1997 Explorer Help!
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Los Angeles, CA
1997 Explorer Help!
I have a 97 Explorer, EB 5.0L. It has ran fine until a couple of days ago.
If the car sits for more than an hour or so it takes for ever to start. Battery is pretty new and holding charge and it isn't making a battery click on start. It almost has the sound of wanting to crank but being out of gas (this isnt the case i have like 10 gallons, lol). Sometimes it will start and idle real low and die after like 5 seconds. Then it takes a good 7-10 times of trying to get it to start before it actually does. After the engine is running it works like a dream.
Wondering if anybody had any ideas. My dad says it could be a clogged fuel filter or something preventing the engine form getting fuel after the fuel pressure has dropped.
Louie
If the car sits for more than an hour or so it takes for ever to start. Battery is pretty new and holding charge and it isn't making a battery click on start. It almost has the sound of wanting to crank but being out of gas (this isnt the case i have like 10 gallons, lol). Sometimes it will start and idle real low and die after like 5 seconds. Then it takes a good 7-10 times of trying to get it to start before it actually does. After the engine is running it works like a dream.
Wondering if anybody had any ideas. My dad says it could be a clogged fuel filter or something preventing the engine form getting fuel after the fuel pressure has dropped.
Louie
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 805
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From: Pauline, South Carolina
I would suggest pulling the codes. It could be a sensor. A trick you can try is to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery. This will probably not help, but it is possible that the PCM has some bad information stored. Anyway, I believe with the '97 you'll need an OBD II reader to pull the codes. Many auto parts stores will pull them for you with hopes that you'll buy the parts from them. You can always call and ask.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 886
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From: Cincinnati
Try turning the key just to ON for five seconds. Repeat this a couple times and then try to start. Your symptoms are like those of fuel leak down. The fuel rail should be able to hold presure for over 30 minutes. Even a minimal leak of a fuel injector, fuel pressure regulator, or check valve in the pump causes pressure to drop to zero and then the gas boils. This creates a big bubble that takes a while to flush out. Fuel rail pressure hold test is better, but this might give an indication if it is fuel or electrical.
New User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Goldsboro, NC
My hunch is that a more common problem with that age/year of vehicle and symptom is the fuel pump as previously mentioned. Sometimes the function comes and goes. Get some fuel pressure readings.
Good luck
Good luck
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Senior User
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Ok, so get this...
Yesterday I took it and got the filter changed and the injectors cleaned, just some maintenance. Problem was still there. Took it to the mechanic and it did the same thing for him. So he hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it was reading fine he said. Ever since he attached and detached the gauge, start up has been normal with no delays or anything. We cranked it like 20 times and couldnt get so much as a stutter. 2 days later and everything is still normal.
Could the gauge have released a bubble or something?
Louie
Yesterday I took it and got the filter changed and the injectors cleaned, just some maintenance. Problem was still there. Took it to the mechanic and it did the same thing for him. So he hooked up a fuel pressure gauge and it was reading fine he said. Ever since he attached and detached the gauge, start up has been normal with no delays or anything. We cranked it like 20 times and couldnt get so much as a stutter. 2 days later and everything is still normal.
Could the gauge have released a bubble or something?
Louie
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Joined: Feb 2004
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might want to check the iac valve mine acted up on my 95 and sometimes it wouldnt start unless i put the gas down a little, then had to 2 foot it just to be able to drive it, I just took it off used alcohol and a fistful of qtips and voila has been running like a top for 3 months. The iac would act up periodically but would still start but idle roughly but when it was really bad after i had a short drive then got in it wouldnt even start before i cleaned it
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From: Goldsboro, NC
Originally Posted by LACityFD
Where is the IAC valve? is that the stem that the fuel pressure gauge connects to?
Louie
Louie
Go to autozone.com and look at the description and location of the idle air control valve (a Chilton's manual would be a great assist to you also). On my 5.0, it is easily accessible right on top; not completely sure about your vehicle but usually is on top of the intake and not hidden on other fords.