fuel + spark =... nothing?
but it wont start it doenst even try hard a little backfiring never catches though
so i checked fuel pressure 32psi at rail there was a little smoke coming from somewhere under the hood while trying to start it but i did not find any antifreeze in oil or anything i dont know where its comin from but there was hardly enough to see
could it be something simple? i keep checking to see if maybe i left something unpluged but i cant find anything
any help would be appreciated
im under the impression that the light comes on when current goes through the wire and if current goes thru the wire then there had to be spark or the plug would hafta be fouled the plugs are 3 weeks old and it was runnin fine before i started to mess with the timing
fuel pressure is in the 30-40psi range and ticks (meaning the injectors are working?)
i checked firing order incase i mixed it up when reinstalling everything is in order
is the timing light not suffecient way to check spark? could i have gotten a bad icm? from reading other threads maybe it could be the eec relay??
what would it mean if i had weak spark?
i have let it sit all nite and all morning and im gonna use some intake cleaner and see if it will crank this afternoon
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i carefully manually set the rotor to contact no. 1 plug at 10btc but when i tried to crank it the light showed No. 1 firing late (about 5-10atc) so i turned the dist. and got it right on but no starting
thought maybe that could be important?
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so what do yall think is it normal to have negative volts to plugs
I have had a fuel & spark but no start. Caused by the computer flooding the engine due to a bad egr valve and/or egr valve position sensor.
You can try to crank it with the gas pedal floored and see if it tries to start. Computer shuts off injectors at WOT while cranking. Mine wouldn't keep running, but did try to run while doing that.
Have you checked computer codes? That is really the first thing you should do with a fuel injected vehicle. Info on how to do it is floating around. If you don't know how, search, and you should be able to find it.
i hooked a two prong plug to the no. 2 slot on the pentagon shaped eec test plug and the voltmeter to the no. 4 slot (one down and one left of no. 2)
is this not right?i tried alot of combinations and couldnt get a thing
but being that it didnt start over any of the range of timings i tried i am doubting its the problem and i have a hayes been reading it alot lately
i am getting desprerate i hafta have the truck running well in a week from this morning and i am SO not wanting to go to a shop
here is the current conditions
i dont think it is the ecu because it didnt give me codes for it and i believe that it would if it was bad or wasnt getting sufficient power
i dont think its fuel because i hear the pump, checked pressure, tried to start it with TB cleaner
i dont think its timing because i tried a whole bunch of settings and im 90% sure i have it set pretty close right now
i dont think it is compression because it was runnin fine monday
i dont think it is timing chain because the timing i set is holding
i dont think its the icm because i replaced it and tried swaping for a different one it didnt help
plugs wires and cap are new
so now im down to the coil and rotor in the ign. system, plugged cats, or maybe somehow antifreeze is leaking into the cylinders
anything else i should add to the list?? oh and i am gonna try Cloim's idea as soon as i get a chance maybe i'll get lucky
i cant tell yall enough how much help yall have been
You said the engine ran before you started messing with the timing... from what I gather, you set the balancer pointer to 10 BTDC, then pulled the distributor up and moved it so the rotor contact was pointing at #1 plug wire.
If I were you, I would want to be 100% sure that the timing is correct, not 90%....
Pull the #1 spark plug out of the engine... Set the balancer pointer to 0 TDC... Stick your screwdriver into the spark plug hole... Is the piston all the way up?? Look at which spark plug tower on the cap the rotor contact is pointing to... Is it directly under #1??
The CORRECT way is to have the balancer pointer set at 0 TDC, the #1 piston all the way up, and your rotor contact pointing directly under the #1 plug tower on the cap.
I am sure if you do these things and post back with the results, someone will be in a better position to help out....



