I went to Sears Hardware this afternoon and they are clearing out the Porter-Cable Model 347 (7 1/4", 15 amp, right-side blade). Was $120 and they dropped it to $84. I went the P-C website and they dropped it from their line. Guess the model has been discontinued.

And yes, I did buy one.

 

You can't go wrong with PC power tools. They have a better balance and feel than Dewalt, and are much more comfortable to use than Makita. Sounds like you made a good buy.

MR

 

I find the Makita 7 1/4 saw a nice saw,,Have tried other's with the Makita you can see the blade between handle and blade guard, and not get sawdust in yours eyes,,,other's you cant even see the blade from there, and they stand up for years, cant say that for other makes !

 

I second m350 on the Makita, I have used mine for 15-18 years and it has never let me down, built a house and a cabin using it and countless other home projects over the years. Its a good basic saw, nothing fancy but well built.

 

I'm a Porter-Cable man!!! My first PC tool was a 12v cordless drill - I asked the tool-man at Lowes (not an expert I know) which tools hold up the best and he said, "ALL Porter Cable tools are PROFESSIONAL grade...you can't get much better than Porter Cable...they don't build a "Harry Homeowner" line of tools".

So far, I've added to my PC collection with a 14.4v cordless drill, a belt sander, a r/o sander, a dual-base router, a framing nailer, and a finish nailer. I think that's all. I haven't been unhappy with any of them.

I like Dewalt too...even if it is a contractor grade Black&Decker... I've got a Dewalt 7 1/4" circular saw - never any problems or disappointments.

Regards,
Scott

 

I gotta put in my vote for the Skilsaw Wormdrive Model 77. Been using them for years. I do admit though that that is a good price for a PC saw.

 

I sell tools for a living, and your in luck, while they did discontinue the 347, they only discontinued the model number. It should now be a 9347, or 7347 now or something like that, porter cable is doing that to alot of their tools right now, don't know why. But they have made that saw for years and I don't think you will ever have trouble finding parts for them. Just don't ever run it on anything less than a 12/3 cord and you shouldn't have any problem! Good luck!

 

I saw quite a few wormdrive models there too. I've never fully understood the advantage of a wormdrive over the direct drive style.

Easier handling / cutting? Can anyone clue me in?

 

Good to know!


Yes, learned that long ago!

 

Which model do you have? I like to read Auto Detailing boards too and it seems a lot guys recommend the Porter Cable #7424 R/O polisher. That's the next item on my list.

 

If you're doing things like cabinet remodels or other light plywood and 2x projects, a regular saw works great. (I've used both the PC and the makita and I like them both.)

The worm drive just can't be beat, IMO, for most major house projects. It's a little heavy to pick up, but once you get it on the work it very controllable. I've used mine for ripping plywood and timbers, cutting through roofing, bricks - all sorts of stuff a standard would have a problem with, and thats without having it drift. Mine has enough control that even when one side of the blade gets dull from nicking a nail or something, I can still power it through straight with little effort. They have a clutch you set, so it's rare to get kickback. If I power into something and the blade binds, the clutch will spin and I can back off and try again. I don't have to worry about the saw jumping and marring the cut or spraining my wrist.

When mine wears out I plan on getting one of the lighter ones, but I doubt I'll live that long.

 

Thanks for the info, Howdy. That answers it.

 

I'll have to check when I get back home...(tomorrow evening). Don't know right off the top of my head.

Regards,
Scott

 

As a contractor for 20 some years I have had this discussion many times. most times it does come down to personnel choice and what type of work is being done.
Worm drives are great saws and are better suited for heavy framing and more "straight line" cutting. The blade turns slower but has much more torque lessening the kickback effect as well as they dont throw as much saw dust in your face. The newer skil I have 71/2" also has a clutch feature adding to safety. We use these more for bench or ground work. They are heavy in weight making cuts above the waistline difficult and somewhat a little more dangerous.
The older skil is an 81/2" model that we only use to cut 4" or 6" material, it's close to 20 yrs old and still cuts like new. Another benefit is they handle cutting stone and metal which I would not recommend with direct drive saws.

Now for direct drive saws. They are better suited for all around purpose.
you can cut heavy timber but they do a much cleaner job cutting lighter materials. Much lighter they can used all day wthout arm/wrist fatigue and when making multipul small cuts are much faster. If you need to work with the saw above your head they can be handled much easier. I DO NOT recommend this move but if you have to direct drive is better suited. I have 4 PC saws, one that's left handed for certain situations and really like them.The newer model has improved the sawdust collection/deflection. The 3 Makitas I have still go to work everyday and my one forman will only use that saw, he swears by it. I bought the dewalt and nobody likes it. Guide is difficult to use and no matter what the position your in, sawdust hits you in the face. Same can be said for milwaukee as that is just a dust collector. I also do not recommend using abrasive wheels in direct drive as they destoy the bearings and warp the armatures. If you have to OK but don't make it a habit.
As with all saws good sharp blades are a must. Dull blades are dangerous, cause kickback and burn your saw out. Also use the right amount of teeth for the job required. The hotter the saws gets the less time you will own it. It is also very important to use quality extension cords. I only buy 12 gauge. If you want the saw to last some maintenance helps, a clean, lubricated tool will perform better as well as safer.

I hope this helps all concerned..... James

 

Certainly does, James. More good info. Thanks.