Well Beeboy I hope that picture of the diesel airbox you linked to is the right one cause I just picked one up. Haven't put it on yet but looks like the snorkel will have to be lengthened. Also the bottom of it looks like a small sub stack. One I found in the yard had a plate just inside the air cleaner where the snorkel comes into, to help force the air around the rest of the cleaner, the other one didn't have it. I don't know if that will have an effect on flow or not. It's easy enough to cut it out if I don't want it there though.

 

Tasty.. I hope it fits under the hood! I may have to make a junk yard trip this weekend as well. Will you be able to connect it to the factory cold air port next to the radiator? Do you see a way to hook up the heat stove pipe thing to it?

 

Is the reason you shouldnt use an open element air cleaner because it will pull in warm air?

 

What I'm doing is (1 day) getting the GT500 style twin scoop and fabbing up an isolator tray to get ram air.

 

You can try these guys,but it's not cheap.


http://www.ramairbox.com/

 

Yes, it pulls in super hot air in from under the hood in the summer. In the winter the colder air and humidity can cause the carb to freeze up. This can cause all kinds of strange symptoms. Basically a skin of ice forms on the inside of the carb that blocks fuel flow. It melts almost instantly when you shut the truck off so it can be very hard to diagnose. Those open elements look purdy and sound cool but they are not worth a damn on anything but a trailer queen.

 

Thanks Eric, I have had that problem in the winter and couldnt figure out why.

 

I had the same problem once on a truck that the PO had removed the snorkel. I had it on a VW also. Figured it out on both vehicles with some real quick pop the hood and look see actions. In both cases the ice was just melting as I looked and vanished in front of my eyes. It can also happen at certain speeds and vanish when the throttle changes. It is a maddening problem that is best avoided by using the OEM equipment or slightly modified. I do change the temp setting on my hot air control to make it cycle at about 70-75°F. Many of the OEM temp controls are set much hotter. To set those controls the threaded screw is heated with a torch to break the locktite loose and then the tube can be turned for adjustment. It takes patience tho and you will probably ruin a couple.

I wonder how many of the guys that run open element air cleaners even realize they have a problem...? -Not many would be my guess.

 

Took too long but finally got around to putting the ford diesel air cleaner on my Edelbrock 1406. I had to make a new 71/2 inch long center stud for the hold down. Fits under the hood fine and plenty of room from both the firewall and brake booster. Got the stock 4 inch snorkel hose. Actually 2 different pieces. Everything I looked at in the yard to grab the air from the front of the truck seemed too restrictive till I found a 4" round chimney hat type of deal on a ch#$% Suburban. Don't know what engine was originally in it. Still have to cut the hole in the radiator support wall on the drivers side. It will be a clean look though when it's done and should suck plenty of air. No provision for heat though. I'm gonna have to see if it's a problem when it gets cold and figure something out.

 

I might have to check this out. I put my new F350 booster on the F150 this weekend, and the mustang air cleaner has to go now. Back to the cheesy factory setup until I find something bigger. Thanks for the update!

 

tastyklair, Look for a heated air control valve from a bigger vehicle that can be installed in the hose.

Another thing to do is use that foam backed aluminum tape and insulate the inside of the air box. You will need to clean the inside real good with hot water and soap then brake cleaner. You could insulate the outside but it does not look as good.

 

Eric, can you show some pics of your setup?

 

Unfortunately no, my truck is in storage and my camera was stolen. I have a Mopar air box with a Ford snorkel on my engine at the moment. I don't think anyone would even be able to tell it wasn't some limited production Ford unit. Remove the Mopar sticker and get a good sticker from MototHaven for it. http://www.motorhaven.com/customer/p...&cat=47&page=2
The second snorkel is not mounted yet but the hole is there with a block off plate. I use Snowmobile track pop rivets to secure the snorkel. It gives it a "special" look, not like plain pop rivets. The second snorkel has the hot air intake blocked off so that side will only pull in cold air. The air temp sensor is mounted in the Mopar stock location inside the air filter element and is adjusted to keep the intake air at around 70°F. The worst part will be building the heat stove to go around the headers. I have ceramic coated headers so the sheet metal can not touch them.

 

Well, I picked up one of the diesel air cleaners today at the junkyard...and it hits my hood. I guess it is time to pull out the carb spacer and see if I can get enough clearance. Talk about a huge filter in that thing!

 

I have the 1 inch spacer under my carb and it fit. Are you using the edelborck carb or a holley? How high is your spacer? Are you sure the stud isn't too long?