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I was talking about all electrical conections. But if you can start it after cycling the glow plugs three times I would check the ohms on the plugs and make sure the temp sensor is not bad. I know with the equipment I work on, that if you have to cycle the plugs more than once I check the ohms on the plugs and and the ohms on the temp sensor for the glow plug controller, and make sure they are within manufracture specs.
I am having the identical problem with my 2000, the truck spent 2 weeks at the ford dealer and still not fixed. Replaced glow plug relay, glow plugs, injection pressure regulator, tested valve cover gaskets/ wireing harness. the tech at the dealer told me to look at the intake heater, and relay along with the injection driver module located inside the drivers side wheel well. Have any of you had any luck with this issue, any help is much appreciated. We have not checked the glow plug temp sensor, where is this located? and when should the intake air heater kick on?
Well I finally got to replacing the glow plugs no help same thing. I gues the next thing to do is put a scanner on in the morning after it sits and look at all the data and see what real deal is.
Well, I finally broke down and took the my truck to the ford dealer. They replaced two injectors and I still have the problem. They said they checked the glow plugs and all were good.
The dealership told me to just keep it plugged in for cold starts and when the traveling troubleshooting expert made his rounds they would have him check it out. It's been a long time, so the other day I went to ask when the factory guy would be there. They said he had already came thru and they forgot to let me know.
I have no faith in the local dealer and I know there must be someone out there that can help.
My rig doesn't like to start without the glow plugs, even in warmer weather. I know you guys replaced the gpr but did you test it? I just replaced a gpr that was only one month old. It would work if I pounded on it with a rubber malet. My 99 f350 has 60K and I've replaced the gpr four times now.
Hello, having the same problem, 2000 F250 PSD. Mine starts after 3 - 5 cycles. Smokes alot while not starting. Looked under the hood and could not find glow plugs. After reading this forum, I think the glow plugs are under the the vavle covers and I need to test resistance on the 5 pin connector. Can anyone direct me to the GP relay. Is it one of the two relays on the left of the fuel filter? All I hear clicking is a relay on the passanger fender side. It rapidly clicks while GP heater light is on.
Also, can anyone tell me what the "sensor" or "preheater looking thing" is before the Turbo unit ( passanger side in air intake line)? It is connected to a relay on the left side of the Fuel filter by a heavy RED wire.
Is any of this covered by the 100K mile factory warranty??
Charlie, out of curiosity, how old are the batteries? If there is no smoke while cranking, but it isn't starting, its possible you have a bad battery (or two). These trucks need a certain amount of voltage to be present while cranking, or the IDM won't fire the injectors.
Well I finally got to replacing the glow plugs no help same thing. I gues the next thing to do is put a scanner on in the morning after it sits and look at all the data and see what real deal is.
before I replace all 8 of my GPs, my rig behaves the same way. After that it starts with one shot (it was 18 degree yeasterday morning here). Go to Sears and get a clamp meter that you can acually measure the current going into the GPs. I think that I paied ~40 for the clamp meter. It can measure DC current, AC current, AC DC voltage, resistance.Make sure you get the one can measure DC current. If I remember right, it's about 10 amps going into each GP. Hope this helps. Erwin
I would agree with Pikachu. I would check and make sure that your batteries are fully charged. Mine did the same thing, would crank and crank at what seemed fully speed and wouldn't fire. I was leaning towards the cps but figured i would charge the batteries. Sure enough, an hour later she fired right up.
kevin265 --30 degrees outside, no glow plug relay installed. Fires everytime. Glowplugs aint that important to a PSD!
What are your mods? Do you do something special that allows that easy cold start?
I'd have to use ether to get mine started at 40 degree's without the glow plugs. The last time mine went out it was probably over 40. The relay was passing just a little voltage and if I cycled it a full cycle 4 or 5 time's it would eventually try to start. But, in the long run, a good swat with a ruber mallet would engage the relay, then it would start.
kevin265 --30 degrees outside, no glow plug relay installed. Fires everytime. Glowplugs aint that important to a PSD!
What are your mods? Do you do something special that allows that easy cold start?
I'd have to use ether to get mine started at 40 degree's without the glow plugs. The last time mine went out it was probably over 40. The relay was passing just a little voltage and if I cycled it a full cycle 4 or 5 time's it would eventually try to start. But, in the long run, a good swat with a ruber mallet would engage the relay, then it would start.
He's dragging the truck behind his other one at 30mph to get it started!
Kwikkordead --He's dragging the truck behind his other one at 30mph to get it started
LOL, I guess that would do it. I'm thinking he might have disconnected something other than the gpr. Maybe the spark plug relay???? Or maybe somebody switched his psd for a gas burner while he wasn't looking. I know for sure mine would never start at 30 degrees without the glow-plugs.
My shop has had several 2000 psd with ICM trouble. But most of the no start problems we see are related to CPS or injector wiring harness and valve cover gaskets.
If the truck a standard shift try pull starting it. If its starts suspect the ICM. Checking the ICM takes a lot of time without a breakout box.