I've got a '53 F100 that I'm restoring. For better or worse, the entire truck has been disassembled, blasted or cleaned well, Ospho'd, and then sprayed with ZeroRust (fairly heavy coat) but no runs. Everything has been sitting for a couple months now and should be very dry.

I understand that I will need to scratch up the surface of the paint since it is so dry (Red Scotchbrite?) I do not want to work with any of the isocyanurates because of safety hazards (I'll be spraying in my garage directly under my son's bedroom). I've got PPG Kondar Acrylic Primer-Surfacer to use over the Zerorust and plan to use an enamel paint over that.

Since my beginner body work is less than perfection, I'd like to stay away from darker colors like the original Meadow Green. I saw an Alfa-Romeo with a beautiful sky mist blue color (sort of a light grayish blue). That might look nice and not catch too much heat in the North Carolina summers - no AC.

Will I need a primer-sealer over the primer-surfacer and under the enamel?
Is clear coat pretty much a necessity over the color coat of enamel?

I’m looking for a daily driver, mostly stock, low maintenance, non-show truck that I can perhaps apply flame graphics to later (in the 50’s style – this very truck did have flames on the hood many years ago!)

Comments? Suggestions? Stay PPG with the rest of the products? Color choice?

Thanks for any help.

-Scott

 

I used rustoleum products with good results. I did about the same thing. I needed a good looking paint job that I could do. I would recommend sticking with the same brand and starting with primer over what you got going on and going all the way to clear coat. I used rustoleum auto primer and rustoleum clear. They said there could be problems using anything else with their products. It looks good, but definitely doesn't seem as tough as "real" paint.

 

The ZeroRust people said that I could use anything over the ZeroRust as long as it had fully dried first and that I would need to scuff it for adhesion, but not to break the film.

-Scott

 

When you mix & match products, you are working with a bunch of unknowns. In other words, it may work or it may not. Since I'm not a PPG expert, what follows is general information.

PPG Kondar (DZ3/DZ7) appears to be a 1K surfacer/primer. That should mean it's isocyanate free. Recommendations are that you should sand the ZeroRust with 320-400 grit (600 wet) before the application of the Kondar. For those hard to reach areas, use red ScotchBrite like you planned. Kondar has some warnings (See the Kondar p-sheets for further details). You will notice there are specific needs when Kondar is applied over different types of substrate so your real unknown is how Kondar will react with the ZeroRust. Since you can reduce both Kondar and ZeroRust with regular lacquer thinner, I suspect it shouldn't present a problem.

DelStar DAR is PPG's acrylic enamel paint. DelStar is compatible with Kondar and there is no need of a sealer between the two products. DelStar is iso-free. You will not be able to add a hardener to it, since you want to avoid isocyanates.

When you do your final sanding of the Kondar, the general rule is 400 for a solid paint and 600 grit with a metallic.

Personally, I would never use a clearcoat that didn't use a hardener.

 

Thanks for the valuable input. Would I be able to use the DelStar outside with a charcoal respirator and hardener or is that not safe? Would drying time be too long and make bugs, dirt, etc. a problem? If I don't use a hardener with Delstar, how long would it take to dry?

-Scott

 

Narwal...It sounds like you and me are doing the same thing for the same reasons. My "53 was Meadow Green, but I've opted for a lighter color so reflected highlights on my bodywork won't be as pronounced. Back in '53, the truck was available in Glacier Blue (PPG code 10911). It's got enough grey in it so it doesn't look like a big powder puff. There are several good examples in the general photo gallery among the '53 trucks.

 

Welllllll, I have use DelStar/hardener outside with only a charcoal mask but that doesn't mean it should be done. I also have a friend that sprays iso products in his garage with only a charcoal mask.

The correct way is to a fresh air respirator but if you decide to use the charcoal respirator, at least put in fresh canisters, cover yourself up well, and stay upwind.

DelStar has a long drying period without a hardener. I don't recall the amount of time it take to be dust free though. I'll look in my p-sheets to see if I can find that info.

 

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DelStar without hardener

Dust free 40-50 minutes
Tack free 3 hours
Tape free 6-8 hours

 

After getting the opinions, I've come to the conclusion that an acrylic enamel with hardener outside with a new charcoal mask is probably the most practical way. I do have an extra compressor and plenty of regulators, maybe I'll use my full face plastic shield and modify it to provide positive pressure with air from inside the house.

As to the enamel, PPG's Delstar is one choice, but they also make another line called Omni (http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase...Info.asp?Cat=4) that might also work. Delstar vs. Omni? vs. Hawthorne (http://home.att.net/~brer/products.html) eBay paint? I know that you get what you pay for most times, is this one of those cases or is Delstar the same as Omni?

-Scott

 

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I believe Omni is the economy line of urethane (but don't quote me on this). If that is the case, DelStar and Omni are two different types of paint.

Don't use compressed air, for breathing air. You need special filters to make it safe.

 

Omni MAE is supposed to be the lower priced PPG acrylic enamel.

Because the compressed air may have oil from the electric motor compressor in it?

-Scott

 

I have borrowed tools from various friends while I restore my truck. I think that my favorite has been the "Hobby" brand respirator. I used it while painting with Delstar enamel paint. I had been painting in a large barn with plenty of drafts and air changes. About two or three minutes after applying the paint, I took the respirator off. One breath, and I nearly fell over. The paint fumes are ideed very nasty. Here's a link to "Hobby". http://clmcenterprises.com/hobbyair.htm There are certainly other manufacturers and I have no idea where to get the best price for such a tool, but in my opinion, something like this would be just as essential as a spray gun for anyone considering doing their own painting.

 

When I retired, I had the choice of either the gold watch or the money. I took the money and bought the HobbyAir. Never regretted the decision.

 

Oil, vapors from the heat that breaks down the oil, and in one case I'm familiar with, carbon monoxide. In the CO incident, the compressor overheated and burned the paint on the compressor. The CO from burning paint was sucked up by the compressor and sent to 2 men breathing it. Both of them died.

 

Well that doesn't sound like much fun. Maybe I'll see something tomorrow at the Charlotte Auto Fair...

-Scott