Guages not reading correctly...
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Guages not reading correctly...
Just got a '71 F250 c/s w/ 82k mi. from orig. owner. Excell shape, but noticed guages don't read right. When full, fuel tank(s) read 1/2 full. When warm, temp reads less than 1/2. And, o/p reads low. Like my old Mustang, is there a mini-voltage regulator or anything else common to all 3 guages that might account for this? Thanks
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Thanks to all
Just replaced the mini-regulator, guages now read fine. While in there I replaced burned out instrument lites, now I can read them at nite. Now if I could only get the AM radio to work......
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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That mini regulator is just a flasher unit similar to the HD 3-terminal turn signal flasher. It supplies a pulsating voltage to the gauges that averages out to be 5 volts. The fuel, temp and oil pressure gauges are all bimetal devices like a house thermostat with a heating element. The ambient temperature in the cab affects both the voltage regulator and the gauges. Both in the same way so in hot weather the gauges would read high except for the fact that the voltage regulator puts out a lower voltage offsetting the effect to some degree. It isn't perfect but it works well enuf. The main problem with the gauges on our old trucks is bad connections from one end to the other. If you understand how the gauges work it makes them easier to trouble shoot. The newer vehicles have all sorts of crazy anti slosh circuits that try to make them work better (NOT) and some have "idiot" gages that read thru a switch so they either read midrange low or high.
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From: Kentucky--GO CATS!!!
During the resto on my '69 I've been trying to get all the wiring issues straightened out, but my gauges still aren't working--might this mini regulator be my issue as well??
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Post Fiend
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From: Brea CA
Eric, how did you know the IVR and gauges are temperature compensated? Yeah, the gauges need less power when it's hot and the IVR pumps out less when hot too. Conversely, when it's cold the gauges need more power and the IVR delivers it. I've never seen it explained anywhere but it you analyze it closely, that's the way it works.
BigBloo, if all your gauges don't work then it could be the regulator but check and clean all your connections first.
BigBloo, if all your gauges don't work then it could be the regulator but check and clean all your connections first.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
If you want to pull the radio out remove the glove box liner and remove through this open area.. The dash cover pad kind of the same way with glove box out little studed nut at top under side of dash, also dash cluster has to be removed to get a pad nuts for the driver side . my 2cents
orich
orich
Posting Legend
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Originally Posted by BB
Eric, how did you know the IVR and gauges are temperature compensated? Yeah, the gauges need less power when it's hot and the IVR pumps out less when hot too. Conversely, when it's cold the gauges need more power and the IVR delivers it. I've never seen it explained anywhere but it you analyze it closely, that's the way it works.
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From: Kentucky--GO CATS!!!
I'm curious guys....I just drove all over the better part of Central Kentucky today looking for this mini regulator---tried Auto Zone, NAPA, O'Reilley's, Advanced, the ever dreaded dealer parts department, and finally found one at Carquest- actually went ahead and bought a second one just in case....how much have you generally paid for yours??- Ford dealer wanted to charge me $114.....the ones I found at Carquest were $28/each...granted mine is a '69 with male/female blades, but roughly looks exactly like the pic above...I was just shocked by the price.
Post Fiend
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From: Brea CA
Originally Posted by Torque1st
Ahem, Actually the IPVR is not compensated but the "system" is. I have been playing with "electricals" since the early 60's. My mother was afraid to come into my room when I was a kid for fear of electrocution. I have been working with them my entire life.