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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 10:47 PM
  #1  
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debestuss
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Porting heads

I know machine shops port heads but can anyone tell me how complicated it is? Is it something I could undertake in the garage? I know I can grind out (gently) the bumps in the top of the passages but what about the rest of the process.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 07:27 AM
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I'll add to your question if you dont mind. I am about to port a set of C7AE-A heads for performance, for my 390 build. Where do I grind? What do I remove, and what do I leave alone?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 08:40 AM
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I've never done it but the machine shop usually has a template to follow for grinding down the bowl edge. The idea is to make it a nice smooth curve down, without breaking into a water jacket, and keeping it consistent with each. Port matching is about the easiest to do. Remember, rough finish on intake, smooth on exhaust. Not sure if there is an egr bump.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 03:28 PM
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Rusty, I had recently inquired the same info. Do a search to come up with more info. I have the D2T's. On the exhaust side; the exhaust hump should not have any more than 1.65, measuring from the roof down, taken out. Some have posted not to mess with this at all because all the force and gases will run at the top. Your call. I can't describe exactly how much not to take off, just that I did grind to much; measured the distance at the ridge of the hole to the roof and came up with about 1.80 - .83. Then I filled it in and ground it back down to about 1.65. There is still a nociable hump in each corner. But a side by side comparrison will show a major difference.
There is also a slight ridge on the roof closer to the valve side than the exit. I was able to smooth this down easily.
For me the intake looks good as is. The chamber area should just be polished up as not to collect carbon.
Hope this helps.

Robert P.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 03:29 PM
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i used to do the head work at eagle racing engines and it wasnt how much you take out but where you take it out. if youre doing a mild cleanup just make sure you have a nice smooth transition everywhere. sometimes you can hurt more than you help. just dont go in there and start grinding away. take your time and do one runner at a time. and remember the more you take out the more bottom end youre gonna lose. i went by templates and did some pretty major port and runner reconfiguring, but they were pro mod motors which would be overkill on a street engine. if you have an old set of heads laying around practice on them. take your time and be patient (i usually had +or- 40 hours in one head.) you can do it man!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 03:44 PM
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I've heard the term "Pocket Porting." It seems to add a lot of hp in DD2k. What is it, and how do I do it?
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rusty70f100
I've heard the term "Pocket Porting." It seems to add a lot of hp in DD2k. What is it, and how do I do it?
Kurt,

Take this with a grain of salt...Cause Im going by memory, and realize Im an old Fart!!

My Dad told me this 40 years ago...of course he had a 12 ver in him... the Pocket is the place under the Valve , around the Valve guide and all the way to the first turn the port make's...To get all the Casting lines out..and smoothly blend ..where the are no sharp edges to the first transition of the port..and of coarse as said...Polish Exh...And I cant remember RMS for intake but my Dad wood polish both and then go back in and rough up the Intake for atomazation??

It maybe right or it maybe wrong..but I have done a few family members heads this way without a flow bench(wish I had) and so far so good?

Russ
 
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Old Aug 26, 2004 | 08:30 PM
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This may help you. http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm
 
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