I have a 92 Aerostar 4WD with a 4.0 (Eddie Bauer Version). Recently, when starting, there is an awful metal-on-metal grinding which occurs for about 1 minute after start. Then there is always a click (almost as if idle speed is changing) and the grinding instantly stops.

When getting under the van, it seems the noise is coming from the starter motor or the transmission oil pan. My guess is that the starter motor pinion is remaining pulled in after start, causing the grinding sound. Then, for one reason or another, it drops out after about 60 seconds. This will occur if you leave it in Park or back up or drive down the road. It always takes about 1 minute for the noise to instantly stop.

This occurs only during a cold start or anytime you have left the engine off for about 15 minutes or more. If you shut off the engine and then immediately restart, the noise does not occur.

Any ideas? Am I on the right track with the starter motor?

Thanks,

R. McMorris

 

The starter should be pulled and the bendix gear & transmission ring gear checked for wear. I would replace the starter as it is probably due. Sounds like it is worn, also check the bolts to insure the starter is mounted tightly. I have 128 K on my 93 AWD with no problems, but years ago had the starter on a 84 LTD Ford give the same problems as yours. Replaced it & put lock tight on the mounting bolts. Some times the starters have to be shimmed for alignment if the mounting holes are worn.

 

I would concur with Avanti's response, however be forewarned, on the AWD versions, getting the starter out is not as simple as in other models. The front driveshaft must also be detached at the differential to give sufficient room to maneuver the starter out. Even then, the fit is tight. If your reduction gears are in good shape and you have some basic skills, you may want to consider purchasing a rebuild kit and DIY, as the price for even a rebuilt unit is fairly costly. Checker Auto carries a rebuild kit.

 

Thanks Avanti and AeroColorado. It was the starter.

I talked to a local mechanic this AM and read your comments. Everyone seemed to agree it was the starter. The mechanic warned me to drive the van only if necessary, as I was risking damage to the flywheel.

I went out and bought a rebuilt starter for $90 plus a $45 core charge (when I bring back in the old starter, I will get my $45 core charge back).

It took me about 90 minutes for this job, including assembling my new jack stands, jacking up the van, and tool cleanup at the end (plus some minor interruptions from my 7 year old).

While at first it seemed like it was going to be pretty easy, I would recommend saving up your favorite foul phrases for this job.

A few things I did not know about replacing the starter were that:
-You do not need any grease for the starter. The Starter/Flywheel gears are dry.
-You do not need any type of gasket (because there is no oil within the flywheel casing). There is a gasket for the flywheel/transmission joint, and part of this metal gasket is used between the starter motor/transmission casing.
-You DO need to disconnect the battery first. In retrospect, I was pretty stupid, but somewhere I had read that it was not necessary to remove the battery cable when removing the starter, because the starter could not operate without the ignition on...but the main power for the starter comes directly from the battery, so when you start to unscrew the main power terminal, be prepared for sparks if you do not disconnect the battery first.
-I optimistically thought that on the AWD model I could get away without disconnecting the front wheel drivetrain. Sure enough, there was enough room to disconnect the two starter bolts (13mm) and wire terminals (main is 13mm nut, solenoid wire pulls straight off). The starter was free, and pulled out of the flywheel housing easily. I then realized that there was really nowhere for the starter to go. It was too big to fit through any of the spaces. So, I disconnected the front wheel drivetrain at the connection with the front differential. This is located immediately below the starter. Mark the drivetrain/differential connection with a pencil so that you can put it back on the same way. Remove the 4 10mm bolts. You will not need to completely remove the drivetrain, just push it to the side. If you lift the back of the starter up and pull the gear end out first, as AeroColorado says, you will have just enough room to pull it out. This is where those foul phrases come in real handy. Another joy of this repair was having all of the sludge, dirt, and oil dropping down in my face.

I put it all back together, and it starts great. The grinding sound is gone.

 

 

I should point out that early Aeros (at least through '89) use the old-style Ford starter with no cylindrical engagement solenoid. These starters have no juice to them unless you turn the key to 'Start', and are safe to replace with the battery still connected.

The later starters (all Taurus it seems, and Aeros after the middle of '90 ?) went to what I call the "GM" style of pinion engagement, with a cylindrical solenoid piggybacked to the top of the starter, and this starter is 'live' all the time. It's this later style that can arc-weld your oil filter band wrench if you get too energetic.

Fortunately, I've an '89

Unfortunately, I went through two rebuilt starters in a period of three years before I shelled out for a NEW Bosch starter for it. Knock on wood . . .

Regards,
Al S.