Tips On Changing Glow Plugs
#2
Hook a test light up like this=
connect ground clip to hot battery post
touch tip of test light to glow plug with wire removed from glow plug.
You will get one of three results for each plug-
1 test light will not light. touch tip to any ground to verify light works. If light works then plug is an open circuit and should be replaced.
2 test light will light brightly. If it is the same brightness as when you touch a ground, the plug is shorted to ground and should be replaced.
3 the test light will light but more dimly than when touching a ground. this plug is probably OK.
If you can follow a wiring schematic you can test through the plug at the valve cover. If you get a bad reading it could be the harness or the plug so verify it when you get the valve cover off by going straight to the plug.
If you do change any plugs watch for foreign objects that could fall in the glow plug hole.
Most of the time they will slide out but I have seen them burned and deformed and they can be sticky on occasion. Good luck.
connect ground clip to hot battery post
touch tip of test light to glow plug with wire removed from glow plug.
You will get one of three results for each plug-
1 test light will not light. touch tip to any ground to verify light works. If light works then plug is an open circuit and should be replaced.
2 test light will light brightly. If it is the same brightness as when you touch a ground, the plug is shorted to ground and should be replaced.
3 the test light will light but more dimly than when touching a ground. this plug is probably OK.
If you can follow a wiring schematic you can test through the plug at the valve cover. If you get a bad reading it could be the harness or the plug so verify it when you get the valve cover off by going straight to the plug.
If you do change any plugs watch for foreign objects that could fall in the glow plug hole.
Most of the time they will slide out but I have seen them burned and deformed and they can be sticky on occasion. Good luck.
#4
I replaced all eight of mine last winter, I did the drive side first, all four of those had very high ohms or open. Then I did the passenger side later, only two where bad, thought the heater would be in the way so I waited until it got warmer to replace that side. Wish I wouldn't of, it was a whole lot easier to replace them on the heater side than the driver. none the less Follow the wires off of the GPR to the valve cover connector, if you have an ohm meter, measure each one of the glow plugs, (there are 8 pins, 4 for the GP and 4 for the injectors) all of the plugs should measure right around 1 ohm. If they don't they are bad. Also, imop, get the GPs from an international dealer, there are some out there the the tips burn off and come apart in the cylinder.
Also, as fyredawg said, double check the relay while you're under there.
Mike
Also, as fyredawg said, double check the relay while you're under there.
Mike
#5
Chad250cc4x4 check your eMail at the address you have in your profile here. If you will reply to the eMail I sent you I will send back two attachments in MS Word format that may help. This site does not allow posting or linking eMail addresses in the forums or in private messages.
Dave / Believer45
Dave / Believer45
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Many thanks for the info. The pictures are real clear, which helps an amatuer like me. It was helpful to read this now, because I am waiting for my new Tymar to arrive, and I might as well do the glow plugs then, since I will have the old intake off anyway. The info on the OEM is helpful too. Sure don't want a tip to break off.
I will post a result on the whole job when I get it done. Should be a week or so. Thanks again.
I will post a result on the whole job when I get it done. Should be a week or so. Thanks again.