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Back in Dec 03, I was a total jerk and allowed a $15 part to cause the head gaskets on my 96 Taurus to break. Anyway, I pulled the heads and replaced the gaskets and had the heads milled since they were warped. I did not pull the block because it is generally accepted that the blocks are strong and do not require any work. Well, I replaced the ignition rotor as well as the 2 oxygen sensors located nearest the exhaust ports, and replaced the EGR valve sensor. The engine works well enough; however, it will start to misfire whenever it feels like it. As soon as it does this, the service engine light comes on. It will run like this for about ten minutes, then it will calm down and run fine, except that the srvice engine light will still be on. Eventually the light will go out if I only drive moderately fast and don't rev the engine too strenuously. As happens so many times before, the service light will start to flash and the engine will start to misfire.
I'm not sure what you mean when you say you replaced the ignition rotor. Do you mean the coilpack (looks like a rectangular distributor cap), or do you mean the the camshaft synchronizer (looks like a distributor shaft and is located where the distributor used to be). Your '96 has the EDIS igntion system, and not a conventional distributor/rotor system.
IMO, the best way to diagnose the problem is, next time the problem arises and the check engine light comes on, go get the codes pulled. A CEL means a trouble code is stored in memory. Places like AutoZone will pull the codes
for free. Get the code and post it here.
My apologies; I was writing sort of "on the spur of the moment", and I couldn't remember the name of the doohickie, which as you correctly state, is called the cam synchronizer rotor.
Anyway, a friend of mine at a Ford dealer hooked up their laptop diagnostic system, and it turned out that it had a problem between cylinders number 5 and 6, which is precisely where the head gasket blew previously. I can't remember what the exact diagnosis was, but I do remember he had a graphic depiction of either the combustion chamber efficiency, or comperssion, etc, and it was showing a drop off in those two cylinders.
I will definitely go to auto zone and see what they can find.
there is a TSB for that model year Taurus about a coolant bypass kit that needs to be installed on the block to prevent overheating. If you go to www.Taurusclub.com and click on the forums you should be able to find it. A friend of mine didn't have the kit installed and he had a head gasket failure becaue of it.
No need to go anywhere. The Taurus "Brown Coolant" subject has been discussed here in the FTE 3.0L Forum several times. Here is a very good thread on the subject which contains a link to the full TSB.
No need to go anywhere. The Taurus "Brown Coolant" subject has been discussed here in the FTE 3.0L Forum several times. Here is a very good thread on the subject which contains a link to the full TSB.
Nothing to apologize for. You were pointing out sources of information trying to help someone out, and that is a good thing. I just wanted to make sure that people know that the Taurus/Sable "Brown Coolant" issue had been covered here before, even though it's not something that a 3.0L Ranger vulcan engine is prone to.