Hi all!

I just registered and am new to this forums site as well as to Ford trucks! I recently purchased a 1992 Ford Ranger Supercab with the 2.9 engine. It seems to be in pretty good shape. I've done a few things to it to give it a little tune up; I put in new spark plugs, new wires, new distributor cap, and rotor. I also gave it an oil change, new air filter, gas filter, and had the manual transmission serviced.

I was hoping to get rid of a rough idle and get it running a little bit better. The truck had been sitting around a lot before I purchased it. Needless to say, the rough idle is still there. My uncle helped me to check the timing on this truck and it is definitely off so I am hoping that that is a part of the problem. I bought a Chilton's book but this book gave conflicting tips on changing the Timing. First off, the book stated to unplug the Ignition Control Module but we couldn't find it. The book listed a couple of different locations but we couldn't find it. Second of all, we had trouble locating the correct bolts to be loosened on the distributor. We ended up not doing changing the timing. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated!

Also, any more ideas or tips on the rough idling? I have just one more question. This engine seems to be pretty wimpy. While on a freeway, if I start going up a hill, I quickly lose rpm's in fifth gear. I can push the gas pedal all the way down and really don't gain anything. Is this normal? If not, any suggestions on gaining some more horse power?

Thanks!

 

If you "checked" the timing without unplugging the SPOUT connector, then you haven't really checked the timing. As long as the SPOUT is plugged in, the computer can and will advance the timing above base timing. On my '87 2.9, the SPOUT connector is a little pill shaped shorting bar plugged into a wire (yellow with green tracer on mine, I think) that kind of hangs over the passenger valve cover.
Other things I would do:
1) It's fairly common for the IAC valve to get dirty. Pull it off and clean it out.
2) Check the fuel pressure to make sure fuel delivery is up to snuff.
3) Run the EEC-IV self-tests (aka pull codes) to see if the computer can see a fault.

 

Thanks mrshorty!

The Chilton's book said something about the SPOUT, but it didn't show what it looked like or give a picture of where it was located or even what it is. I'll try to find this thing and check the timing then. Do I still have to unplug the Ignition Control Module as well? If so, any idea of where this is located?

Also, I should state that I don't have a lot of experience with trucks and engines. I've installed a clutch, a fly wheel, a starter, and can do tune ups on some cars, but that's about the extent of my knowledge so far. I can follow directions pretty well and can learn fast, but there is a lot I don't know. For example, I am not sure what the IAC valve is and where it can be located. This would be in the Chilton's book wouldn't it? Also, how do I pull codes?

Thanks again!

 

Unplugging the entire ignition control module (ICM) would kill all spark to the engine. You only need to unplug the SPOUT connector. I'm not sure on your '92, but on my '87, the SPOUT connector comes out of the wiring harness that runs next to the passenger side valve cover. For future reference, the ICM (aka TFI) module is attached to the distributor.
Chilton's should show the IAC valve, it's attached to the side of the upper intake. Looks kind of like a film cannister.
Chilton's should also describe the self-tests, thought my copy of Chiltons neglected to put in a diagram of the self-test connector. Several places online that describe how to pull the codes. My favorite is www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html Please note, if you decide to post your codes here for help, that there are three types of codes that are output (KOEO, KOER, and continuous memory). I find that listing a code without listing which part of the test it's from is almost incomplete. I also find it easier to help if the person notes which tests passed (11).

 

Thanks again! You've definitely been helpful. It looks like, according to the link you gave me, that I need to buy a gadget in order to pull codes, correct?

I think I'll start with cleaning the IAC valve and the throttle body, because I know that those things haven't been done on this vehicle in I don't know how long. I'll let you know how that goes. Now that I know about the SPOUT, I'll check out the timing as well.

Thanks again!

SOTK

 

Only gadget(s) necessary for pulling codes is a voltmeter and a short piece of wire (paper clip works). If you look immediately under "tests", it shows how to hook up the voltmeter and a jumper wire to pull the codes. I forgot that you have a '92. Since a '92 should have a functional check engine light, all you really need is the paper clip to jumper the STI to STO lead, and the codes will be output as flashes of the CEL (see "getting codes" at www.fordfuelinjection.com). In spite of this, some like to buy the little code reader (~$40) because it's easier for some people to have a gadget for pulling the codes. Either way, you get the same result.
And, in case you missed it, the dalidesign page also details the timing tests (both base timing and timing advance tests).