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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

PLEASE DEFINE"REFLASH" & EXPLAIN CAVITATION

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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 05:47 PM
  #1  
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PLEASE DEFINE"REFLASH" & EXPLAIN CAVITATION

I'm considering a new F 250 with the 6.0 diesel and have read about something called "reflash" happening and resulting in poor fuel economy. I have also read about cavitation occurring in a diesel engines cooling system and preventing same by using a system additive. I'd like to know more about these topics before I make my purchase. Thanks, Jim
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 07:44 PM
  #2  
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Hayapower!
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Originally Posted by jimmyboy
I'm considering a new F 250 with the 6.0 diesel and have read about something called "reflash" happening and resulting in poor fuel economy. I have also read about cavitation occurring in a diesel engines cooling system and preventing same by using a system additive. I'd like to know more about these topics before I make my purchase. Thanks, Jim

Jim..

Flashes have been done not only to diesels, but gassers as well for years. Cars and trucks.. There not just 6.0 related 'or' intended, and are 'in design' to make for a better running/driving vehicle. A re-flash is a re-programming 'OR' enhancement if you like, to the PCM ect., to correct running/driveability issues.. Some owners have had some MPG problems that may or maynot be related to the flashes, but if that's the only thing thats been done, with no other driving/load changes ect. and mileage drops off then its hard to dispute.. My 03 F250 S/C 4x4 (latest flash) is getting 14-17, and I've installed a Predator tuner for the added mileage, but it's hard to behave, and most of my driving is in the commute lanes.. I haven't had a chance for a new highway MPG test yet, but should pull about 18 or 19.. Not bad for a truck of it's weight.. Could it have been better without the flashes its had,, Maybe,, but mine runs awesome even with the latest flashes.. And, I don't have any driveability issues either, and is probably the result of the 'new' programming..

As to the cavitation question... In the case of many diesels, what happens is.. when the fuel detonates in the combustion chamber it causes the cylinder wall to flex outward a tad, due to the pressure in the cylinder. When the cylinder returns to its original shape, the water can't follow/return fast enough. The result is, very 'tiny' bubbles of vacuum form on the wall of the cylinder. When the cylinder stops moving, the vacuum bubbles collapse violently. At each place where there 'was' a bubble, the water comes back with an extremely sharp blow. Hard to believe.. But, often, the blow is 'so hard' that it takes off a tiny bit of iron from the cylinder wall. Over an extended period of time, the 'outside' of the cylinder wall will look like its been sandblasted/pitted.. It's really important to have the scheduled/coolant changes (not only diesel) and additives can be added to control the condition/issue..

I personaly would worry to much about either.. If cared for, and if you buy a 'late' build truck chances are you won't have any problems..THESE ARE BRUTALLY AWESOME trucks!!!

Read all you can at FTE (lotta sharp pencils here) and around the net, lots of info. avialable.
...............................HP................. .....
 

Last edited by Hayapower!; Aug 18, 2004 at 08:25 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 08:02 PM
  #3  
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bighoss550
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HP, that was beautiful, man

thats the best explaination ever...
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 08:21 PM
  #4  
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Hayapower!
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From: CA
Plus, cavitation is 'way more' of an issue with diesels with cylinder liners (wet type).. Not only does it eat away at the 'thin' liner, but can cause/aid in the liner to come loose, moving 'slightly' worsening the problem with vibration ect. as it destroys the liner 'and' the cast.. The 6.0 doesn't have any liners to worry about, and cavitation isn't as big of an issue.. Electrolysis has been eating at engines/cooling systems for years, and like with diesels needs to be addressed.. Most people in the past (our guys!) used to just change the coolant when it 'turned', or, on a pump/hose replacement ect., but can be expensive in the 'long run' if not serviced, and/or just H2o 'added' and thinning the mix!!

Why is there never enough time to do it right, but, always enough time to do it over...
..........................HP...................... ..
 

Last edited by Hayapower!; Aug 18, 2004 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 09:48 PM
  #5  
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Give that man a round of applause….very cool
 
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Old Aug 18, 2004 | 09:50 PM
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With the gold coolant don't worry about cavitation. The gold coolant already has "additive" in it so there is no need to add any additives like you did in the older PSDs with the green coolant.
 
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