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I've did a search and read through other threads about this problem, but can't seem to solve it.
If I drive my truck about 30 miles or so, then turn it off, it will not restart unless i let it sit and cool down for about 15 minutes. When I turn the key, it gives me that slow, almost dead battery sound. If I let it "cool down"
heres what i have done thus far...
1:replaced the starter(checked it before I left the store)
2:replaced solenoid in engine compartment
3:replaced hotwire from solenoid to starter
4:replaced battery
5:replaced both battery cables to solenoid
6:checked timing chain for play and went ahead and changed it, and gear since I had it opened up.
7: replaced distributor cap,rotor, plugs, wires
8:replaced air filter(haynes book listed it in trubshooting section for non hotstart)
9:cleaned IAC valve and throttle body just for kicks. improved my idle immensely, but didn't help with thte hotstart trubs
I cannot get this truck to give me codes at all. maybe light is burned out?
so i tried doing it with just a cheap light, (no volt meter) and still no go
Had the same problem in a 91. I know you stated you did this already, but it fixed my problem. What size cables did you use from solenoid to starter/battery and from negative to ground. And where did you ground negative cable. I used the biggest cables I could find, actually custom made them out of welding cables. And I moved my ground to a point a lot closer to the battery, right by the alternator. The factory spot for the ground is way to far away and much to prone to corrosion IMO. Hope this helps.
Had the same problem in a 91. I know you stated you did this already, but it fixed my problem. What size cables did you use from solenoid to starter/battery and from negative to ground. And where did you ground negative cable. I used the biggest cables I could find, actually custom made them out of welding cables. And I moved my ground to a point a lot closer to the battery, right by the alternator. The factory spot for the ground is way to far away and much to prone to corrosion IMO. Hope this helps.
T. Roberts
UFD Local 1147
just the regular size ones you can buy at autozone..I will check for larger ones, and replace them, as they are fairly cheap.
But,wouldn't you think that if this was my problem, then it would do it all the time instead of just when its hot?
How big of a battery did you get? I had the same symptoms and replacing the battery seems to have taken care of the problem. I got an 84 month battery from advance - has 1000 CA and 850 CCA. I don't see the problem being anywhere other than in the starter system since the only trouble is turning slow. Did you check the cable from the negative to the engine block? Any ground straps missing?
The check engine light in '87 isn't even hooked up, so you will have to use the volt meter method.
How big of a battery did you get? I had the same symptoms and replacing the battery seems to have taken care of the problem. I got an 84 month battery from advance - has 1000 CA and 850 CCA. I don't see the problem being anywhere other than in the starter system since the only trouble is turning slow. Did you check the cable from the negative to the engine block? Any ground straps missing?
The check engine light in '87 isn't even hooked up, so you will have to use the volt meter method.
I'm not sure what the battery is, but its a big daddy..
if it were a grounding problem, wouldn't it do it on a cold start sometimes to?
it never does, only when its hot.
I thought that perhaps the bushings in the starter were heating up, and not letting the starter spin until they cooled down...but I replaced the starter and it still did it.
With the smaller and or corroded wires the heat causes resistance in the lines to the starter. Also coupled with the older engine and components it will take a little more juice to get it started. Try the biggest lines you can find, and clean the ground area on the engine real good. I also suggest finding the closest area to the battery for the ground and using the shortest fattest cable that will reach. Also try Napa or someplace like that for the cables. The cheapy ones are usually crimped or just bolted on and don't make as good a connection and are more prone to corrosion and resistance. If you have the ability or know someone who does, make your own lines and solder the cable to the cable ends.
More heat = more reistance in the wires, and that means less current able to reach the starter, causing the starter to spin slower. If there is corrosion or a bad connection somewhere, it would probably be most noticable when it is hot. I don't know if this is your problem, since you replaced a lot of stuff, but it's something to look for if you haven't already.