dana 44 weakest link???
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: WA
dana 44 weakest link???
Whats the weakest link to break on the dana 44? I currently have a dana 44 and am thinking about swapping to a dana 60. Is there any upgrades that can be done to the 44 to make it stronger? I plan on running 35" tires and currently have 4.10's for gearing. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Rancho Cordova, CA USA
Your axle should hold up with those tires for light to moderate wheeling. The weak links will be the u-joints and axle shafts.
I changed mine to Warn shafts w/ CTM u-joints. Both are supose to be bomb proof. It's an expensive setup, but in a price comparision of what it will take to swap in a D60, it was cheaper and easier.
I changed mine to Warn shafts w/ CTM u-joints. Both are supose to be bomb proof. It's an expensive setup, but in a price comparision of what it will take to swap in a D60, it was cheaper and easier.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
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From: Senoia, GA
i guess you would have to define moderate wheelin cause moderate to me is Tellico 
I would say 33's would be the breaking over size but then again it depends on how you drive.
the first to go on a D44 will be the joints (u- and axle joints), then it will be your shafts since they neck down after the stub shaft, then the hubs will go....they are tiny on the D44 (not to mentiojn th plastic parts).
other then that it is a pretty damn strong axle
DJ, have you busted anything since you upgraded to the high class parts?
-cutts-
I would say 33's would be the breaking over size but then again it depends on how you drive.
the first to go on a D44 will be the joints (u- and axle joints), then it will be your shafts since they neck down after the stub shaft, then the hubs will go....they are tiny on the D44 (not to mentiojn th plastic parts).
other then that it is a pretty damn strong axle
DJ, have you busted anything since you upgraded to the high class parts?
-cutts-
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Rancho Cordova, CA USA
I'm leaving moderate as undefined
I have been told that the D44 steering knuckle setup is not as stout as the D60 kingpins, but I don't think it's that big of concern. Although, I did break a steering knuckle one day that resulted in a roll over. The whole thing was kind of a freakish accident.
Haven't had a problem with my setup yet. I just finished the Con a couple weeks ago, & I know I would have broke the old setup a few times on that trip.
I have been told that the D44 steering knuckle setup is not as stout as the D60 kingpins, but I don't think it's that big of concern. Although, I did break a steering knuckle one day that resulted in a roll over. The whole thing was kind of a freakish accident.
Haven't had a problem with my setup yet. I just finished the Con a couple weeks ago, & I know I would have broke the old setup a few times on that trip.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Bay area
the weakest parts on the D44 are going to be hubs. well if you happen to stumble accross a set of stock ford hubs from the late 70's these things are unbreakable in a D44. they are made of steel not this pot metal junk warn uses now.
the axle shafts will break alot around the u joint area if you use crap joints from your local parts store. use some spicer life series and tack weld in the clips so they do not fall out when wheeling. which puts the weakest part down on the inner shafts right before the splines where they next down.
alloys and CTM's are good but not bomb proof. I broke 2 warn stubs with my 44 when I had 38's. now I grew up and have a nice 60 under the front.
the axle shafts will break alot around the u joint area if you use crap joints from your local parts store. use some spicer life series and tack weld in the clips so they do not fall out when wheeling. which puts the weakest part down on the inner shafts right before the splines where they next down.
alloys and CTM's are good but not bomb proof. I broke 2 warn stubs with my 44 when I had 38's. now I grew up and have a nice 60 under the front.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Pittsburgh
I'm running 35's on a 44 and have completely unloaded the frontend in 4low/superlow and had it come back down under better than 1/2 throttle and haven't lost anything except the alignment on my TTB. If you're trail running, there's nothing wrong with a 44 on 35's under a fullsize. Over that and yes, you WILL start to have issues. If you're doing heavy mud or have VERY low gearing, you'll snap stuff with no warning. Liek was said, tack weld the caps in place and the neck down is the weak link. Carry a set of spare axles and you'll be fine. Replace them with warns or CTMs if you get tired of breakage.
On a side note, I also knew a guy with a 4 speed, a 460, 44's, and a 44 and he broke a set of shafts EVERY time he went out.
EDIT: Warn started making their hubs out of aluminum to move the weakest link out. It's easier to replace a hub than an axle, plus kiling an axle can kill a diff. Thank warn and carry a spare set or a set of drive flanges(have a set off of my dad's scout II ). When the hubs break, return them and get a new set.
Justin
On a side note, I also knew a guy with a 4 speed, a 460, 44's, and a 44 and he broke a set of shafts EVERY time he went out.
