When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I posted earlier about a problem I was having with my 1988 Aerostar. It would run fine until it got warm then it would die and not start until it cooled.
I had the Igniton Control module checked at my local parts dealer and it was bad. I replaced the Ignition Control Module mounted on the distributor. It now runs fine until it warms up then it losses all power! It will not even climb a slight incline. Once it cools it will be fine again for another 5 miles or so then no power. It will still idle.
I have also replace the fuel pump and all fuel filters (on the pump and the inline filter)
Does anyone have any idea what it could be or what I should check next?
When your van starts losing power, does it make any sounds? Did you reset the computer after you changed the module? Check the codes again. It's running too hot. Check your thermostat, Aerostar's are supposed to go through lots of them. When you start losing power and try to restart does your starter drag?
I post earlier about the similiar problem. 1990 4.0 ext. I tried using another ECM which I pick up from junk yard. It did not help. I am also wondering if the engine is running too hot. However, my digital temp gauge shows the temperature is fine and coolant didn't boil up. I check the fan clutch when the engine is hot and found out it is kind of free, very little resistance. Will this be the problem? When my van is moving, it runs fine. It only start to idle rough when I stop at the traffic light for a while or stop and let it idle. Also I used up the old gas and fill up with premium gas(I had stored my van for 6 months) and it seems idle better. At least it won't stall the last time I used it. I hope the old gas is the problem. I will change the fan clutch and thermostat as soon as possible.
When it losses power it does not make any noises it just sounds like it is bogging down. I checked the codes again, on the KOEO it gets 11 all ok. When I warm it up and do the KOER I get a 41 Oxygen Senser Hot right side lean. I went ahead and replaced the coil, coil wire and cleaned the TPS and ICS. Tonight I will replace the thermostat and the remaining plug wires. I will let you know how it turns out.
My digital temp gauge shows the temp at four bars but I do remember that it rarely(maybe never) got above two bars before.
I did reset the codes and checked them twice with the same results 41. The starter does not drag at all, it starts right up. I am also going to replace the Oxygen sensor on the exhaust.
I'm glad I bought the expensive code reader. I also have a 93 Lincoln town car and my father has a 93 Lincoln as well. The reader and module I bought works on all three.
My digital temp gauge show 4 bar also. Never exceed 4 bar. So I wonder if the gauge is correct. When I open the hood after the engine warm up, I feel the intake manifold and surrounding aera is kind of hot. I did have a code 41 as well. After putting in new gas, i don't have any code. Another device you can look at is the ACT sensor. It sense the intake air temperature and adjust fuel accordingly. May be the coolant sensor is faulty too. It still think the engine is cold when it is hot and give out a rich fuel mixture.
I replaced the thermostat and disconected the O2 sensor wires. I let it get warm and it still did the same thing. This time my Check Engine light did come on. I then took the O2 sensor off of the exhaust manifold and then it ran great! It was a little loud of course but at least I found the problem. My catalytic Converter is clogged.
It looks like when the egnition module was failing it must have caused a too lean or rich fuel mixture which can melt the cat.
I shopped the net for a new cat and found that to replace it original equipment (includes the Y pipe pre-heater and cat), which will bolt right on will be in the $230 to $250 range. I have also found an after market cat for $99. Here is what they sent me in an e-mail.
"The correct high-flow catalytic converter for Ford is a pt # XF605 Xtreme Flow Converter.
About this Catalytic Converter
The all new XF-1 high performance catalytic converter will
increase your horsepower up to 10%.The XF-1 high-flow converter is EPA and CARB approved, making it 50-state street legal. The converter is precisely fabricated out of T-304 stainless steel with an aluminized heat shield to ensure street durability. The XF-1 series converter offers easy installation and durability against the highest of temperatures found in today’s most sophisticated engines. Our Xtreme Flow converter will flow 68% more exhaust gases than your factory Catalytic converter which will add both performance as well as improved gas mileage."
I deffinatly would replace the Ford converter for a high flow cat even if the cost goes up due to fabrication. The Areostars cat and exhaust between it and the manifolds are JUNK.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.