Hey everyone,
I'm about to break in my new 302 i just built, and i heard something different from one of my fellow mechanics. He said that the very first time you start the engine, you do not use oil, until it runs for a few minutes. Then you stop it and add the oil. That was a little different than what ive heard. Has anyone heard this or done this? And on the side subject, how do you guys break in a re-built engine? I was going to check for oil pressure within the first 30 seconds, and then follow the gauges throughout the 500 mile break-in. Also change oil and filter after 15 minutes, then every 100 miles. Whats your guys ways?

Also, My engine is 302 bored .30 over, ported heads, 268H Comp Cam, (w/ springs, lifters, timing chain, retainers, locks), manley valves (stock diameter ), Hypereutectic Speed pro pistons w/ 9:1 compression (w/ rest of kit from Summit), MSD 6AL ignition and pro billet distributor w/ Ford Racing 9mm plug wires, edlebrock performer RPM manifold, edelbrock 600 cfm carb, hooker competition headers, edelbrock 110 gph fuel pump. Cooling system is Milodon High-flow aluminum water pump, 180 degree thermostat, and a summit aluminum racing radiator (soon i will add electric fans). I also have a march under drive pulley system, which im not running a.c., only power steering is belt driven. Everything is new except the block, crank (grinded 20/20) rods, and rod caps, which im using ARP Pro-series wave-loc rod bolts. Now i put all that for 2 reasons: 1) I wanted to give everything needed to know for break in purposes, and 2) I want someone's opinion on what horespower and torque i'll get. If i had better valves, i would be pretty near close to Edelbrock's 302 with 367 HP and 340 lb.-ft of torque.
Thanks!
Danny

 

No oil?

Man, I would never want to buy an engine that he built!

 

This guy either have it in for you and wants you to blow your newly rebuilt motor or is making a joke...

 

If you listen to this idiot, you're a bigger idiot than he is...

 

Did you say fellow mechanic? So either he is nuts or you would have to be to believe him about running a new engine without oil.

Any engine that I have ever built, and even the rebuilts that I bought, I have filled the oil pan with oil and made an adapter that replicates the end of the distributor (such as a cutoff allen wrench and some copper tube soldered together) and run the oil pump through the distributor hole until I have oil coming up into the heads. Use a drill and spin it good and fast - this will prime the system without turning over the engine. Once I know the whole system has seen oil, then I will turn the engine over by hand to get everything prelubed.

Never run an engine without oil.

No clue on the HP of the new motor. Good luck with it.

 

Nitramjr's post is 100% correct. You always prime the system before starting.

 

Thanks for the backup on that last post - us North Shore guys gotta stick together (W. Peabody here).

 

DRanchero

I missed the part of your original post about breaking in a rebuilt engine....I have always had pretty good luck just driving the vehicle somewhat easily for the first couple thousand miles- no hard accelerating and definitely no real high RPM stuff - let everything seat first. Most new car manufacturers recommend varying your speed often - not sure I understand the reason but I do it anyway. I was also told by a pro engine rebuilder that to help things along, declerate in gear more than you normally would. If you have an automatic, downshift to second. This supposedly helps the rings seat.

I also change the oil after 500, 1000, 2000 and 3000 miles.
Oh yeah, don't forget to put some oil in it

 

i just welded 2 oil pump shafts together and put it in a drill to prime my 311

 

You may know this & just didn't mention it...but don't forget to follow Comp Cams' directions as far as specifically breaking in the camshaft for the first 15-20 minutes of operation.

Also, prefill the carb float bowls, be conservative on your initial timing, & check your firing order, especially if using a 351W cam grind.

Lastly, and there is some debate on this, many cam companies & engine builders specify a conventional oil for break-in, even if you intend to use a synthetic under normal use.

 

Danny- I run a 302 that's built nearly the same as yours. Expect between 300 and 320 horsepower max. No stock heads will flow as well as the Edelbrocks, even with better valves and porting. It's still a great package though. I ended up switching to the Holley 670 Street Avenger to get more power then with the 600 Edelbrock. At the expense of a little low end torque, a built 302 likes to be over carbed a little.

 

my mustang's 302 hates the richness and i have the same 1406 600 cfm carb as danny. i need a regulator bad though.the cfm is just the air passing through the carb though i believe that is what is meant when you talk about cfm. how much low end are you talking about losing. in a truck as you know, you need low end.

 

For my break in I varied the rpm from 2000-2500 for about 30 minutes. (don't need to on roller cams). Then i drove down the road till about 4000 in 2nd gear and let decelerate to an idle. Did this about 10 times. Then drove normally. Not to hard on throttle or easy. After about 500 miles I started running harder and a 3000 switched to a synthetic motor oil.