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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 08:53 AM
  #1  
rotorhead's Avatar
rotorhead
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From: Jackson, MS
Engines

My 2,000 Explorer 4X4 has a 4.0 liter V6. When I first started reading about it on here and other places, I assumed I had the SOHC engine that I saw mentioned a lot. But in looking under the hood, I see "EFI" on mine. As I am still very new to the world of Explorers, SUVs in general, I need an education. What's the difference in these engines and why are there two types of 4.0 liter V-sixes in Ford's lineup? I'm just trying to become knowledgeable because I used to be an FTE addict and I'm back off the wagon now.

Rotorhead
 
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Old Aug 21, 2004 | 01:25 PM
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Opera House Works
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From: Cincinnati
The SOHC has added performance if it stays running. I'm buying a F-150 instead of an Explorer because I dont want the SOHC engine. My question is why they didn't offer the 4.2L in the Exlplorer and why it doesn't have the same timing chain problems even though it is a SOHC. I wouldn't think they would be that different.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 12:18 AM
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Jet Lizard
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SOHC means Single OverHead Cumshaft, EFI is Enhanced (?) Fuel Injection. These concepts do not exclude one with other, they mean different things. First describes timing mechanism construction and the second tells about fuel supply system.

Talking about your engine, you have 4,0 liter V6 SOHC engine with EFI.

Also I should note that some think that 4.0 SOHC engines aren't best and reliable Ford engines. Personally I think that the 4.0 OHV (OverHead Valves, used to be the only engine for 91-94 Explorers) is much more reliable.

With best regards,
Yuri
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 01:16 AM
  #4  
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Jet Lizard
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I must admit that was wrong -- in year 2000 were two 4.0L engines available for Explorers: both OHV and SOHC.

I supposed that OHV engines weren't available in 2000, so I made a conclusion that your engine is SOHC. Now I checked Ford parts electornic catalogue, it tells that OHV engines were also available.

I cannot tell how to know exactly what engine installed. Maybe you can figure out by checking 8-th VIN digit. X generally means OHV and E means SOHC. But I cannot prove this to the only correct source.

Also I describe EFI incorrectly: EFI reads as Electronic Fuel Injection, not Enhanced.

With best regards,
Yuri
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 01:28 AM
  #5  
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rotorhead
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I checked the VIN and I have an X there, so it sounds like you're right. Thanks. Now, any idea how I can tell what transmission I have? It's an auto, but that's all I know.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 01:35 AM
  #6  
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Jet Lizard
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Check your vehicle certification label on driver's door. Under TRANS mark, check the symbol.

There are possible transmission types:

M or D = 5-speed manual transmission
T = 4-speed automatic transmission (A4LD/4R44E/4R55E)
U = 4-speed automatic transmission (4R70W)
D = 5-speed automatic transmission (5R55E)

I believe that you should have "T" mark.

WBR,
Yuri
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 01:50 AM
  #7  
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rotorhead
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Okay, I just checked, and I'm VERY surprised. I have a D, which means I have the 5 speed auto, right? Is this the one everybody has so much trouble with. Thank you so much for your help. I've gotta get an owners manual!
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 01:57 AM
  #8  
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Jet Lizard
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From: Moscow, Russia
Glad to help you! If you're looking for Owner's manual, you should go to www.genuineflmservice.com at first place. Follow the link "Glove box manuals" and select your car. Then get your Owner's manual in PDF (exact copy of print version) absolutely free of charge. Usually it weights less than 5 Mb.

WBR,
Yuri
 
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Old Aug 25, 2004 | 04:06 AM
  #9  
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Opera House Works
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The 5R55E is quite reliable with the exception of valve body gasket blow outs. For some reason, you always find 3-5 bolts very loose on the valve body and low/reverse servo cover. If these are tightened to about 8 ft-lb, just a light hand twist, after a couple of years you should be fine. Around this period they also had some EPC solenoid brackets cracking that allowed it to back out. Most problems don't venture beyond the valve body though every shop will scream REBUILD. I bought my 97 at 100K with nasty smelly fluid and a lot of sediment in the pan. After a number of pan drops (the ONLY way to get sediment out) and bolt tightening, I'm still fine at over 160K. Bought a spare 99 w/52K that has the gasket problem for parts, but think I will never use it. Te A4LD had all the problems initially till they beefed it up a little.
 
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