey, Don't run a supercharger, all your dowing is making a resitance on the drive pullys (expensive power) A turbo charger, would only spool up at about 2500 RPM and then provide you with X LBS boost, get a manual boost controller, and have your machine shop guy build this thing for a dual garrett T4 turbos' run the K&N air intake plemun, for likw 250$ or so, but i'm talking ...providing your motor with around ...15 PSI of boost..now, i'm not sure if you have ridin in any thing with a modifyed boost controller, but they pull like an SOB. get shorty headers, turn them upside down, and build some trick exhaust stuff, that's what i'm planing on running in my 1973 Mach 1, but i'm not sure what motor i want.. but Dual turbo's is the plan, you also might want to think about what you want ..top speed or bottom end, dual 2 1/4's to a 4" single out the back would be for mass trq, but dual 3" out the back would be for top speed,
I hope this helped

 

86I6wontstart ~

Be sure to start a web page or a gallery like this afternoon to keep us all posted with pix - we'd like to see your work and the progress!!......

 

Hi, 86I6WontStart--

Having been around cars for nearly 30 years (worked on them for 18 years professionally), and having begun many projects of my own, I thought I would weigh in here with my two cents:

First and foremost--DEFINE YOUR GOALS!!

You can't ever get to a destination if you don't know where you're going! For example:

1.) Will this car be a daily driver with no trips to track?
2.) Will this car be primarily a street car, with occasional trips to the track?
3.) Will this car be primarily a strip car, occasionally driven on the street?
4.) Will this car be a track-only car?

Now, that's just a BASIC example of goals; if you decide that this well be primarily or ONLY a STREET-driven car, then there are other considerations to take into account, such as:

1.) Drivability (including idling in traffice for long stretches, starting on a hot afternoon or a cold day, having enough low end "punch" to move the car within stop-and-go traffic, etc.--not to mention handling going around turns or curves!)
2.) Fuel Requirements (i.e.: will it be happy on regular, or will it need at least 93 octane or higher--which is MUCHO expensive, and getting more so every day!)
3.) Economy (well, if you're going to drive it on the street, you're going to be filling it up with pump gas; the longer you go between fill ups, the better)
4.) Reliability (you DEFINITELY don't want it to break down when you're out in the middle of nowhere--I've had that happen to me, and I had to do my best "McGyver" impression to get it back running again! Also, you don't want everybody to call your car "The Mosquito Fogger" due to the fact thatyou have a huge cloud of smoke trailing you, because you have too loose of clearances between your pistons and cylinderwalls! OH--and one more thing--unless you get your jollies by pulling engines out of cars and re-installing them every weekend, it's in your best interest to make it as reliable as possible.)
5.) COMFORT (i.e.: if you're gonna take a run on the freeway/highway for more than 20 or 30 minutes, you want to be able to HEAR when you get to your destination! ALSO--you don't want the car to beat you to death while you're getting there!)
6.) Make sure the car MEETS or EXCEEDS ALL State and Federal SAFETY requirements, as well as complies with any emission laws in your area (a word about SAFETY--you might not care all that much about your OWN life, but think about the OTHER PEOPLE on the road, and make your vehicle safe!)

Here is the project I'm working on, as an example:

I have a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII, and it's relatively quiet, comfortable, and has a little "spunk" to it, but it ain't enough. Rather than do the same thing as everybody ELSE who has a Mark VIII and put on Nitrous or a Supercharger, I decided to go back to basics, and build power the OLD FASHIONED way--cubic inches, baby!

Originally, I was going to install a 408 Windsor Stroker into it, but someone on another board mentioned that the external dimensions between the 4.6L DOHC and the 385-series engines were identical, except that the 385-series engine is 3" longer.

The weight between the engines is relatively close, if I use aluminum heads and intake, and if I install a tubular K-Member and control arms and re-locate the battery to the trunk, it will have less weight on the front wheels and improve the balance of the vehicle.

I also figured that I could build a stroker and have gobs of HP and torque, which is what this car needs since it weighs around 3900lbs empty.

Here are the goals I have set (and can achieve):

1.) The engine will be smooth idling, easy starting and comply with all local and federal emissions requirments (I can achieve this by using EFI, a reasonable camshaft, a custom-burned chip and BEEEG mufflers, as well as high-flow catalytic converters and of course, unleaded fuel)
2.) The car will retain at least the same level of comfort and drivability, and nearly the same economy as the stock engine (I can achieve that by using the EFI as mentioned above, adapting the 4R70W to the 460, and using a little sense when it comes to the "go pedal").

I figure I can make around 600HP with a smooth idle with a 521 stroker engine, and if I keep my foot out of it, it shouldn't do too bad on gas, with the overdrive kicking in at highway speeds; also, since it will have plenty of torque, there will be no need to go to a lower gearset in the rearend, which will reduce engine revolutions at highway speeds, which will in turn, reduce total fuel consumed.

With the combination I have chosen for the engine and drivetrain, I should be able to get mid-11's or better in the quarter-mile, as well as pull down around 20-22MPG on the highway--all the while doing it in comfort! I've built enough of these projects that I believe I've gotten it down pretty good by now!

Good luck on YOUR project!

 

If you "eventually may" want to run a supercharger, you might want to seriously consider the implications of that decision right now, and build your engine accordingly. If you build for speed now (naturally aspirated) and use a higher compression ratio, say, 10:1, running a supercharger (or turbo) later, is going to cause you a headache, as the compression ratio will be too high for any kind of serious boost (10:1, assuming everything is ceramic coated, typically allows you 5-6lbs of boost. Above that you're risking experiencing detonation).

I've proven several times with various engine builds i've done, that if you want to run serious boost, run a much lower compression motor. You'll make more power, with less compression and higher boost, than the other way around.