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Aug 24, 2004 | 10:55 AM

CryHavoc

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Got a new code reader!

Well I have been looking at code readers on Ebay and at auto parts stores. The Actron one is 30 bucks in stores and about half that on Ebay but I found an awesome digital display code reader (no trying to count blinking lights) at Checker Auto (same as Kragen) for only $35.00!!

This is the one I got: http://www.iequus.com/item.asp?cid=10&pid=3145

Aug 24, 2004 | 11:42 AM

87 XLT

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From: SoCal

SOunds pretty good. Now that you have the scanner & the shop manual all you need is the EVTM & you will be all set to fix just about anything that goes wrong with your B-2.

Aug 24, 2004 | 11:50 AM

CryHavoc

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EVTM? What is that?
See that is why I like my old '53, just a timing gun and vacuum gauge and I am pretty much set!

Aug 24, 2004 | 12:00 PM

87 XLT

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From: SoCal

Electrical & vacuum troubleshooting manual, about 20 bucks at www.helminc.com It will have wiring diagrams for all the different circuits on your B-2 & tips for how to troubleshoot & repair them. Fuel pump not running or cruise control not working etc etc. The EVTM will tell you how to fix them.

Aug 24, 2004 | 12:14 PM

CryHavoc

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well I just have one prolem now. I can not find the connector to plug in the tester. Any ideas?

Aug 24, 2004 | 12:28 PM

87 XLT

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From: SoCal

Should be under the hood, passenger side somewhere between the air filter box & heater blower housing.

Aug 24, 2004 | 12:55 PM

CryHavoc

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Thanks. I found it. It was capped off and kinda dirty.
Everything checked out fine except for a code 67c (Air conditioning compressor clutch switch fault)

On the KOER test I got an all clear (code 11)

So the fast idle must just be the air control valve like you said.

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Aug 27, 2004 | 12:12 PM

jclopezv

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From: Stamford, CT

Cryhavoc, Thank you for the Tip, I just order the Code reader, It was 35.49 and 8.50 s&h. I hope it will find why the idle is irregular when the engine is cold.
JC

Aug 27, 2004 | 12:18 PM

#10

CryHavoc

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Actually I took apart the air control valve like was suggested, let it soak a few hours in parts cleaner (not the electrical part) blew it out and reassembled it, and everything is fine now!

Aug 27, 2004 | 01:05 PM

#11

87 XLT

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From: SoCal

Quote:

Originally Posted by CryHavoc

Actually I took apart the air control valve like was suggested, let it soak a few hours in parts cleaner (not the electrical part) blew it out and reassembled it, and everything is fine now!

Good deal, glad to hear that did the trick. BTW, my first car was a VERY used 53 Chevy. My dads reaction when he saw it was "Youpaid 150 bucks for THAT?" But with a fresh coat of paint rechromed bumpers & grill & a set of seat covers, I turned it into a very nice little car. What are they worth today in primo condition? Wish I still had that car. As you say working on the 53 was a whole different ball game compared to the newer ones.

Sep 4, 2004 | 07:07 AM

#12

jclopezv

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From: Stamford, CT

Guys, I got the Code Reader; It comes with a nice and very clear manual. I follow all the instructions I even read the whole thing before do any testing. note: i did it koeo I got the follow:
15 : KOEO : Read Only Memory test failed
10 : "separation code:
32 continuos memory: EGR pressure feedback fault.

Then I followed the code reader troubleshooting guide w/out any success. something funny about that was that when I routed a jumper wire from the single pin test connector to the battery negative post, i did not hear any "clicking" or any noise indicating that the auto-test was being performed. (i repeat the procedure 3 times:
-I drove the car for a couple of minutes.
-koeo-code reader testing: 15 (o),10,32 (c)
-drove the car again.
-clean all the connectors, koeo, code reader testing with the single pin jumped to the battery (-). no codes (only 000), no clicking no noises.
-drove it again.
-koeo (connecting the single test pin into the code reader) : 15,10,32. again and again and again.
Any ideas?
Thank you.

Sep 4, 2004 | 10:42 AM

#13

mrshorty

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From: UT

Not sure about those instructions. What test is supposed to be performed by connecting the STI (single wire) to ground instead of STO? I don't knwo of any test that is performed that way.
Ken00 has posted a set of instructions for the self-tests in the tech info post. Check the instructions that came with your code reader against those. There's also a good set of instructions at www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html This latter link doesn't talk about using a code reader, but the test procedures are the same, and the hook up is similar.