[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-Dec-02 AT 02:17 PM (EST)]What would the symptoms of a blown intake gasket be? My van just all of a sudden starting popping this morning, like an exhaust pop. I noticed in the back of the engine where the intake meets the head, passenger side, it is wet.oil It looks like part of the gasket is missing. Has anyone ever changed this? Any tips?
Thanks

 

If the intake gasket is blown, then the engine could run lean, burn oil, leak oil or ping. Backfiring can occur.

Replacing the intake gasket is real fun. I haven't done it except while replacing the heads. You can search the message board for tips. Several other people have replaced the heads as well and there may have been someone who did just the intake gasket. In general, you will most likely have to take off a lot of stuff (AC compressor, alternator, coil pack, etc.) just to remove the valve covers (which bolt to the intake). If it's in your way, remove it. It's easier than struggling with poor access.

I would recommend using the Ford gaskets for the valve covers, or at the very least, stay away from cork gaskets. And if you can stand the down time and you have a lot of miles on the engine, remove the fuel injectors and take them to a place that has an ultrasonic injector cleaner.

 

Would a blown intake gasket cause the van to not start? It started once this morning and that was it. The second time I tried it just started backfiring. Now, it just turns over and backfires. In the back passenger side, number 3 cylinder seems to be leaking something out in between the intake and the head. Would ether be a sufficient way to tell if the intake gasket is blown? Any more suggestions would be appreciated.
New oxygen sensor, fuel pressure regulator, air idle control valve, thermostat, TPS, plugs and wires 6 months ago, CPS, windshield.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Dec-02 AT 07:37 PM (EST)]I suppose if the gasket were leaking enough, it could cause the van to not start. Can you tell if any of the seal is blown out? I'm not sure about ether, I usually use propane or carb cleaner to detect intake leaks. I guess ether would do a similar thing. The object is to try to get the air/fuel mixture closer to where it should be. But be careful no matter what you use, you don't want to let the fumes build up and create a hazardous situation. Try to get someone who can feel around that area or spray carb cleaner while you try to start the engine to see if you can detect the leak. And be careful, if the engine backfires, it may push gases out of the gasket if it's leaking. Which leads me to another thought. If the engine has backfired, make sure that all of your vacuum hoses are hooked up on the octopus. If any have been blown off, that could be the source of your problem. You should probably check the vacuum lines before you do anything else.

 

ATT: Mikeman
Your assumption was correct. As I was looking in the back, I did notice a vacuum line off the tree. They are all cracked and old, I will be replacing them when it warms up. I decided to check the intake bolts. They were so loose, it took a turn and a little bit to tighten them up. Then I tried it, and it fired it right up. It sounds way different now. Obviously, the intake leak was there for a while. Anything I might have wrecked driving like that? The condensor I am talking about is right off the coil pack, passenger side. I was talking to someone, they said it was for the radio, but I wasn't sure, that's why I asked. thank you

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Dec-02 AT 09:54 AM (EST)]Oh, that condensor. I forgot about that one, I was only thinking about the air conditioning. Yes, that one is for the radio. It filters out noise that the ignition system generates.

Good thinking on the intake bolts. I too have noticed that they tend to loosen up over time but I should have mentioned it earlier.