Having a difficult time doing a retro to my 65 F100; I've recently installed a 75 302cid with a mild performance rebuiltwith a C-6. The probably is once I put the trans into reverse or any drive gears the engine dies if I'm not feathering the pedal; and once I let off it dies as well; The spec's on the engine are 10.5 to 1 flat top piston; bore 60 over; 269 comp cam; 650 vaccum secondary 4barrel carb; factory exhaust manifolds; holley dist; dual plane performance intake; yesterday I installed a B&M 2000 stall thinking it would help; I was told you only need a stall up if grade was over 270 on cam. I ask some local mechanic's and even ones that race; also told by Comp cam & Summit a stall is not needed on this type of cam; We estimate around 350 h.p. I guess the next step could be my carb jets?????
Thanks for any advice or guideance!!!!
Mitch

 

Yeah I was thinking either timing or carb. Might check in the fuel delivery section.

 

Whats your idle set at? should be around 750-800rpms . if its starving for fuel that to could be a problem

 

Havn't check rpm;with either a dwell or tach; havn't installed one yet; I leaninig towards timing & possible distributor; going to change out distributor as soon as I get a chance to see if its faultly; I appericate your imput and hope to solve this issue soon; I got a decent carb; its called a Quick Fuel; the designer is retired from Holley; builds his own brand of carbs; the engine cranks right up and until under any strand does it dies.
Thanks again for your thoughts;
Mitch

 

holley's really arent the best for a 4x4. they have flooding issues and they blow out power valves constantly. are you bowls fuel of fuel? your fuel pump might be toast to or clogged fuel filter

 

I'm sorry if I mis-informed you; the truck is a 65 F100 SWB 2wd; everything is new minus the block & heads; Truck only has 6 miles from muffler shop to the house.
Mitch

 

how many miles on motor? have you done a compression test.

 

This engine was build this last winter with all the modification mention above, it has been driven only six miles at less than 45 mph from muffler shop; We trailor it to the shop to install dual flow masters prior to running it on the street. I've havn't ran any test on it so to answer your compression level can't tell; the piston's are 10.5:1 flat top.
My builder thinks the distributor which is a new Holley distributor is cutting out during running especially once you attempt to put it in gear.
Not high speed enough yet on how to check compression...

Mitch

 

go to your favorite auto parts store, ask for a compression tester (gauge-$20 or so) go home mark plug wires for reference and remove them all from the spark plugs, remove all spark plugs, unhook coil plug wire at the coil, screw gauge into each cylinder, get someone to jump in the truck and hit the key, allowing the engine to turn over 6-7 times, pay attention to how quick the psi builds up and record each cylinders max psi on paper, using some system to determine which cylinder is making X amount of psi...you probably know but the cylinders are 1-4 closest to farthest facing front of engine passenger side and 5-8 closest to farthest facing engine drivers side, remove and repeat on next cylinder.

Just for the sake of asking, was the cam broken in/engine?

good luck

 

Does the carb have a dashpot on it? I'm also inclined to believe it's either your idle settings on the carb, or your spark advance (mechanical or vacuum) is set up enough. Once the tranny engages, the engine is lugged down below adeqaute vacuum, or the weights aren't being held out to keep the spark advanced.

You definately don't need the higher stall speed with a cam grind like you have.

 

Thanks JW for the compression 101 class ; I'll try that check this weekend; also the Carb has vaccum advance and no dash pod like on my 6 cycle engine to the best of my knowledge; The cam and engine where broken in during our first crank up and a couple of checks after that when we were checking timing and oil psi. Remember your dealing with a Shade Tree Mechanic with alot of Leaves Missing?

Thanks for your comments and I'll post the result's as soon as possible.

Mitch

 

Auto trannies require a dashpot on carbureted engines. Even if it isn't the cause of your current predicament, I recommend putting one on. It keeps the throttle from slamming shut and killing the engine. Of course that isn't necessary on a manual tranny since drivetrain momentum keeps the engine turning.

 

Pops; don't really understand what a dash pod is'. I do have a vaccum line running from my intake to the modeluar value on the trans; if this is the same thing your talking about.

 

Look on the throttle side of the carbeuretor where the throttle stop is. There should be a black rubber capped thing bolted onto the carb body where the throttle lever rests against when its idling. There should be a little bolt comin out with a pad on the end that goes up against the throttle lever. This is where you adjust idle speed.