I unplugged the ICM (PIP) and sprayed some wd-40 on the connectors to clean them. Wiped it off and plugged back in

Now the truck turns and will not start.

I am getting fuel pressure.

I replaced the cap and rotor and replaced the PIP (ICM) with a new one and it still will not start.

I guess the computer works fine since I am able to pull codes.
I am getting my old codes that I get all the time before I had this problem.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

Are you getting spark. Need more details of what it is doing and not doing. Way to many potential reasons for a no-start situation. Get us some specifics.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147

 

I hooked up a voltmeter to the coil wire and it reads 12 volts. Maybe I am doing this wrong.

The white wire going into the coil is reading 12 volts.

So I replace the coil.

Still 12 volts from the coil wire.

Checked all fuses.

I have replaced:
PIP (ICM)
ECC-IV
Cap
Rotor
Altentaor
Starter
Starter Solenoid
Starter switch under the steering wheel.
Battery
Battery Cables

I push down on the shaffer valve on the fuel line and gas comes out so I know I am getting gas pressure.

You are right it is acting like it is not given out any spark.
I also hooked up the volt meter number one spark plug and it reads 12 volts.

1.Could it be the ballistic resistor next to the coil???
2. Can they go bad?
2. I notice there is another type of computer / relay under the dash next to the bell ringer that the starter line goes to, could that be it?

Thanks for any help.

Pretty sad by unplugging the ICM and plugging it back in, I runined my truck.

 

Did you check the relays under the hood. I know, I am reaching hear but it sounds as though you covered all the bases already.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147

 

The relay next to horn relay?

I hear relays going on and off when I hit the start button.

Should I be getting 12 volts on the tach (GREEN) wire?
I am getting 0 volts on the white wire.

 

Scratching my head trying to remember wiring schematics, I am at work and don't have my reference material here with me. Pull the coil wire off and check for spark on cranking. It could be a defective new part. Sorry Gschretter I am out of ideas without my diagrams. I have some things I want you to check but can't remember the wire colors to tell you. If you have a manual, Haynes etc... check the ignition switch and neutral safety switch.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147

 

I will paypal for it.

Do you know what the control unit is called that is under the dash by the ash tray? It has two sepreate connectors going to it. I know the ign wire goes into this module.

This is the only sensor that I have not replace.

I have check the wires based on the Hayes manual and everthing seems fine.

The coil wire going to the distributor is showing 12V. On the volt memter, I hooked up the + to the coil wire and the - to the - on the battery.
Turn the motor and it shows 12V. I thought it would show like 35,000V and blow the fuse out on the voltmeter.

The check the res on the coil wire and it is zero. I can run 12v throught the coil with out a problem.

Thanks for your help.

 

The control unit by the ashtray, is it up under the dash or more towards the floor? It could be the fuel cutoff switch. Is there a button on top of it? If so push it in and try to start the truck. That is an idea I hadn't thought of yet.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147

 

By the ash tray under the dash.
I tried the fuel pump thing. Good guess.

 

Doesn't look like anybody else has any ideas either. Does your truck have TFI, I am thinking that either the TFI or the computer fried. Checked my books and you have tried about all the other options. Since you get fuel and it turns over fine, and you have some spark just not adequate. I would check the computer. I believe that the parts places can check it for free. Also TFI modules are notorious for burning up. Just saw your other post, don't give up yet, I know this is frustrating but electrical issues are a pain in the butt irregardless of manufacturer.

T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147