make sure that all your batt cables are clean and tight, especially your ground cable.

 

here is an excellent trouble shooting article i found somewhere, hope this helps!!!

One of the most common diesel complaints is a hard to start or will not start situation. Every detail is important when trying to diagnose such a problem. One should determine if engine temperature has anything to do with the problem, ambient temperature should also be considered. Close attention should be paid to the cranking R.P.M. as well as the glow plug system. Starting problems are often electrical related since cranking R.P.M. and the glow plug system are very critical to getting the fuel to burn. Batteries and the starter should also be a consideration if cranking R.P.M. seems slow.
Once the electrical system is ruled out, air entering the system should be considered, especially if the engine cranks, dies and is then hard to restart. Air can enter the system through any break in the fuel line or through a bleedback condition. To determine if air is the problem, install a clear return hose on the return side of the injection pump. If air comes out it is getting in the inlet system someplace. The injection pump is very seldom the cause for air entering the system. In most cases the fuel lift pump or a faulty inlet line usually ends up being the problem.
Engine problems can also be the cause of starting problems. Low compression or timing problems can start out a hard to start condition. Checking these usually involves special tools but it can save a lot of troubleshooting time in the long run.
Fuel supply and quality should also be considered when searching out a hard to start problem. If the vehicle never starts a fuel restriction may exist. Fuel quality is an important part of getting a diesel engine started. Poor quality fuel may not burn properly leading to poor starting. If this appears to be the problem, adding a conditioner such as Stanadyne's Performance Formula may be just the cure. In extreme cases the fuel may need to be changed out and the system reprimed.
The pump and injectors can occassionaly cause a hard starting condition. If a fuel mileage drop or increase in smoke has been experienced the injectors should be suspect, especially if they have ran 75,000 miles or more. If there is no fuel coming out of the injection pump then it becomes a major suspect. First determine if the solenoid is opening by listening for a "click" inside the pump when the ignition switch is turned on. If no click is heard then the pump needs servicing. If a "click" is heard but still no fuel is being pumped, fuel supply and air in the system need to be ruled out as potential problems. One might try using a fuel lubricant such as Stanadyne's Performance JUNIOR, in case the metering valve has stuck in the shutoff. This will sometimes help weak injectors also. If all of these checks are to no avail the injection pump should be removed and serviced by an AUTHORIZED repair agency.
Randy Norton
Service Manager - 23 years of experience in the fuel injection industry
Lubbock, Tx.

 

"30 degrees outside no glow plugs". Gents, this is no bs, I haven't done anything to help her start in cold weather. I do have 2 interstate yellow tops.... They spin her up pretty quick. I'm baffled by the GP probs. I guess I should count my lucky stars she starts as easily as she does. I also take really good care of my electrical system.

 

the valve covers have been off. all glow plugs have been checked along with the connectors in the gaskets and a new gp relay

 

Hey Charlie, I bet your pretty frustrated by now. I think the guys are on to something with your lack of smoke when it doesn't start. When my gpr doesn't work, the exhaust doesn't just fumigate the area, but it does put out some white/grey smoke and smells harsh until it starts and warms up.
Even though at this point I'm thinking it's not the gpr, have you tried cycleing the ingnition two or three times before you start it? If you listen closely you can hear the fuel pump pressurize the rods and some time after that you can hear the gpr switch off. As you've read in previous posts, the time will vary depending on several sensors. With mine, No matter what the temprature is, the first time I start it, the gpr will cycle for over one minute. I can usually tell it is cycleing by the volt meter on the dash or the cab lights dimming a little when the relay kicks on. You can be absolutely posotive it's heating the plugs by measuring the voltage or current at the gpr. My plugs have a brown and yellow wire that feeds them from the gpr. The reason I keep going back the the glow plugs is the fact that it only does it after setting all night and starts fine 6 hours after the first start. If cycling the gpr a few times doesn't help, and the batteries have been replaced, the lack of smoke really seems to point to a fuel issue. I'm no mechanic but previous posts have mentioned the ICM (injector control module) needs a certain voltage or current to work. If you have good batteries you could assume that voltage requirement has been met and have to ask the question, why don't the cylnders fill up with unburned fuel (and cause white/grey smoke) when your trying to start it? In my experience, they have done just that every time my truck won't start. I know, because the smell is enough to gag a maget.

Fellow Posters, Can anyone answer this? Why would the fuel system or ICM work better after the truck has been plugged in for a couple of hours, and otherwise work fine the rest of the day? I think the injectors are opened and closed with oil preasure??? If so, could a weak oil pump cause this situation?

 

Not to beat a dead horse but, when the truck is plugged in the block is being heated, therfore any poor grounds (ie:the grounds on the front of the motor) will be made better by expansion. OK, thats my last $.02. Good luck Charlie.

 

Charlie what kind of engine oil are you using? I know that Louisiana is pretty warm so you don't really need synthetic for a good cold start, but it seems you have checked everything pretty well. Reading this thread, I might have missed it, but if you have the wrong oil in there it will wreck havoc on drivability. Massive foaming and air bubbles in the injectors comes to mind.

 

i use rotella 15-40 and change it every 5,000 miles. same problem with old oil or new.

i don't think it has anything to do with ground cables, bad batteries, a few bad glow plugs, or anything like that, because this problem appeared overnight. one day all was fine and the next i was 1200 miles from home and had to wait an extra 3 hours in a hotel while i checked everything i could think of with no luck. finally plugged it in for two hours and it started.

 

Sorry for two posts, I screwed up

 

Hey Charlie, Email me and I will send you a copy of the hard start/no start diagnostic procedures. I'ts out of a factory service manual, I have on CD. Sorry man I complely forgot I had it.

 

Charlie I sent you an email with some info. I have the same exact problem. I thought my batteries fixed it but no dice. I think the injectors may be sticking when cold. How does it run after its plugged in and you get it to start. Does it shack rattle and roll till it gets warm?

 

Kevin, any chance you could send me that info. I am experiencing a similar situation with my 94 PSD.

Thanks
Chad

 

Hey Mr_Fixit

The truck does shake and rattle, with no power at all until it is warmed up. If I leave it plugged overnight, instead of just an hour or two to get it started, it fires up and runs great.

The local Ford dealer checked all the injectors and replaced three. No affect on starting at all.

 

Yes its the same with mine. It won't make it up a little hill when cold. How did the dealer know which injectors were bad? Did you ever do the tank and fuel line mods.?