Overboosting??
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 7
From: colorado
Originally Posted by farmb0y
Yea, same here. Makes me wonder why Ford went to the powdered metal rods instead of the stronger forged. I suppose they were cheaper to make.
Quadzilla-
I'm assuming that is just a relief valve that opens at 22psi, so the PCM will only see 22 psi and not defuel when it gets over that?
I may have to do like Fordnut74 and use an air regulator, or something cheaper that will do the same thing.
Quadzilla-
I'm assuming that is just a relief valve that opens at 22psi, so the PCM will only see 22 psi and not defuel when it gets over that?
I may have to do like Fordnut74 and use an air regulator, or something cheaper that will do the same thing.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Romulus, Michigan
Hi guys I just thought I would try to help out, there is a regulator that you can put in the map sensor hose takes a few minutes to install and your engine light won't come on when you go past 22lbs of boost which is the amount that your computer cuts back fuel to the engine.Also the last forged rods were early 01 after that you most likely will have powder metal forged rods not powder coated they are forged from powdered metal not coated there is a plug in the block and you can find out which you have the powder metal forged rods are actually harder than the forged rods which makes them good for gas engines not so good for diesel because the forged rods will flex a bit when extreme detonation occurs like dumping huge amounts of fuel into the engine the powder metal forged rods will break due to their stiffness hope this helps.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Romulus, Michigan
You can go to www.findarticles.com it talks about the rods in more detail.I saw it posted earlier on this thread the last build date for the forged rods being october of 2000,but the interesting thing about that is that they didn't get the powder metal forged rods in the quantity needed so they used forged rods until they arrived at the plant so the majority of trucks with an early build date in 2001 got the forged rods like me I got lucky with a build date of february or 2001 I had a friend of mine that works at a ford dealership pop the plug in the side of the block to see if I hit the lotto and I did so I hope this helps clear it up a bit.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Romulus, Michigan
look on the driver side door it will tell you there I have an extended cab and mine was on the rear door look at the top of the plate hope this helps.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
From: Romulus, Michigan
look on the driver side door it will tell you there I have an extended cab and mine was on the rear door look at the top of the plate hope this helps.I have to tell you that even if your build date is early 2001 it's no guarantee that you have forged rods more like 75\25 in your favor since the plant had major problems getting the amount they needed and had to use the forged rods in place. hope this helps
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 13,653
Likes: 6
From: Cabot, Arkansas
The truck's build date (on the door tag) and the engine's build date (on the left valve cover) are probably not the same day, but they should be close. If your engine was built before 10/16/00 you have forged rods, anything after that and you will need to inspect the rods through the block plug fastfreddy mentioned, but treat it like they are PM rods as forged will be just good luck.