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another vote for the NP205...undisputed king of tcases and far as strength. Another thing to consider, not sure if it was mentioned, 10.25 will allow you to keep your VSS, D60 will not. D60 or dare i say...14 Bolt
Who is it again that makes the twin stick kit for the NP205?
Check out my site for some info on the twin stick. Super easy to do and dirt cheap. I spent $100 on the sticks but you can make them yourself if you're a cheap turd like Fishy. http://ivanribic.clubfte.com/page2.html
Since you can run 35 spline axles in the D60 and those axles are 1.5" in diameter, I'd go that route. There is also a weight penalty with the Sterling assdragger. The advantage of the F150 would be less weight. The NP205 is pretty darn heavy, especially with the 203 doubler. Guys run the Atlas II's in Big Broncos and they weigh in at 4500-5500 pounds depending on how they are built. They are gear driven and twin-sticked from the box. You may save some money doing the NP205 & 203 doubler but don't count on it. I consider that a longer term project that requires foraging for parts unless you happen to have them already. The nitrous thing well be what may make things interesting and not the 400hp from you "stroker."
Dang, its gettin tough to deceide. As far as the tone ring (VSS) goes, you can have them installed into the D60.
I made a pile of calls today and the general concensus is that the Atlas with the 32 spline is not too bad, claims are 950 lb/ft on the input side. But on the other side is the 205, no mention of "not too bad", it can handle whatever is dished out. Now the 205 with the Klune sounds pretty cool, but I doubt I'll be doing much crawlin with this rig. The Jeep takes over there.
Your right on the nitrous being the possible thorn in the pile here rlh, humm. I'd like to say I wouldent be using the bottle except for the occasional race, yeah right. I need to make up my mind on this in the next few days, trying to get everything co-ordinated to be put togeather about the same time.
Here's a few more monkey wrenches that still need to get ironed out before this part of the project can be completed too.
Brakes, will the F350 master cylinder bolt up in the F150 for these new axles?
How about shock choices, guys? Long travel resovoir shocks or something adjustable like the RS9000 hooked up to the compressor?
Humm, gonna need some sorta step, got two kids, those sidewinders are kinda cool, outta the way unless you need them, but geez, what a price. Humm, hoops or nerf bars, I dunno, still like the bling retracts.
How about steering stabilizers, just go with standard, or hydro assist?
Last edited by 94F150-408; Aug 30, 2004 at 08:40 PM.
Check out my site for some info on the twin stick. Super easy to do and dirt cheap. I spent $100 on the sticks but you can make them yourself if you're a cheap turd like Fishy. http://ivanribic.clubfte.com/page2.html
hey now! i don't have all that green stuff for the bling stuff like you do
plus i can say i made it myslef and i don't have to rely on someone elses craftsmanship!
another vote for the NP205...undisputed king of tcases and far as strength. Another thing to consider, not sure if it was mentioned, 10.25 will allow you to keep your VSS, D60 will not. D60 or dare i say...14 Bolt
A tone ring can be installed into a D60 and the 14 bolt is a worse assdragger than a 10.25. If a person was building a 1-ton K5, the 14-bolt would be the perfect choice with a D60 out front. Plus there is the weight penalty, may as well go with a D70 and be done with it, ahhhh, the tone ring . . .
Edit: The F350 brakes will work, but you will need the master cyl. AND booster and wheel cylinders from the F350. There are several writeups on the web on doing this. It gets tricky on what year of 1-ton brakes to intall into a F150 or Bronco though.
Just a side note: I don't think rear Dana 60s are 35 spline axles. There was just a big debate over on pirate saying there wasn't such a thing. I think you have to bore out the spindles for 35 spline.
Also, I wouldn't waste money on the 205 now. The BW-1356 will hold on quite nice for a good while.
I was just checkin out Dynatrak, dang those are nice. They have D60 rear FF with the 35 spline, and they have a dual piston disc brake setup, do you think the F350 master Cylinder/Booster will work with their set up?
Yeah, your probably right breman, on the 1356 being able to hold on for awhile. I'm inclined to want to do the whole shebang at once though, so I can get the driveshafts and everything all buttoned up. Plus then were back to the question of if the 1356 might not break, then why the heck would a gear drive Atlas break?
Last edited by 94F150-408; Aug 30, 2004 at 09:52 PM.
Also, I wouldn't waste money on the 205 now. The BW-1356 will hold on quite nice for a good while.
the internals of the case are pretty dang stout but the first time something bangs against that magnesium case it is either gonna crack or split in half! i hit my 208 on a rock and now i get fluid everywhere! my 205 will be in my truck in the next couple of weeks hopefully!
Just a side note: I don't think rear Dana 60s are 35 spline axles. There was just a big debate over on pirate saying there wasn't such a thing. I think you have to bore out the spindles for 35 spline.
Also, I wouldn't waste money on the 205 now. The BW-1356 will hold on quite nice for a good while.
Well now, I guess those boys over at pirate never heard of Currie Enterprises. Go hear and check it out. Currie Dana 60 They also have a 35 spline semifloat rear with 9" type housing ends. They have the Currie axles available for them.
Edit: Cat# 60-1004F $1,413.95 Dana 60 Rear Housing built to your specifications with Warn HD Floater Kit, 35 spline alloy axles, steel cover and yoke. (Limited Brake Selection)
Additional Edit: That price probably doesn't include the carrier, r & P.
Some of the D60's came stock with 35 spline axles though they're not common. I've also heard of guys using D70 axles in a D60 housing though it appears to be a lot of hassle. Plus, as rlh pointed out, there are a lot of aftermarket manufacturers of the 35 spline axles.
In terms of the transfer case, if you're not looking for a low crawl gear (I thought you were when you mentioned the Atlas) then go with a 205. The weight difference between that and the Atlas won't mean anything unless you're looking at completely gutting the whole truck and running 2 gallons of fuel. Until you get to that point the extra 70-80 pounds means nothing. And from what I understand you're not building a dedicated mud drag truck.
I don't know about Dyanatrac, but currie will install a carrier and r&p that you provide to them. I went in with an Eaton ELocker and Ford Racing R&P and Timken bearings. They were down the road from me at the time which saved a bundle on shipping.
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