I swapped out my right rear power window motor today in an attempt to get better performance when the window switch is in the down position.

However, there was very little improvement.

I greased up the tracks and lift areas where contact may cause friction issues, but that's still not the cause.

The window goes up fine and without hesitation; most likely due to the high tension spring loaded regulator.

When the window descends, it '*****' up and back as though not seated properly in the tracking mechanism. The other windows all descend level and smooth all the way down until the maximum distance has been obtained.

It also 'bows' out the entire surface area where the regulator mounting plate is riveted to the door when the switch is in the down position. I can also see the two rear pop rivets slightly rocking in place when the motor is active; although the amount of free travel of the internal regulator assembly really doesn't move more than 1/8".

The regulator doesn't seem to be defective (due to typical wear and tear), so I'm really not sure what's up with this obvious mechanical binding issue.

Note that I only drilled 5/8" holes at the three 'dimple' points on the inner door to gain access to the 5/16" mounting bolts that hold the motor in place. This was a much more logical resolution for removing the motor than what the FORD service manuals recommend (drilling out the four pop rivets and anchoring the arms on the regulator)

The regulator was never removed or adjusted.

I'm a pretty sharp guy, but I don't have a fix for this one.

Any Ideas????

Note that if I assist the window with my hand, it will go down with the switch in the down position.

. . Falcon Eddy

 

Never use grease in a window run, it will just get gummy and work to louse things up. Only use dry silicone spray on the felts and do so regularly. It could be your window run is worn or something is trapped in the felt. Sometimes windows get broken out and the person replacing it wont clean out all the glass shards properly and they get imbedded in the felt. Those loose rivets can make it bind as well. The window run can be adjusted a small amount at the bottom where it bolts to the inner door skin. Flexing of the inner door panel is fairly normal, and unless it is cracked I wouldnt worry about that. Your regulator may be bent too.
Sometimes on regulators that have the brackets glued to the glass come loose from the glass and become cocked in the run when going down. On windows that are riveted to the regulator sometimes the rivets pop out of the plastic retainers, often due to someone using the wrong rivet size. And the nuts to the bracket that attaches the glass on some regulators can come loose. Sometimes the glass will stick and jump the run groove and the glass is actually riding the outer belt of the run, rather than the groove. Inspect the way the glass runs through the run through its entire limit of operation and see if it stays within the groove of the felting. The felting may be twisted part way down and throwing the glass out of track.

 

Nope, I didn't grease the vertical runs themselves, just the guides in the horizontal track slides as recommended by FORD.

The glass has never been broken or adjusted, and all bottom window mount connections are tight and completely stationary. (It's the 'channel and bolt' type)

The regulator lift assembly doesn't appear to be bent, but without removing it and throwing a protractor on it (which I'm not about to attempt), that's purely speculation.

However, the problem could be in the forward run itself since I recall noticing that the window appeared to not be in the run.

Since I'm not 100% familiar with a properly seated window in the run, I would most likely need to inspect the other rear doors forward window run to see if it varied from the other side, correct?

The rear run is easy to view (with the moisture liner removed) and the glass stays in the track through the entire range of motion.

Can both the rear AND forward runs be adjusted?? The forward run may be the culprit.

Or, do you somehow move (or loosen) the rear run, pop the window back into the forward run, then place tension back on the window with the rear run and snug it up?

Thanks!

. . Falcon Eddy

 

OK, I just realized you said REAR window, and there isnt much for adjusting the rears. It is most likely a felting defect in the run or a bent regulator. The solid frame for the rears due to the smaller opera glass framework usually leaves for a pretty solid environment. So unless your door is tweaked I would have to say the regulator or felting is the culprit.

 

Thanks.

I'll try to update you on the diagnosis/resolution by the first part of next week.



. . Falcon Eddy