Transmission question
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 40
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From: Northern Virginia
Transmission question
Ok, when shifting from park to reverse i almost always get a firm jolt. Same with reverse to drive...slightly less though. The other day my dad was driving my truck for the first time...and he has a tendency to slide the car into drive before the car stops completely. For some reason the car shifts smoother when you do this...so my question is...Is this harmful for the trans? I would assume it is..if it is why does the car shift smoother when you do it?
btw i have a 95 with a 351 and the sought after *sarcasm* E40D.
btw i have a 95 with a 351 and the sought after *sarcasm* E40D.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 573
Likes: 0
From: Medina, Tn.
Have you checked your u-joints ? Also could be the slip joint at the rear of the shaft. You can take the shaft off, remove the band holding the boot on, pull the shaft apart and clean and lube the slip joint. Put the shaft back together, lube it real good again and attach the boot back on with a plastic wire tie.
Good luck,
Good luck,
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Canada
I have a the EXACT same problem. Has been driving me nuts for weeks now. I just paid $1800 CDN to have my E40D rebuilt with the upgrades and it still seems to shift hard from Park to Reverse and Drive. I figure its not the tranny because the guy that did my transmission was one the of the best. This doesn't really solve our problem but thought I'd add that in. Please let me know what you find out! Good Luck!
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 49
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I have talked to several people and one guy said that its just the way it is. He has seen trucks that have had 100's of thousand's of kms on it with no ill effects from this clunk. Live with it.
My truck does the same. Lubing slip joint may help somewhat.
My truck does the same. Lubing slip joint may help somewhat.
Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Clunk, Eo4d, Updates, Etc.
Hello, It's interesting reading this threadandI thought I'd throw in my 2 cents.
I had the clunk for a couple years and found mine this year when the Bronco developed a vibration. The U joints were bad. There are no lub fittings on them and the mileage just took it's toll because lack of lub.
Next because we talking EO4D I just had a catatrophic failure. Had EO4D trans overhauled ($2K) last year @ 97,000 miles. This week @ 110,000 miles the planetary gears failed. The explanation from the New Trans Shop is this:
Th early EO4Ds had an aluminum carrier assembly with a brass thrust plate. The plate and assembly wears down and blocks lubrication to the gears. Thus gear failure. There are no replacement parts for the original unit, so the Old Trans Shop didn't touch it. The new assembly is expensive. The updated assembly has a plate with needle bearings, this to solve the problem. So the old shop skipped the update $, so I can spend another $1000 a year later.
So WARNING if you have an early EO4D with the old design still in it, your miles are limited.
Shafted
I had the clunk for a couple years and found mine this year when the Bronco developed a vibration. The U joints were bad. There are no lub fittings on them and the mileage just took it's toll because lack of lub.
Next because we talking EO4D I just had a catatrophic failure. Had EO4D trans overhauled ($2K) last year @ 97,000 miles. This week @ 110,000 miles the planetary gears failed. The explanation from the New Trans Shop is this:
Th early EO4Ds had an aluminum carrier assembly with a brass thrust plate. The plate and assembly wears down and blocks lubrication to the gears. Thus gear failure. There are no replacement parts for the original unit, so the Old Trans Shop didn't touch it. The new assembly is expensive. The updated assembly has a plate with needle bearings, this to solve the problem. So the old shop skipped the update $, so I can spend another $1000 a year later.
So WARNING if you have an early EO4D with the old design still in it, your miles are limited.
Shafted
Posting Guru
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,371
Likes: 0
From: just outside of Phila.
I can't say what to do when going from P to R. I have the same problem, and it's worse when I go from R to D or vice versa. I find that putting it into neutral before swithing from D to R or R to D let's the u-joints relax a bit, and the force isn't as bad. It still needs to be fixed, but at least it's not as brutal a shift.
Can anyone hear them spinning? Last time this happened, it was my CV Joint. I may have another bad CV, but it is at least one of the two.
Can anyone hear them spinning? Last time this happened, it was my CV Joint. I may have another bad CV, but it is at least one of the two.
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 49
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It was hard to verify. We did it by one person lieing under the truck while the other shifted gears. Even though the noise was in front all 3 joints were bad. I had let it go until developed some vibration.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: New York
Originally Posted by 65kcoupe
Ok, when shifting from park to reverse i almost always get a firm jolt. Same with reverse to drive...slightly less though. The other day my dad was driving my truck for the first time...and he has a tendency to slide the car into drive before the car stops completely. For some reason the car shifts smoother when you do this...so my question is...Is this harmful for the trans? I would assume it is..if it is why does the car shift smoother when you do it?
btw i have a 95 with a 351 and the sought after *sarcasm* E40D.
btw i have a 95 with a 351 and the sought after *sarcasm* E40D.
Another problem would be if the rpm's is too high this will give you a jolt as well. As mentioned above check your u-joints, slip-joint and also check your tranny mount.
Warr
