V10 miss
V10 miss
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 417
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From: Southdakota
Mine did the same thing a while back and the guys here and a friend that works in a ford garage sugested I check the coils and the rubber boots that go around the plugs. I did this and really could not find any thing wrong but by taking them off and re installing them the pboblem went away at least for the last 6or8 months anyway 
Everyone here also sugested that I use dielectric greese on the boots when reinstalling and I found ford comfermed that but I had already put it back together and have not had a problem. Best I can figure is one of the boots were not on tight and was getting moisture in it from washing and weather.
Hope this helps
JT
Everyone here also sugested that I use dielectric greese on the boots when reinstalling and I found ford comfermed that but I had already put it back together and have not had a problem. Best I can figure is one of the boots were not on tight and was getting moisture in it from washing and weather.Hope this helps
JT
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v10 miss
Originally Posted by superdutymj
have you tested the coils? how many miles does your truck have? do you have access to a dtc reader?
My truck has about 50000 miles, how do you check the coils?
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v 10 miss
Originally Posted by Big Orn
Need all info you can give on truck and engine, please. 
I have 50000 miles on my 99 250. I changed boots and plugs about 2000 miles ago, but the problem returned recently .No check engine light or anything. I don't have a code reader anyway. How would one check the coils, thanks for any help you can give.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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I have a 99 V10 in my class A motor home. I had a misfire under load problem that I could not solve. No codes, etc. I finally decided to change the plugs even though they had only 17,000 miles on them. In the process of changing the plugs I found three coil quick disconnects with corroded contacts. I cleaned the quick disconnects with electrical contact cleaner and it now runs perfectly.
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Joined: Jun 2004
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I currently have a miss in my '01 F250. I removed the coils and plugs thinking I could tell which cylinder was the culprit, but they all looked normal. The coil disconnect terminals all looked good as well. Since I don't have a code reader, I tried to find the "bad" coil using a simple ohmmeter. They measured between .3 and .7 ohms. Definitely not open, so I have to assume they're all good. ...unless someone out there tells me different.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by iez44
...so I have to assume they're all good. ...unless someone out there tells me different.
Sadly, there is no easy way to check them except to hook-up to the PCM and do a driveability test.
A seemingly good coil can go south for no apparent reason...some with 100K miles on them, some with 10K miles.
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Big Orn,
I sure hate to pay the dealer prices for a driveability test!! Do you, or anyone else, know who manufacturer's the coils? More importantly, do you know where I can get the specs for them? Being an electrical engineer with access to a lot of test equipment, I should be able to locate the bad one if I have the technical specs for it.
Thanks,
iez44
I sure hate to pay the dealer prices for a driveability test!! Do you, or anyone else, know who manufacturer's the coils? More importantly, do you know where I can get the specs for them? Being an electrical engineer with access to a lot of test equipment, I should be able to locate the bad one if I have the technical specs for it.
Thanks,
iez44
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by iez44
Big Orn,
I sure hate to pay the dealer prices for a driveability test!!
I sure hate to pay the dealer prices for a driveability test!!
Do you, or anyone else, know who manufacturer's the coils? More importantly, do you know where I can get the specs for them? Being an electrical engineer with access to a lot of test equipment, I should be able to locate the bad one if I have the technical specs for it.
Thanks,
iez44
Thanks,
iez44
There is a test procedure and it will reveal the problem, but the trick is know which one it is...unless you test them all.
Have you did a search here?
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Joined: Jun 2004
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Originally Posted by Big Orn
It's about $36 to $40 here. What do they have to do where you come from, just to hook it up and go down the road?
No, I don't. Sorry.
There is a test procedure and it will reveal the problem, but the trick is know which one it is...unless you test them all.
Have you did a search here?
No, I don't. Sorry.
There is a test procedure and it will reveal the problem, but the trick is know which one it is...unless you test them all.
Have you did a search here?
I did do a search, but couldn't come up with anything. Maybe someone else out there knows where I can get the technical specs for the V10 coil packs.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,643
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From: NE Texas
Originally Posted by iez44
I've been quoted anywhere from $65 to $80. (I think they're trying to make up for lost income, since I'll be replacing the parts!)
I did do a search, but couldn't come up with anything. Maybe someone else out there knows where I can get the technical specs for the V10 coil packs.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 423
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
It took 3 different test drives (all under warranty) for the Ford boys to find an intermittent coil pack on my truck. Unfortunately, the problem was not always repeatable and the computer didn't pick up the problem until it began missing while driving.
Once they found the problem and replaced the bad coil, it runs like a top again.
Edmo
Once they found the problem and replaced the bad coil, it runs like a top again.
Edmo
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Ok, I'm new to this, but let me give you what I've figured out. I bought a '99 F250 V10 with 102k on it. It had a pretty serious miss. Turns out the bracket where the bolt goes through to hold down the coil was destroyed, so the coil was just flapping around. Had that coil replaced, truck ran great. Then it started having problems again. After many (re: 6?) hours at the dealer's expense (they stripped one of the coil bolts after replacing the plugs) the figured out the number eight coil was bad. So I've now had two coils replaced. The truck runs like a champ for the first time since I bought it (about 2500 miles ago).
On to finding coils. Maybe I'm a good sluth, but I think I found a site that sells various types for my truck for a good price.
http://www.teamautoparts.com
They have four different brands for different prices. The Motorcraft were on discontinued and were being sold for $23 or so, I missed that deal. Anyhow, the KEM are about $50, Standard Motor Products are about $50, AC Delco are about $70, and Motorcraft are about $60.
I'm still waiting to hear back from a friend at a Ford Dealership on the exact part numbers to be completely sure, but I'll probably buy the coils from Team Auto Parts.
Good Luck,
Brian
On to finding coils. Maybe I'm a good sluth, but I think I found a site that sells various types for my truck for a good price.
http://www.teamautoparts.com
They have four different brands for different prices. The Motorcraft were on discontinued and were being sold for $23 or so, I missed that deal. Anyhow, the KEM are about $50, Standard Motor Products are about $50, AC Delco are about $70, and Motorcraft are about $60.
I'm still waiting to hear back from a friend at a Ford Dealership on the exact part numbers to be completely sure, but I'll probably buy the coils from Team Auto Parts.
Good Luck,
Brian