Charging/battery problems
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 93
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Charging/battery problems
OK, I am nowhere close to an auto electrician, so I need help. I have a 70' Bobtail outfitted with a 68' 289. I recently installed a new Diehard battery and all new battery cables. After the truck sits for a few days, I have no juice to start it, not even a "click". When I put the charger on it, it gets "juiced up" enough to start really quick. I have never seen a completely dead battery get charged so quick. I think it has something to do with the new cables, because the truck had juice after it sat the whole winter, and that was with a old, weak battery. What did I do wrong? Or is the regulator bad? The new cables have leads coming off of them, but the old ones did not.
Any directions would be greatly appreciated,
Bobtailfan
Any directions would be greatly appreciated,
Bobtailfan
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,237
Likes: 3
From: Belleville, Ontario
Well, you're going to have to go through the numbers on this one.
Charge up the battery and hook up only the +. Use a test light between the - post & battery clamp to make sure there isn't any draw on the battery.
If that's good, fire up the truck and use a volt meter at the battery to check for ~14V.
AL.
Charge up the battery and hook up only the +. Use a test light between the - post & battery clamp to make sure there isn't any draw on the battery.
If that's good, fire up the truck and use a volt meter at the battery to check for ~14V.
AL.
Senior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 455
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From: Alaska
I'm not saying this is the case, but, some years ago one of my customers thought he would save himself some money and replace the batteries in his dump truck, after several hours of frustration, he called me and I discovered that he had neglected to remove the little black plastic cap covering the negative post, we both still laugh about it.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Oct 2003
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Thanks for the help team. Here is where I stand. I performed the voltage draw test and showed a draw somewhere. I began to pull fuses one at a time. I finally found the fuse that was causing the draw, but it was not the fuse. The fuse was being used to power an aftermarket tach. I disconnected the wire from under the fuse and replaced the fuse. I now have no draw. I will see how things look after a couple of days, but for now it looks good. Two questions for you. 1, why is the tach the problem now and not before? and 2. Does it matter what side of the fuse the wire is connected to?
Thanks again,
Thanks again,
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,951
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From: Virginia
1, why is the tach the problem now and not before? and
Don't know the answer to that one, but if it's hooked to a fuse that's hot all the time, then that is a problem.
2. Does it matter what side of the fuse the wire is connected to?
If you want to use the fuse in the fuse box as the protector of the tach, then yes, it matters. Take the fuse out, and see which terminal in the box has power. The one that does not have power is the one you want.
If you already have a small fuse in the tach hot wire, then it would not really matter, since that fuse would protect the tach wire.
Don't know the answer to that one, but if it's hooked to a fuse that's hot all the time, then that is a problem.
2. Does it matter what side of the fuse the wire is connected to?
If you want to use the fuse in the fuse box as the protector of the tach, then yes, it matters. Take the fuse out, and see which terminal in the box has power. The one that does not have power is the one you want.
If you already have a small fuse in the tach hot wire, then it would not really matter, since that fuse would protect the tach wire.
