Hi people. Just put in a new Fram Air Hog in my '95 Mazda B3000/ Ford Ranger 2WD 5sp. I've got a code 1151. The dealer says I can't run an Air Hog or any oiled filter because the oil gets on the MAF and then dirt sticks to that, and basically ruins the sensor. Then the mechanic from Mazda sent me to the parts desk to price the sensor saying basically that I had ruined it? The parts guy says he's never sold one but they're $454 plus tax. Great!
So I install a frekin' air filter and it ruins a 500 dollar part?
Somethings got to give.
Has anyone seen this problem? I don't want to drive around with my check engine light on, I want to know the truth about this. I'm getting ready to e-mail Fram and give them the what's up too.
Thanks,
Zeppelin

 

just wipe the dirt off of the MAF and unhook the negative battery cable for 5 minutes to clear the code.just be careful not to tweek the MAF,and it will probably be all right.

 

P.S. Check the "sticky" at the top of the page for how to clean the MAF. I'm just wondering,.. whats up with the air hog? does it use a spray oil like a K&N?

 

when you clean the maf sensor Dont touch the 2 filiments. just spray them off with carb cleaner and let it dry completely before reinstalling it. if you damage the filliments then you will be sorry.

 

Thanks a ton VIN 95! The Fram Air Hog is very similar to a K&N, with one difference: it was 7 bucks cheaper. Since the filters for my truck run about $10.99 for a paper filter, 40 bucks for the "Hog" seemed like a bargain. It never needs to replaced! Then the "check engine" light came on...

I am going to clean the MAF tomorrow, and I hope for Fram's sake it takes care of the problem.

 

A properly oiled filter should be no problem. If the problem with the MAF comes back, I would clean and reoil the filter. Good luck.

Dono

 

Yeah, Methinks maybe used too much oil,kemosabe.

 

or you will be very sorry. I ruined mine like that. use printed circuit board cleaner on the sensor filament

 

Potential MAF issues are one of the reasons I'm not a real big fan of oiled air filters. But I realize it's a preference thing, and to each his own.

You should also keep in mind that the Code 1151 - System Lean - Bank 2 could mean what it says...that too much air is getting into the system. This could occur if the air intake system or filter aren't sealed properly, or maybe even a vacuum hose somewhere else was knocked off accidently while installing it, etc. Look for air leaks anywhere and everywhere.

P.S. Welcome to FTE!

 

You guys are awesome! I wasn't planning to use carb cleaner anyway. I was thinking about this here can of Techspray Blue Shower II. It is a universal cleaner/degreaser, sold at electronics supply houses. I use it for cleaning circuit boards, contacts, etc.
Here's what it says: Non-Flammable;rapidly evaporating;safe on most plastics;zero residue;non-corrosive; and last but not least, low ozone depletion potential. I think it's perfect for the job.

If anyone thinks differently, you better let me know quick, as soon as I get back from Wally-world, I'm going in! I read earlier to let the engine cool for a few hours, so I'm driving something else to the Wal-Mart, while I patiently wait for the truck to cool.
Hey, you guys ROCK!

 

I'm starting to wonder about this oiled filter thing myself, Rockledge.

If it has too much oil on it, it's Fram's fault at least this time, because it's new. The check engine light came on after about 500 miles with the new filter in. I reset the code, then it came back on after about 300 more.

 

I guess it wouldn't be right if I didn't tell you guys everything that has been going on with my '95 B3000 lately. I had the clutch replaced at right at 70k miles, then again the other day at 130k. So I guess all I'm gonna get is 60k out of a clutch,oh well. Next time I'm going to do it myself too, because the guys that did it returned it to me with a stinkin' exhaust leak! Needless to say, it was sitting in their parking lot when they got to work the next day..I guess I just chickened out of tackling that one. A word of advice: if you want something done right, do it YOURSELF!
I replaced the thermostat a week ago with a 180 degree. The book calls for a 195, but when I pulled it out(the original) it read 197. It seemed like the old girl was really running hot more and more often, and I've also had pinging problems. Yes, I always have a load on it, with the utililty box on the back, (4) 10 inch subs and their enclosures in the cab, several tool boxes,etc,etc. If I run Premium gas, I don't have any problems with pinging but I thought the thermostat might also help. It never occured to me before finding this forum that the MAF and other sensors might be contributing to the pinging problem. As far as I'm concerned running premium is fine, I just want to know why the heck it pings anyway? I'm learning.
The battery was replaced last week also, it was 5 years old anyway. That's when I discovered the bolted AND welded battery tray. How sturdy! And stupid!
The plugs and wires have been replaced and they are exact Mazda replacement parts because somebody told me THAT was the cause of the pinging. It wasn't. The fuel filter under the frame rail was replaced faily recently. All for now.
Thank you all! You guys are AWESOME!

 

IMO, the way the 3.0L is designed, it's ignition and timing, etc. have a lot to do with why it can be prone to pinging. That is why I always advocate a multi-pronged approach to the problem, including a well-tuned igniton, a sound fuel system and an efficient cooling system. It sounds like you have addressed those things.

Not to beat a dead horse, but if you are still getting some pinging, the last thing you want is a lean running engine. Those things pretty much go hand in hand.

And there are some other potential causes of pinging on the 3.0L "vulcan" engine, as well. I have put together some things you might be interested in looking at regarding 3.0L pinging in this thread (look under Section V, Pinging, Spark Knock & Detonation): 3.0L Technical Information & Tips

 

Okay, so who is right about which cleaner to use to clean your MAF. A lot of people advocate using carb cleaner and someone else claims he ruined his MAF by doing so. He says to use a circuit board cleaner or electronic parts cleaner. The sticky only says to use an O2 safe cleaner. I presume that's for the oxygen sensor.

 

i used Gumout carb cleaner to clean my maf and the can said, "safe for O2 sensors and catalytic converters." I had no problems what so ever.