I was just wondering what oil you would recommend, I have a 50 f1. Thanks

 

You may get about two dozen different recommendations. The climate in which you operate is important for a viscosity recommendation. I have used Mobil oils for many years, Valvoline and several others before that.

The API ratings on a jug of todays 79 cent no name discount oil are much higher than a top end brand carried only a few years ago. Although I have always been oil brand conscious, I'm not really convinced I am not just wasting money. Changing it regularly is far more important than brand in my opinion. Without question, synthetics flow far better in very cold climates. I think everything else is up for debate, and maybe always will be.

 

I live near philadelphia, pa if that helps at all

 

I have used Castrol for years with excellent results. Our Explorer has a 302 and been on a diet of 10w40 since it was new in '96. It gets a change every 3k and has 192k on it and will use less than a half of oil between oil changes and has never had the valve covers off. We use Castrol syntheic in our diesel, but it only has 76k on it. As you can probably figure we do a lot of driving and a good bit is 25 to 50 miles at a pop.

With all that said I agree with 'fenders, most oils are good but the oil change cycle is far more important than the brand.

Jet Jock
"I drive a 'girly' 302 because, when I want to go fast, I go to work"

 

i run valvoline 10w30 sythetic its one of the cheaper synthetics and i dont really have a complaint as for regular oil well most are all the same.

 

My X Son-in-Law works in a Ford test Lab and said that Havoline regular oil was about the best non synthetic. I use Havoline 5W30 in my 55 Y Block. I wouldn't use synthetic in these old engines.

Fred K.

 

This is a good question. My '60 requires SAE 30 according to the manual. None of this 10W-whatever which was developed later. My local shop says I should use the SAE 30. Anybody know of any reason why one should/should not switch to the newer oils?
With the engines being as worn as they are after so many years of use, should you avoid synthetics?

 

Synthetics are outstanding oils. But they are expensive and flow well in all temperatures. They'll take you to the poor house if your engine leaks. They seem to leak even faster than conventional oils. I like synthetics in modern engines that run hot. They aren't necessary for an old engine. As I said earlier, a jug of oil form 7-11 has much better specs than the lubes that existed when your engine was built.

 

I use Valvoline in all my vehcles primarily because they support amatuer racing (SCCA) and I can get it easily. In past years I've used Havoline (Texaco) because I could get it a low cost from a bulk supplier I knew and I've also used Mobil products with great success. I think that the overall quality of todays lubrication products is far superior to what we had a few years ago - any of them will do a good job if you change them out at a reasonable time/milage point so I'd go with the brand I could get the easiest and cheapest from a dependable local supplier.

My $.02

Leaks

 

I've used synthetic Mobil 1 10W/30 in both my old cars for the past 10 years with no problems. They are not daily drivers, however. One is a 1967 289 with about 20,000 miles on a rebuild/168,000 overall, and the other is a 1956 292 with probably 50,000 or so miles since last rebuild in 1985 (I'm guessing because the speedometer/odometer is broken... ).

Both engines ran on non-synthetic oil for years after their rebuilds before I got hold of them and switched to the good stuff. Nothing evil happened. Neither engine burns any oil at all, nor do they leak at any appreciable rate. Good compression all around.

The oil is indeed expensive, though. I heard someplace that changing synthetics on a non-synthetic schedule of every 3,000 to 4,000 miles would reduce engine wear to almost nothing...so I figure it's worth the extra $20-30 at oil change time.

ROB

 

My owner's manual also specifies 30W. 10W30 will work fine as the 10 is the winter viscosity. The plain 30 makes for harder starting in cold weather.
Fred K.

 

I use Motorcraft 10W-30 for my '56 F-100 / 223 I-6 and '67 Mustang 289 V-8.

In my '98 F-150 / 4.6L I use Motorcraft 5W-30.

 

My H226 cu in 50 Ford was bored out .060, etc and I use 10W30 Pennzoil. About 10 years ago Consumer Reports did a really great detailed article on viscosity, etc., that change my mind about the thinner oils. Changed my mind since the higher heats actually create "thicker" oil vs "thinning out the oil" like an old codger like me once thought. Most brands gave pretty much the same protection, I said most. I'm in the St Louis, MO area so middle of the country. Most I've read about synthetics is that when they start to go bad they go in a hurry and hard to figure that out. Just change it when required. Not sure how good they are with older engines. If you talk about fleet (ie taxis, etc) then there are plenty of tests out but a weekend ride every couple weeks is something else.

 

I use 10-40 in the hot area I live in. Pennsoil, Havoline, or Quaker State are good oils. Dewayne is right. Changing the oil and filter on scedule is the key to good engine life. The 10 in 10-30 or 10-40 describes how the oil lubes your engine when you first start it up. As the engine warms the oil acts as it would at the higher number. I'm sorry, I don't go along with the theory of a winter rating number. Your engine operates at the same temp in the summer as the winter if your cooling system is functioning normally. Good luck, John

 

Winter start up is where a synthetic will really shine. When it gets stupid cold here in Iowa, 10W-30 conventional flows like a jar of cold honey. Synthetic flows about the same as it does in the summer. An old V-8 with some miles on it will often knock pretty hard on cold start with conventional oil. I'm talking below zero temps though. Most of your Effie heaters probably don't encourage driving this time of year anyhow.