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Tensioner & idler pulley Mfgr's Q

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Old 08-21-2004, 08:33 AM
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Tensioner & idler pulley Mfgr's Q

I have seen the tensioner from Gates, ACDelco, etc. Is there a better brand to go with please? The ACDelco is $49 and the Gates is $32. Which one do you suggest? Thanks. I'm going to replace the tensioner and idler pulley. I assume that the sepentine should be changed at that time also? Thanks again.
 

Last edited by Golfmore; 08-21-2004 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 08-21-2004, 02:43 PM
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I'd get the tensioner at Napa. On my wifes 95 Taurus the steering was momentarily binding up and not wanting to turn at 70 MPH. The serpentine belt had 60K miles on it & changing it fixed that problem, so now I change it every 50K.
 
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Old 08-23-2004, 03:45 PM
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I believe the ACDelco will be a better part, but I changed mine out with a Gates because that is what the auto parts store had. It has lasted longer than the Ford OEM part.
 
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Old 08-23-2004, 03:53 PM
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Thanks for the help. I'll do the ACDelco. Thanks again.
 
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Old 08-23-2004, 09:56 PM
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Anyone know how to take either the Tension or the Idler pullies off for a 2002 Mountaineer? I mean what tool do I need, tips would be good too?
 
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Old 08-25-2004, 06:35 PM
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glipscomb:

It might be a little different depending on the engine you have, but for the V6 SOHC, it is very easy:

Remove the drivebelt using a 3/8" drive socket wrench without a socket and put it into the square hole near the pulley wheel and rotate counter clockwise. This will take off the tension and allow you to pop the belt off the pulley. You might need a short cheater bar on the socket wrench to easily move the spring. With the belt off, unbolt the single bolt on the tensioner arm and the idler pulley. Replace the arm/pulley (making sure the tensioner is set properly in place so the base will not rotate) and torque the bolts to 30 to 40 ft.lbs. (this torque is for both the tensioner arm and idler pulley). Use the socket wrench again to tension the spring and slip the drive belt back on. If you replace the pullies, it would be wise to replace the belt, too. Make sure you have the belt in all the right grooves of each and every pulley the drive belt rides on. The belt will wear, break, or come off if not in the right place.

These directions are for the V6 SHOC in a '99. There might be a some changes for the '02, but I doubt it.
 
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Old 08-25-2004, 10:05 PM
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Thanks for the tips.
 
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Old 10-09-2008, 04:54 PM
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my tensioner wheel popped off how do i fix it? 1996 ford f 150 5.0
 
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Old 10-09-2008, 05:04 PM
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Question tension idler pulley

i have a 1996 ford f150,5.0,v 8. the wheel came off the tensioner, what do i do to fix this?
 
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Old 10-09-2008, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by chump change
i have a 1996 ford f150,5.0,v 8. the wheel came off the tensioner, what do i do to fix this?
I've never changed a tensioner on that year 5.0l however many late model Fords use tensioners similar or identical in various engines and years. Sounds to me like the bolt backed out and the tensioner pulley fell off or the bearing seized up or something. The Tensioner pulley/bearing bolts onto the tensioner arm. The last tensioner/bearing I got at Napa.

Since you have the belt off anyway its a good idea to replace the belt and check the bearing on the idler pulley. The bearing (at least on the ones I've replaced) can be pressed out and a new bearing pressed in so you don't have to buy the pulley also. Hope the info helps.
 
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Old 10-09-2008, 05:33 PM
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Chump Change -

The folks in the 150 Forum may be able to give you exact info for this fix.

Welcome to FTE!!!

Steve
 
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Old 09-07-2013, 05:10 PM
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Hi all, newbie here. I have had a deafening squeal from passenger's side of engine, thought it might be the alternator. After removing serpentine belt I noticed the tensioner pulley was seized. I managed to get it off and found metal shavings under the pulley and loose ball bearings. Do you think the entire alternator bracket needs to be replaced or just a new pulley? It is difficult to view the mounting point for the pulley to see if it is damaged.
 
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Old 09-09-2013, 01:51 PM
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I keep meaning to look under my hood, todathome, to see what you are talking about regarding the need to replace the alternator bracket. Unfortunately, I keep forgetting. But if my memory serves me, there is no need to replace the bracket. The Idler Tensioner and idler wheel (with the bearing) are all that is needed to fix the problem. The two come together as one part.

But something else to note is that you may have another idler wheel and bearing in your serpentine belt path as well. Don't forget to check it, too. I've had to replace both.

By the way, this is all relative to the V-6 OHC. I can't speak to the V8 motor.

Dan
 
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