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Put the clamp mod. on...Runs like a bat out of H*ll for 5 seconds, check engine light comes on, falls to below stock. does not go off. When the light is on, runs just sluggish of stock. I can make it about 3 or so miles without the light coming on if I baby it. but that only gets me 3 or so miles. If I hit 2.5k rpm..instant light. If I keep it under 2k, I can go about 3 mile before the light comes on.
clamp mod is a big waste of time imho!
Welcome to the boards fastg60 were glad to have you. Do a search on the clamp and you will find ample posts about it. In my opinion the 10k mod is much more simple. If your new to mods I would sugest it.
kinda leary to go to the 10k mod. The clamp was bunk. Will the 10k be bunk as well? Any problems with check/lights? How bad is the Idle? whats the power difference between 10k and the crap? oops, I mean clamp.
anybody notice all these little critters on the right side of the screen when you post a reply? That green one kinda freaks me out!
i've done some reading, sounds like the 10k with a idle switch of some kind, and maybe if you're tricky enough, a potientometer (sp?) to let you adjust the resistance (3.9k-10k, right?) is the best route? the clamp is more involved with less than satisfactory results?
I had the same problem with the clamp mod, so I went back to the 10k mod. I dont have any complaints with the 10k mod. My idle barely seems affected, only when u let off the gas while cruising, and it goes to idle, it sounds like it has a cam, and then its normal. Maybe went up like 200 RPM.
I did the 10k mod with a 10k linear potentiometer and a 4.7k 1/4watt resistor in series. Also added a switch to the pot to allow me to shut the mod off. It works well anywhere between OFF & 60% (about 9k resistance); beyond that, it bucks & snorts & runs like crap. Cost was about 8 bucks at the local Radio Shack.