I drive a 1965 Ford 100 V8 352 long wheel base truck. I let my son change out the starter cylinoid for me, (BIG MISTAKE) now the truck won't start. I am not reading anything on the voltage meter. I can't get any response out of it at all except the horn still works. If anyone can help me try to figure out what has happened to my truck I would greatly appreciate it. I am not the most machanical female so please use terms I can understand. LOL
Thank you!

 

first, make sure all the wires are correctly replaced back on the new solenoid. Then check your cable from solenoid to starter. If neither of those checks reveal the trouble, it may be the solenoid again.

Make sure the vehicle is in park (if auto) or truck is not in gear if a manual, and brake is on, and do not stand in front of the truck when trying below!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Also, there may be some sparking so make sure gas is not all over the place! Wheel blocks would be another good idea just in case.

to check if the solenoid is the problem, take a set of jumper cables and hook the one jumper to the positive side of battery. take the other end of the jumper (same cable as hooked to positive side) and touch the end of it to the post on the side of the solenoid that the cable to starter is connected (should be the side facing towards rear of truck). If the starter cranks, I would say your solenoid is the culprit. leave key out of ignition and it should not start and should stop cranking when you pull the cable back. If you do this with key on in ignition the truck will start if the starter cranks, and you can start your truck that way in a pinch.

I have personnally gone through 3 solenoids in a week on a truck before, so even though it is new, it still can go kaput rather quickly.

hope this helps!, Ron

PS, dont be too hard on JR, if like most kids, ya lucky to get them to do anything LOL! (I got 3)

 

Hey Simpledawn,

I'm Brian I have a 66 F-100 for 18 years now. You problem sounds basic, first check all the connections. Could be a bad selinoid, I've had brand new junk parts before. Does any thing else electrical work? Radio, lights? Could be the starter. Kinda hard to tell from here in Massachusetts.

This is the earliest I've ever posted. You posted after 3AM? I just got in from work at the bakery, I'm a maintenance mechanic there.

When the guru's wake up this morning you will have more help.

Good luck

Brian
__________________
bgsuarez
66 F-100 CC LB
302 C-4

 

Dawn, the guru's beat me to the draw. BG

 

hardly a guru here, just not lucky with starters / solenoids LOL!

BTW, good morning from teh grave yard shift!

ron

 

Thanks guys I will try your ideas and let you know what happens. No my lights aren't working either, just my horn. I guess you could call me a night owl, I am up all night. Thanks again!

 

if lights are no go but horn is, sounds like wires may be in wrong spots. if the wire from the ignition switch is in wrong place or disconnected, turning the key will not open the solenoid switch and allow the amps to hit the starter. It will also prevent the truck from running when you try to jump with the cables while key is on. Additionally, the lights should be working key off, wether or not solenoid is good or bad. Check Dem Wire Positions!

Ron

 

SD: Here is how your wiring should be when hooked up correctly.
Place yourself with the 2 small prongs facing you.
1. The single large cable from the starter should be bolted to the large RIGHT stud. (Nothing else should be wired here.)
2. The positive battery cable and all the other wires with large connectors should be bolted to the LEFT stud.
3. The red/blue stripe elbow connector wire should be pushed onto the LEFT post. This is the wire from the ignition switch.
4. The brown elbow connector wire should be pushed onto the RIGHT post. This provides 12V current to the points and coil during cranking.

EDIT: This is how it is set up on my truck - see Dave's post below.

 

Banjo, was in process of posting when noticed your thread. Wanted to confirm your description of the relay connections. On my 65 the brn is connected to the ign side of relay, closest to firewall, and the red/blu tracer is on start side of relay, or battery side. Recently installed all the wiring. Starts, runs great, all electrical components working except horn, which is another issue. Copied from my other 65 which does not necessarily mean it is right. Thought would confirm, don't want my truck going up in smoke.

dave

 

did they give you the 4 prong solenoid? if so take it back. they have the 3 prongs but always tell you the 4 prong is ok and will work.

 

Dave:

It looks like mine (a '66) is wired differently?
I just went out and double checked. Brown small wire to the post next to the starter cable, and red/blue stripe on the post next to the battery cable.
Not surprising!
I know mine is original, so if yours is also original, then they changed colors around somewhere. Or mine is messed up.
Good call, too. I appreciate you catching that and mentioning it.
In any case, switching the two small wires won't hurt anything. Nothing will happen when you turn the key, that's all.


EDIT: In re-reading your post, I think ours are the same. Red/blue stripe to the BATTERY side of the relay (solenoid), and brown to the STARTER side of the relay.

 

Old Yeller, I respectfully disagree with you.
The 4 prong starter solenoids are necessary on these older trucks.
The post next to the starter cable is not necessary on vehicles with the later electronic ignition.
The 4 prong is designed to give the points and coil a full 12V during cranking. The brown wire (on my truck, in this case) sends the 12V straight to the points from the solenoid while the starter is engaged, key at START. This creates a hotter spark to assist in getting the slowly rotating engine started. Once the key is turned from START to RUN, the solenoid shuts down, the starter disengages, and the brown wire shuts off as well.
Once the engine is running, current is supplied to the points through the ignition switch, through a resistance wire which drops the current to about 6V - 8V.

On later vehicles with the 3-pronged starter solenoid, the ignition module provides all necessary current for spark, so the 4th prong, the one next to the starter cable, is not needed.

 

Can not say whether original. The 65 possibly copied is suspect. Almost tempted to swap those 2 leads to see if truck will start, but past experience says leave well enough alone. Unfortunately, my 65 wiring diagram inconclusive. Sorry Dawn04, perhaps other 65 owners will post and you can go with the consensus.

dave

 

Hey guys,
Thank you all so much for all your imput. I tried the by-pass with the jumper cables. The motor turned over, as soon as I realsed the connection. Truck died. Replaced starter cylinoid, voltage regulator, and ignition switch. Still nothing. Had battery checked out and it is holding 14 volts.
Okay, since I wasn't there when the first S/C was changed. There is one wire that I am wondering if it is in the wrong place. It is a large black wire that runs with a small yellow wire and it is connected to the positive side (Left side) of the S/C. Is this in the right place or not? I do know that the L shaped connecters are in the right places.
I have to be honest I am getting discoraged about all this mess.
Thanks again everyone I greatly appreciate all of your help and wisedom!

Dawn

 

Just for kicks and giggles, try switching the two elbow wires around.
It won't hurt if they're on wrong.

If the jumper method turned the engine over, but it doesn't turn over with the key on START, then the solenoid is not getting juice from the ignition switch.

If switching them around doesn't fix it, then we need to look at the wiring between the ignition switch and the solenoid, and possibly between the battery and the switch.

As far as your black/yellow wires, if they have a large electrical connector, then they should be mounted to the side with the BATTERY cable. If I remember right, that should go to the alternator.
There should be nothing else except the starter cable connected to the other side.

We understand the discouragement. We have been there before too. Keep at it, and you'll figure it out soon enough. It helps if you don't go changing parts just right off the bat. Try to learn the electrics, and then you can troubleshoot with the best. Cheaper that way, too! The best way to learn is to work with these old trucks until you know it inside and out.