EDIT: Warn started making their hubs out of aluminum to move the weakest link out. It's easier to replace a hub than an axle, plus kiling an axle can kill a diff. Thank warn and carry a spare set or a set of drive flanges(have a set off of my dad's scout II
). When the hubs break, return them and get a new set.Justin
Last edited by hoxiii; Sep 1, 2004 at 09:41 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 18,423
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From: iowa
I run a D44, the biggest thing I can say is DO NOT use the greasable ujoints these allow mud, and water to enter through the grease jerk not a good thing, the spicers mentioned above are great, and really not to bad for price, for the hubs if it is a daily driver just run the warns, and return them like hoxie said but if mainly a play toy get rid of the hubs, and put in a set of the old full time hubs, they are one piece steel, and won't break, nad if you are in 4x4 most of the time anyway why do you need to have selectable hubs.
Biggest thing to remember is backlash is the number one killer of differentials so set it up towards the tight side, and you will eliminate most of the problems, and check your ujoints on a regular bases before you head out, replace when neccesisary and this will help you from getting stranded alot.
I only running 34" tires on the front but I do run 4.88 gears, and quit a bit of Hp, and haven't broken anything on my front end yet not to say I won't but maintanace, and proper setup will allow for alot more strength, than people give the 44 credit for.
Biggest thing to remember is backlash is the number one killer of differentials so set it up towards the tight side, and you will eliminate most of the problems, and check your ujoints on a regular bases before you head out, replace when neccesisary and this will help you from getting stranded alot.
I only running 34" tires on the front but I do run 4.88 gears, and quit a bit of Hp, and haven't broken anything on my front end yet not to say I won't but maintanace, and proper setup will allow for alot more strength, than people give the 44 credit for.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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Me and some other locals here have had breakage issues with the stock spider gears- moreso than u-joints in my own opinion. solve that with a Powr-Lok, they have 4 spiders instead of 2
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: WA
I forgot to mention that my Dana 44 is the early version with the enclosed knuckles. I don't know if that makes much difference on strength but I have replaced the upper and lower bearings on each knuckle along with new wiper seals as well. One of the plus sides to this design is that no mud or dirt will enter into the knuckle.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Coutts Canada
One point that should be made (that is if you run a manual tranny) The harder you dump the clutch the more stuff will break(u-joints) Me and a buddy have been hittin the mud boggs and we each have simlar setups other than my is an 81 with the TTB (noth are 44's) and a 400 and his is a 73 with a solid axle and a 390 (we both run 35x16 boggers) and he has broke a u-joint every time out and i have yet to break something, the difference is he dumps the clutch at about 3500, and i preload the clutch then dump the clutch as i hit the gas. If you want it to live as is make sure that when wheelin hard, try to be easy on it at the the most stressful times of wheelin.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Richmond, CA
As been said before, in stock form, the u-joints are the weak links, then the axles. After that the drive flanges and the hubs.
One solution andone of the Best up grades for the Dana 44 Front(Which is something I'm doing with my rig) or Rear is putting in a 35 spline ARB, Axles to match, And of coarse CTM or OX U-Joints. I have a 90 Bronco with TTB 44 up front. I just received my 35 splined ARB a week or two ago. Haven't installed it yet, but working on it. I have a spare housing that I'm getting setup for it, along with getting the exterior of the housing powder coated. I already have had the 4.56 gears and OX U-Joints for about a month before, while I was waiting for the ARB.
One solution andone of the Best up grades for the Dana 44 Front(Which is something I'm doing with my rig) or Rear is putting in a 35 spline ARB, Axles to match, And of coarse CTM or OX U-Joints. I have a 90 Bronco with TTB 44 up front. I just received my 35 splined ARB a week or two ago. Haven't installed it yet, but working on it. I have a spare housing that I'm getting setup for it, along with getting the exterior of the housing powder coated. I already have had the 4.56 gears and OX U-Joints for about a month before, while I was waiting for the ARB.
New User
Joined: Aug 2004
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The dana 44's weakest link is that it is not a dana 60. Swapping a dana 60 in is well worth the money, in my opinion. Just look at the diameter differences between the two. Live axle swaps are not nearly as hard as everyone makes them sound. Get yerself a nice 60 with a detroit locker and you'll wear a stupid smile like I do whenever you get in those sticky situations! Oh, and make sure you get a good track/sway bar for the new axle.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: Bay area
Originally Posted by muddy4x4lane
Get yerself a nice 60 with a detroit locker and you'll wear a stupid smile like I do whenever you get in those sticky situations!
I have to really agree with this one. when you can romp on the gas without fearing that dreaded noise of drivetrain parts exploding it is a blast.
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Senior User
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From: WA
Whats the differences in price for swapping in a dana 60 versus upgrading the dana 44 to chrome-moly 35 spline axles and CTM U-joints? I checked into getting a Dana 60 from Dynatrac and they wanted $5,600 for their basic model!!! Now, yes I know you can find them used and rebuild them yourself which is definitely what I would. However, I have been looking for awhile but have not found any 78-79 high pinion dana 60's for sale for a reasonable price. Everybody wants them so demand is high as well as the price. Thats why I thought about just upgrading the Dana 44.