starting problem
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New User
Joined: Sep 2004
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starting problem
I just replaced the positive battery terminal clamp on my 2000 Ranger, 2.5 liter. After hooking it up the truck started fine. I went through the computer idle reset procedures and it ran fine. Now every time I turn the truck off and let it set for 2 or more minutes I can't restart it. All the electrical components get electricity, but the ignition won't kick in. I have to take off the negative battery clamp, wait a couple seconds, reconnect the clamp, and it starts fine, until the next time I turn it off. I've checked every fuse on the truck...nothing. Is there something I need to reset with the computer or what?
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Charlotte, NC
what kind of noises do you here when you attempt to start, is it turning over at all, clicking, or sound like its dieing? when you turn the ignition on, not turning over, do you hear the whirr from the fuel pump at all?
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Thanks for the reply. A click is all I hear. It doesn't turn over at all. Like I said, it's as if the starter cables were disconnected, pretty much the same symptoms: plenty of electricity to the car, just nothing at the starter. I'm sure the starter is fine because when I disconnect and reconnect the negative terminal it starts right up and runs great. I've already checked the fuel pump shut-off switch and it's also fine. I'm thinking it has to do with the computer possibly, some relay that's shutting down after I shut off the engine. It seems to run like clock work, right around the 2 minute mark after shutting off the engine. I'm seriously confused on this one.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
The closest wiring diagram that I have to yours is for a 97 Explorer, your starting circuit is "probably" wired the same. It sounds like you have some sort of problem in the anti theft system & if that click you are hearing is coming from the dash, it's probably the "Anti theft relay" which opens the circuit to the starter relay. Here's what the EVTM for the 97 EX sez: "The start system from the ignition switch must pass thru the anti theft relay. If the anti theft system has been triggered the RAP module will provide a ground to the anti theft relay which then energizes the coil, thus removing voltage to the starting system." Maybe you have a flaky alarm sensor at a door or under the hood. If you have a wiring diagram, see if you can figure out how to test those sensors.
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Thanks again. I'm sure I've got a solid connection at the battery terminal with new clamps, extremely clean posts, etc. I'm going to try the starter relay and go from there. In the event it's the anti-theft relay, any idea if I can bypass it somehow?
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Does your owners manual say anything about resetting the anti theft system after the battery has been disconnected?
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New User
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No, nothing about resetting the anti-theft device. I have found the problem since my last posting: the previous owner installed an after-market kill switch under the steering column. For whatever reason I never had to use it until I disconnected/reconnected the battery. Now, apparently, every time I want to start my truck I have to hold in the button on the switch while I turn the ignition. Have no idea why it works that way now, but as long as I can start it up without disconnecting/reconnecting the negative terminal every time, then I'm okay with it. Thanks for all your help!!
Senior User
Joined: May 2004
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if you had a bad post, and was using it (starting, running, etc) you may of carbonized something, usually something that takes a big load (relays, solenoid pads, etc). Fire up the ignition (but not the starter), and give the relays a tap, or check with a meter. I bet you carbonized something and its making it stick closed/open, hence no fuelpump wirr... Pulling the codes doen't hurt either
Heat caused by the malfunction the post caused in question could be why you've got the 2 minute symptom.
If no electromechanical faults are found, the 2 minute symptom could be the high speed switching devices (computer, etc) draining out the system. So until you've ruled out all the little things....
Heat caused by the malfunction the post caused in question could be why you've got the 2 minute symptom.
If no electromechanical faults are found, the 2 minute symptom could be the high speed switching devices (computer, etc) draining out the system. So until you've ruled out all the little things....
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: SoCal
Originally Posted by books
No, nothing about resetting the anti-theft device. I have found the problem since my last posting: the previous owner installed an after-market kill switch under the steering column. For whatever reason I never had to use it until I disconnected/reconnected the battery. Now, apparently, every time I want to start my truck I have to hold in the button on the switch while I turn the ignition. Have no idea why it works that way now, but as long as I can start it up without disconnecting/reconnecting the negative terminal every time, then I'm okay with it. Thanks for all your help!!