Hi. Took me a while to find an intermitent
"thunk" in the front end of my 96 Aerostar. Could even feel it through the floor under my feet.
Numerous times I jacked up the front end and found no play in the front tires, etc.
Yesterday, I jacked the car up by way of the lower control arm (instead of the frame) and found the lower ball joint is completely shot.
I called Ford and they say its not replaceable... gotta replace the whole lower control arm for $202 (parts only). Auto parts place says the joint can be replaced separately but you need a press to do it.
Another auto place says it can be replaced for about $30 dollars and a portable press can be rented/loaned to do the job.
Anybody done this job?
96 Aero 4.0 AWD
Thanks, KenP

 

I am just in the process of replacing both lower ball joints on an AWD '91. I have the joints, which can be purchased separately from the lower arm. They are held in by two snap rings. Remove those and the joint can be pressed out. I am also replacing the control arm bushings at the same time which are also pressed in. I used the occasion to buy a 12 ton shop press from Harbour Freight for $99. After the work is completed, I will post additional information.

 

Did both lower ball joints on my 97 AWD using the ball joint press u can get from parts supplier. Take your time and u shud not have any problems. Now only if the uppers were as easy.

 

Aerocolorado- Didn't see any snap rings, although I didn't look for any. Control arm was pretty dirty and I could have easily missed them.
Are there two per ball joint? One above and one below the arm? or just one?
Thanks, KenP

 

Hey Aerocolorado, where did you find the lower control arm bushings and are they the same for a 2wd? Please post your info when you get them changed cause it's time to do mine.

 

KenP, there are two rings per joint, small ones, above and below the control arm plate, on the AWD model. The 2WD uses a different type.

Cajunbull, you can find them via Parts America (partsamerica.com). They list both a McQuay-Norris and TRW versions. I ordered the TRW versions, which turned out to be made by Federal-Mogul. There is one place during the order process where you are asked to select whether you want bushings for the FRONT or REAR. Selecting FRONT, you are presented with a list of bushings with the description 'lower control arm, front' as well as 'lower control arm, rear'. I incorrectly thought they were differentiating between the front and back bushings of the lower front control arm, but 'rear' actually is for the rear control arm. (So I found out after the parts arrived.) They come as each, so you need two front bushings per side. They are larger than you think, about the size of a tennis ball.

I'll post more later on.

 

Correction to the reply to KenP concerning two snap rings. Upon inspecting the new ball joint, only one snap ring was found. Refering again to my reference illustration, what appeared to be a lower snap ring is in fact, a small flange around the outer head of the ball joint. I apologize for any confusion generated by this. There is only one snap ring per ball joint.

 

Using the loaner ball joint tools from Autozone, which did not fit exactly and a large impact socket as a press, along with my impact wrench, I did the lowers with min. hassle. I have since bought the complete OTC balljoint set. Works pretty well, at least on my (former) BII.

Best way to do the uppers

1) grind off the bottom of the rivets,
2) drill the rivets

3a) force the balljoint from the arm with an air hammer chisel
or
3b)cut off the rivets from the balljoint with a cut off tool between the arm/balljoint making sure you do not cut into the arm

4)use an air chisel to knock the left over rivet out of the arm. A quick skim over the top of the control arm with the cut off tool before you try busting out the balljoint rivets helps because the bucked rivet expands between the balljoint and arm.

Buy (do not use the bolts in the ball joint kit from Autozone- they are not "grade 8" and are weak and brittle - total junk) grade 8 or 10.8/12 (metric) bolts and red RTV the mating surface and holes before you bolt everything up. When done, then rtv the edges of the control arm/balljoint and tops and bottoms of the bolts.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 30-Sep-02 AT 02:23 PM (EST)]RE: Lower ball joint replacement
E-4WD model only

Some thoughts- after removing both lower ball joints.

1. So little surface area is available around the joint, a conventional gear puller is useless. A Pittman-arm style remover as shown in the manuals was rented. Ordinarily, the outboard access slot for the puller arm passes through the thin sheet metal brake dust shield. If the slot in the brake dust cover is slightly higher than the spindle arm slot (as was my case), the puller arm will severely distort the dust shield. The only way to remove the shield is to pull the bearing hub.

2. I experimented with two alternative removal methods. Using a "pickle fork", the ball joint separated fairly easily, although it destroyed the rubber grease boot in the process.
Since the first joint separated far easier than expected, I unscrewed the second ball joint nut until flush with the end of the stud. A single sharp blow with a 3# mallet separated it easily from the spindle. No damage to the threads as the nut could be unscrewed the rest of the way by finger pressure.

3. The lower ball joint on the E-4WD control arm is pressed in place and pressed EXTREMELY tight. The design of the lower control arm is such that all the curves and angles present a problem getting the control arm to lie flat enough to easily press out the joint. Using a 12 ton press, both joints literally exploded out of the control arm when they finally let go. There was no gradual pressing as with bearing races, etc. I had applied both PB Blaster and WD-40 several times the day before, but upon examination, the inner retaining surfaces on the control arm were completely untouched (dry) by either agent. Obviously, this does not aid in removal.

4. For such a difficult removal, installation of the new joint is far easier. Again, the shape of the control arm provides no level surface and the small flange available to work with almost guarantees you will ruin the rubber boot if the control arm slips ever so slightly while pressing in the new joint.
Surprisingly, once greased and started in straight, the new joint can be tapped into place using a brass drift and hammer around the flange edges. I was suspicious the new joint was undersized, but a quick micrometer check confirmed the new one is identical to the old.
For anyone still reading this far, in retrospect, I wonder if the act of pressing out the old joint distorts the mounting hole, binding the joint, hence the difficulty in pressing out the old joint. I would suggest at least trying to drive out the old joints first with a hammer and punch- the reverse of installation.

There will be a separate thread dealing with removal/installation of the lower control arm bushings.

 

Well, did the job today. Unlike a previous poster's experience, my lower joint came out pretty easily. Used the "loan a tool" ball joint press from Autozone. Didn't fit perfectly, but it did push the joint out without much effort. The loaner "press" doesn't work to push the new joint in; it doesn't have the right adapters ... but a very large socket and a 2 lb hammer got it to seat OK.
I also removed the tie rod end for more clearance.
On the AWD, make sure you release the axle from the hub. I didn't, and the axle came loose from the outer C/V when I pulled the hub to clear the joint. Had to take the axle out and disassemble to get the axle spline back in the joint... took more time than the ball joint repair!
KenP