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fuel + spark =... nothing?

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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 08:48 PM
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fuel + spark =... nothing?

ok reset timing to 10* on No.1 plug with a light so i know it was getting spark
but it wont start it doenst even try hard a little backfiring never catches though

so i checked fuel pressure 32psi at rail there was a little smoke coming from somewhere under the hood while trying to start it but i did not find any antifreeze in oil or anything i dont know where its comin from but there was hardly enough to see

could it be something simple? i keep checking to see if maybe i left something unpluged but i cant find anything

any help would be appreciated
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 09:10 PM
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are you sure your fuel injectors are fireing, roll your engine over several times and then check to see if a spark plug is wet with gasoline
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 09:21 PM
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they are
i also checked and the compression stroke of No. is atleast close to the h bal markings
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 09:23 PM
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i meant No 1 cylinder compresses as it gets closer to tdc
 
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Old Aug 11, 2004 | 11:24 PM
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You're sure its firing? Did you check at the coil or the plugs? The coil may be firing but it may not be passing to the plugs.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 07:45 AM
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what i checked was with the timing light
im under the impression that the light comes on when current goes through the wire and if current goes thru the wire then there had to be spark or the plug would hafta be fouled the plugs are 3 weeks old and it was runnin fine before i started to mess with the timing
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 09:43 AM
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could it be the eec relay?
fuel pressure is in the 30-40psi range and ticks (meaning the injectors are working?)
i checked firing order incase i mixed it up when reinstalling everything is in order
is the timing light not suffecient way to check spark? could i have gotten a bad icm? from reading other threads maybe it could be the eec relay??
what would it mean if i had weak spark?

i have let it sit all nite and all morning and im gonna use some intake cleaner and see if it will crank this afternoon
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 10:42 AM
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sorry im not givin yall time to repond but i just thought of somehting
i carefully manually set the rotor to contact no. 1 plug at 10btc but when i tried to crank it the light showed No. 1 firing late (about 5-10atc) so i turned the dist. and got it right on but no starting
thought maybe that could be important?
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 08:16 PM
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well i tried using TB cleaner while turning it over and it didnt help so i think i can rule out fuel being the cause, so then i went to work with the volt meter and found that i had -3 volts from dist. cap to No.1 plug wire ... so then i checked coil to dist. cap and it was 10-12 positive volts i switched out the new icm with the old one i took out but that didnt help
so what do yall think is it normal to have negative volts to plugs
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 09:02 PM
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Don't know about volts.

I have had a fuel & spark but no start. Caused by the computer flooding the engine due to a bad egr valve and/or egr valve position sensor.

You can try to crank it with the gas pedal floored and see if it tries to start. Computer shuts off injectors at WOT while cranking. Mine wouldn't keep running, but did try to run while doing that.

Have you checked computer codes? That is really the first thing you should do with a fuel injected vehicle. Info on how to do it is floating around. If you don't know how, search, and you should be able to find it.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2004 | 11:14 PM
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ok i tried to check codes but the check engine light would not flash nor would the voltmeter it just went steady at 12 volts

i hooked a two prong plug to the no. 2 slot on the pentagon shaped eec test plug and the voltmeter to the no. 4 slot (one down and one left of no. 2)
is this not right?i tried alot of combinations and couldnt get a thing
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 08:12 AM
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well i did get the codes to work
all i got was a 67 and system pass the 67 is for the neutral switch and the mlp i think
would the neutral switch let it turn over but not start?
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 08:41 AM
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I think you need to start over on setting the initial timing on this engine. Do you have a book on the truck? If so look up intitial timing and follow the steps
Clint
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 09:07 AM
  #14  
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ive set timing it is atleast close enough to start
but being that it didnt start over any of the range of timings i tried i am doubting its the problem and i have a hayes been reading it alot lately

i am getting desprerate i hafta have the truck running well in a week from this morning and i am SO not wanting to go to a shop

here is the current conditions
i dont think it is the ecu because it didnt give me codes for it and i believe that it would if it was bad or wasnt getting sufficient power
i dont think its fuel because i hear the pump, checked pressure, tried to start it with TB cleaner
i dont think its timing because i tried a whole bunch of settings and im 90% sure i have it set pretty close right now
i dont think it is compression because it was runnin fine monday
i dont think it is timing chain because the timing i set is holding
i dont think its the icm because i replaced it and tried swaping for a different one it didnt help
plugs wires and cap are new

so now im down to the coil and rotor in the ign. system, plugged cats, or maybe somehow antifreeze is leaking into the cylinders

anything else i should add to the list?? oh and i am gonna try Cloim's idea as soon as i get a chance maybe i'll get lucky

i cant tell yall enough how much help yall have been
 
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Old Aug 13, 2004 | 12:58 PM
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It is hard to help if you do not follow suggestions. I can almost bet $$ that if you would do what I suggested in your other thread, your engine will start right up.

You said the engine ran before you started messing with the timing... from what I gather, you set the balancer pointer to 10 BTDC, then pulled the distributor up and moved it so the rotor contact was pointing at #1 plug wire.

If I were you, I would want to be 100% sure that the timing is correct, not 90%....

Pull the #1 spark plug out of the engine... Set the balancer pointer to 0 TDC... Stick your screwdriver into the spark plug hole... Is the piston all the way up?? Look at which spark plug tower on the cap the rotor contact is pointing to... Is it directly under #1??

The CORRECT way is to have the balancer pointer set at 0 TDC, the #1 piston all the way up, and your rotor contact pointing directly under the #1 plug tower on the cap.

I am sure if you do these things and post back with the results, someone will be in a better position to help out....
 
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